Alleged ceramic coating withstands sanding and is still there Angel Wax

Found this interesting video about Angel wax genesis coating.... this guys claiming and alleges the coating is still doing well after he sands and compounds and it’s not coming off. Which sounds like bologna and it’s just the fresh clear coat beading water.

but I have heard from other detail shops that Angel wax legacy leaves a thick durable layer on the paint. I have not tried it but it has been something I’ve hear mentioned “. It was also discussed the beading was only average to below average as the con, and pro is your getting a thicker build/substantial layer.

Has anyone used it or considered trying.

Then I came across this video

https://youtu.be/htjnUuUgH3Y

Interesting indeed. I don’t see how it’s possible. The beading leftover does look better than any smooth, bare clear coat I’ve noticed before but who knows.

I almost figure this claim could be considered a con. Imagine screwing up the application or deciding the beading performance isn’t your cup of tea? I guess a topper is your only non-extreme option at that point?

Good find. I had been interested in AW coatings (Legacy but also read about Genesis) awhile back but never went through with it.

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Originally Posted by William_Wallace

Has anyone used it or considered trying.

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Trying the sanding part??

probably not

I know what you mean- I was just being stupid

Huh, wonder if it did (actually) penetrate down into the paint...gee, I *assume* that would cause issues for paint/body repairs.

IF it really does that ;) Hey, it`s the internet...

It may very well penetrate into the paint but removing it probably depends on how good a shop is at removing. I once had a shop complain they had a hard time removing Liquid Glass from my finish. That kinda deflated my confidence in them as a good shop and lo and behold, a few years later the respray they applied flaked away from the bottom of the rear bumper so it depends on how good the shop really is at dealing with and applying chemicals and paint.

Thanks for the post, William_Wallace ! Happy New Year !!

I don`t know... Watched the video...Looked at the machine used, could not understand what was that - Swedish? - to know what grit if that was what he had on the pad, but it did not look aggressive..

The thing about this and ALL products applied to the paint, is that as far as I know, there is no definitive way to actually "see", "detect", the product applied to the paintwork and then, be able to see it "going away", right???
So, if this is the case, this video meant exactly what??

All I can tell you is that if I put my Makita Rotary on ANY paintwork, with a compound, if I want to, I can easily remove ALL of whatever is on the surface, and if I press down hard enough, long enough, I can even start removing the top layer of clearcoat easily..

Having worked in automotive painting before, the only thing we ever had problems with was silicone anything, but there were lots of readily available solvents that took those products, grease, oil, etc., right off. I cannot remember ever having any of these silicone, grease, oil, etc., products ever "soaking down" into the paintwork, that it took extreme measures to get these products off the surface..

I read nowhere an article that talks about using various solvents on coatings, etc., to see if it removes them..

Yes, we look at how well the surface beads, etc., gloss, etc., and that is really the only indicator we have of how the surface just reacted to whatever we just did to it..

Perhaps, someday, those people in charge of Marketing anything and everything to the entire Detailing, Car Cleaning, Car Appreciation League, Wax-Wasters, of the entire Planet, may decide to help us with this little challenge we have here... :)

Happy New Ears to All !!!! :)
Dan F

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Originally Posted by Bill D

It may very well penetrate into the paint but removing it probably depends on how good a shop is at removing. I once had a shop complain they had a hard time removing Liquid Glass from my finish. That kinda deflated my confidence in them as a good shop and lo and behold, a few years later the respray they applied flaked away from the bottom of the rear bumper so it depends on how good the shop really is at dealing with and applying chemicals and paint.

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Bill D -
Hope you guys are all safe and well..
In all my experiences painting any flexible surface, I had to have the correct amount of "Flex Agent" product mixed well in the paint to help insure flexing of those plastic parts did not cause the paint surface to crack and flake off..
That might be one reason why this happened. Or perhaps that area of your vehicle was hit or rubbed on by another vehicle in a parking lot, etc., and that started the flaking process?

Happy New Year !
Dan F

Hi Dan

This was many years ago after my car got rear ended and needed a whole new back bumper. The paint that flaked off was located on the far bottom of that back bumper thankfully not visible from above or up close.

It was probably from a shoddy paint application process. This took place when I lived in NJ but to this day I get very nervous thinking about what might happen if I need body work like I did on that particular vehicle.

I think it depends on how strongly a product bonds to the paint surface as to whether it can be easily removed. Sanding will remove any product eventually.

Several years ago I used Zaino on the hood of my work van. Over a period of a couple years the clearcoat on the side started to chalk up. At this point the van was getting around 14 years old. The hood never chalked up. I was shocked. Fast forward several years and I read a claim by another manufacturer that claimed that UV protection can penetrate paint. I guess that`s true, that`s the only explanation I can think of because after 2 years the Zaino should have been long gone.

As I recall, Menzerna had a lot to say about contamination (primarily silicone) penetrating into the paint so badly as to cause serious issues no matter what you did.