Need some advice on 2019 Mazda Machine Gray Metallic paint correction

I don`t compound cars much anymore, the cars I have owned for the last 8 plus years were corrected via Meguiars Microfiber system back in the day. I do not not have any of the Megs MF system pads or compounds/polishes/finishing waxes anymore, and have been using Buff & Shine pads, and backing plates for the last 5 plus years. I try my best to avoid marring and my cars usually only need a light polish or all in one once a year to keep them 90% defect free.

Back in April I purchased a 2019 Mazda 6 Touring CPO. As is typical of dealers, she was all glazed up, so it was very difficult to see the true condition of the paint (not that it would have mattered given the current used car pricing in the USA). The color is Machine Gray Metallic. It was a leased car that was apparently run through the brushed car wash on a weekly basis :o, numerous brush marks, rids, and just generally scuffed up with tics when you look at it under the light. My 1st test spot was Griots Complete Polish on a B&S 5.5" green polishing pad, speed 4 on MY GG6. It brought out some gloss, but didn`t do much to correct. I then tried the same polish on a B&S 5.5" light orange cutting pad, tried both speed 4, and speed 5. Still not getting the tic marks out. I then stepped up to Griots Complete Compound on another B&S orange light cutting pad, speed 5. It did get out more defects, but still left the annoying tic marks and some haze. I played around with arm speed, pressure, machine speed, number of passes, still can`t get rid of the tics.

I have since ordered and received some B&S Uro-fiber pads. Any suggestions on these? I do have Meguiars M100 available to me if needed. The clear coat on this car seems soft to scratch, but not soft to repair. I would welcome anyone`s thoughts/advice/or even a good swag at this point.

I know the polishing pad and polish will clean up any haze, it is the annoying tics and brush strokes from the car wash that are giving me trouble. Thanks.

First, I would remind you that Mazda paint, while beautiful, is very thin so be careful. I would suggest getting a paint thickness gauge before going too far.

I use the Uro-Tec pads but haven’t used Uro-Fiber as I went with the Rupes Blue Coarse Wool. I wouldn’t switch to a coarse fiber pad as well as a coarser compound, I’d continue with GCC first before going to M100. But I also wouldn’t correct long without a thickness gauge. A tic mark is much better than going through the clearcoat.

Thanks for the information. Yes, Mazda cars certainly do not have much clear coat. I was not planning on breaking out the M100, and in fact after watching some YouTube videos, was thinking about the Uro-Fiber pads with the complete polish , speed 4, light pressure, and slow arm speed to see what they will do. I remember reading some years ago about soft clears need a more delicate approach, not sure if it was Mike Stoops over at MOL, or Mike Phillips on AutoGeek online. I tried searching both forums but could not find it.

That sounds like a good plan. I’ve never used Correcting Cream but love Fast Correcting Cream. Try to identify a mix of medium and deep ticks that you want to correct and focus on maybe 80-90% correction to remove the medium imperfections and reduce but maybe not eliminate the worst imperfections.

And yes, clears are extremely thin and you have to be careful, especially on body lines/edges. On the flip side, even moderately aggressive polishing removes very little clear. But without a paint gauge, there is no good way to tell.

I would take it easy, which would be one complete pass of 4 strokes (cover ~2x2 area left to right once and then up and down once and then repeat for 4 passes). If that makes an improvement but not quite there then try another pass of 4 strokes. If that doesn’t work, try a little more aggressive pad and/or compound. Like you said, light pressure to let the machine/pad/compound do the work and move slowly (inch per sec).

Last tip, if you do use the Uro Fiber pads is that if you can blow them out with compressed air, that is even better for cleaning (fiber pads) than a pad brush and it also cools down the pad better.

I purchased 8 of the pads, so I will trade them off to allow them to cool. I no longer have air to blow them out so will be using a pad brush. At this point, I will wait until September when the weather is much, much cooler. Nothing worse than detailing in the heat and humidity. Thanks for the information, I really appreciate your recommendations.