Another check engine P103 need advice.

I am back sooner than I want to be bothering you all again. Sorry any inconvenience to those that do this as a living. I’m sure this is the last thing you want to do at end of your day. Sincerely thank you all in advance!!!
code is P103 which indicates high voltage in MAF sensor. I deleted it and has not come immediately back on which I understand does not mean a grounding or short issue. It will come back on in 25-50 miles. Also cleaned MAF to rule that out.

I have researched and Best I could understand is I either have to replace the MAF sensor or have alternator going bad and raising voltage randomly.

Idel is smooth, starts up smoothly and engine running well, no drop in power or mpg 2013 Ford Edge 3.5 engine. Has normal mileage for 10 year old car.

I am far from a mechanic but I enjoy tinkering and learning about automotive problems and trying to fix my vehicle in driveway.

If you haven`t already, join a Ford Edge forum and ask your question there. I have had great luck with vehicle specific message boards helping diagnose common problems.

As soon as I bought my Camaro, I joined the Camaro-5 forums. I`ve learned A LOT about my car and some of the tips and tricks you need to know. As well as common issues and fixes

My usual quick check for TSB`s for common issues came up empty.

Searching the fault in our repair program, it shows other technicians that have had that fault have most often repaired it by replacing the MAF as you mention.

Just for due diligence - Have you had the intake/s off for any service? Check it over and make sure that there are no obvious torn hoses/vacuum leaks.

Another thing you can try is a Volumetric Efficiency Test, take a read of this:

https://atleducation.org/wp-content/...%207.21.18.pdf

Confession, I didn`t read the whole thing but it gets into the how-to around page 8. Basically you`re checking the plausibility of the numbers your MAF is reporting.

FWIW, from personal experience and observations of folks who have tried, I`ve never seen any gain from cleaning a MAF. They function by way of heating a wire element to measure air flow, and I think if the wrong kinda junk gets burned on there it`s game over.

Another sensor on the list where I`d only go genuine/original equipment manufacturer (Hitachi/denso/etc) and avoid any parts store brands.

Good luck!

Random question. What type of air filter are you using?

I`ve heard of the reusable "wet" filters like K&N`s fouling MAF`s and throwing codes if too much of the fluid is applied. If you`re using one of those, maybe you`re cleaning the MAF and promptly fouling it again?

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Originally Posted by Desertnate

Random question. What type of air filter are you using?

I`ve heard of the reusable "wet" filters like K&N`s fouling MAF`s and throwing codes if too much of the fluid is applied. If you`re using one of those, maybe you`re cleaning the MAF and promptly fouling it again?

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excellent question. The one time I had a MAF go bad was shortly after cleaning then re oiling my K&N filter. Replacing the sensor fixed the issue. When mine went bad I had severe drivability issues though as it’s the main source for info on how much air is going into the engine. I was able to just unplug the sensor and the engine ran OK without it (used the readings from the MAP sensor instead). All was well after replacing the MAF sensor. This was on a ‘00 impala

William-Wallace:
What specific diagnostic tool/code reader-scanner are you using to connect to the On-Board Diagnostic Port/Connector??
Was it difficult to learn to use?

I am NOT a mechanic at all, BUT it sounds like you use this tool a lot to give you an idea of what may be wrong with your 2013 Ford Edge.
I ask because it seem like a good tool to have for even a novice Do-It-Yourselfer/Shade-Tree Mechanic to have and use to get a ball-park diagnosis of electronic intake, fuel injection, and emission sensors and systems BEFORE you go to a third-party service/repair mechanic or Ford dealership.

By the way, I had to look up(Google search) what "MAF" stands for and what it does. The Mass Air Flow Sensor is akin to jets on a carburetor, and as the name implies, measures the amount of air coming into the fuel system and determines how much gas is required for optimum performance and reduced emissions based on the gas petal input/throttle position

I can see how reuseable K&N air filters that are oversprayed with their special "dirt-trapping" filter media oil could possibly "clog" or "coat" this sensor.

FYI, for those so inclined to clean a MAF, I also found out from my search to use MAF-specific spray cleaners (Yes, they are labeled as such!) and NOT to touch the sensor or clean it with clothes or cotton swabs (Q-tips), which it what I would mistakenly do. (Told you I am NOT a mechanic)

Lonnie, code readers are pretty cheap today, a zillion brands, and easy to use...of course that is coming from someone who used to stick a paper clip into the GM ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link) and count the check engine light flashes, way before there was OBD, much less OBD II.

EDIT: Sorry, that was a little bit of a flippant response. It looks like you can get a pretty nice one today for under $50. An important thing to look for is the ability to get updated data, most of them today have a USB port so you can connect to your computer and update for newer vehicles, you have to see if you get that for free, and if the company is going to be around and/or support that model in the future, caveat emptor and all that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lonnie

William-Wallace:
What specific diagnostic tool/code reader-scanner are you using to connect to the On-Board Diagnostic Port/Connector??
Was it difficult to learn to use?

I am NOT a mechanic at all, BUT it sounds like you use this tool a lot to give you an idea of what may be wrong with your 2013 Ford Edge.
I ask because it seem like a good tool to have for even a novice Do-It-Yourselfer/Shade-Tree Mechanic to have and use to get a ball-park diagnosis of electronic intake, fuel injection, and emission sensors and systems BEFORE you go to a third-party service/repair mechanic or Ford dealership.

By the way, I had to look up(Google search) what "MAF" stands for and what it does. The Mass Air Flow Sensor is akin to jets on a carburetor, and as the name implies, measures the amount of air coming into the fuel system and determines how much gas is required for optimum performance and reduced emissions based on the gas petal input/throttle position

I can see how reuseable K&N air filters that are oversprayed with their special "dirt-trapping" filter media oil could possibly "clog" or "coat" this sensor.

FYI, for those so inclined to clean a MAF, I also found out from my search to use MAF-specific spray cleaners (Yes, they are labeled as such!) and NOT to touch the sensor or clean it with clothes or cotton swabs (Q-tips), which it what I would mistakenly do. (Told you I am NOT a mechanic)

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Lonnie, if you are looking around, check out the BlueDriver. It works on most makes and has a great UI. I’m a bit of a DIY level scan too junkie. The BlueDriver is super easy to use and has a nice integration to a probable cause database. As you may be aware, codes don’t necessarily tell which part is broken, just which part isn’t operating within expected parameters. Oxygen sensors are routinely replaced due to bad codes but often enough that problem is somewhere else.

Thanks folks. I have a foxwell cheap plug scanner. It is very basic. Also I do have a K&N that was excellent point took out and cleaned lightly re oiled and hit craftsman blower to try to get excess oil out. I’ve cleaned with Crc maf. Cleaned connector pins put on dielectrical grease and gave it a good pep talk.


I also had the whole air box out a month ago when I replaced a thermostat I’ll check the whole air intake maybe something is loose

Thank you very much for assistance.

Here is update, code popped back up I took it for diagnosing. They told me alternator was on its way out so I did that replacement on Memorial Day I ordered from rock auto grabbed a belt too think it was a gates brand serpentine. Took me awhile over 4 hours and was difficult since my skill level is at noob or lower. You mechanics out there have a incredibly tough job. Your probably very good at problem solving.

so far so good alternator was maybe $150 plus $25 back for core exchange.