Final LSP conundrum...

Previously had CSL and Exo on my Sepang Blue Audi S3 and after multiple Exo fails, Gtechniq finally replaced it, upgrading me to Ultra in the process.

My car has just been redone and looks great, as you may be aware, Exo V4`s peak performance is limited at best, it`s a 7/10 beader which is an issue for me as I air dry my car.

I was considering putting a topper immediately on and just struggling to decide what to do. My detailing friend suggested putting something like Cancoat over the top of a £200 coating would be crazy - on the other hand I really love the water behaviour. I also have an array of high-end maintenance products which offer that in the short term - PA Cosmic Spritz, KK Overcoat.

Live with the mediocre water behaviour and let the expensive coating do it`s thing?
Immediately top with a more substantial sacrificial/protective layer like Moonlight or Cancoat?
Use maintenance sprays as a more temporary measure to get the performance I want?

I`m just that sort of person who can`t be satisfied until my LSP `stack` ticks every box - but I don`t want to dilute the underlying look of a super expensive and sophisticated coating (Gtechniq Ultra).

Your opinions are appreciated.. been overthinking this for days!

I voted to use the PA, Overcoat style goodies. If you later decide you want the expensive coating “back”, these won’t last a year like Cancoat/Moonlight. Plus you could argue that you’re using expensive to top expensive. And they’ll possibly/probably make a better visual enhancement than Cancoat or Moonlight. They’ll be easier to apply. More fun factor. The coating itself is practical so add the fun in.
The main upside of Cancoat/Moonlight would be the extra protection like you mention, but let the $200 coating be the main protector and just have fun on top for looks and behavior.

Just my two cents. :). Fun questions!

When I had the CSL/EXO3 on my car the only thing I used regularly was PA HG even tho I did try overcoat but liked the HG better. Since my 500ml (been using for almost 3 years now) is almost gone yesterday I ordered the High Gloss paste wax to give a try.

Here is a shot of how that combination looked.
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...LDLXLTP-X3.jpg

Here is a picture I found that I took while washing 7 months after the coating application but not sure how long the High Gloss had been on at that time. You can see how well it is beading and I use a Milwaukee leaf blower to dry with myself and touch up with one drying towel after.

https://photos.smugmug.com/2017-10-2...8.09.47-XL.jpg

Can you go into detail about your Exo failures and what you mean by this? Also about drying your car are you sheet rinsing or still leaving a lot of water on the surface?

So to dry the car I normally sheet the majority of water off using an open hose then blow off / out the remainder with a dryer.

Sometimes I skip flooding the panels because I like seeing beads being quickly dispersed (how sad am I... but I guess safer than looking at my bonnet on a motorway ha!).

I don`t want to beat Exo up too much as Gtechniq have really looked after me and provided great aftercare. What I will say though is that I have found Exo to struggle to perform without topping over the course of a harsh winter - that`s pretty poor for a 18-24 month product marketed how it is. It`s not on it`s own, people have said the same about some Gyeon ceramic top coats (Skin is one - but at least it has incredible peak performance).

Exo has now been professionally applied to my car (this time over Ultra) 4 times including the original detail. I can`t comment on how it`s working this time as I`m yet to pick up the car. The first three `failures` - reduction of beading from 5 weeks in, sides of the car completely flooding after a month in winter - all supposedly due to a CSL issue which I hope has now been rectified. This could not be cured through using compatible Gtechniq decon products and has genuinely puzzled all concerned.

Regardless of whether it`s sorted now, I do believe I have seen (albeit for a short period before eventual deterioration) Exo V4`s peak performance and this does not come close to the self cleaning, water behaviour and slickness of other coatings. I was tempted to top Ultra with another product but figured it was no harm in having the extra protection of Exo and the option to top that.

I really don`t like the idea of topping the ceramic top coat to potentially top that with a maintenance product, but if that`s what I have to do to have an exceptional performing top coat so be it!

Sounds like you need to switch coatings based on the trouble you’re experiencing. A coating shouldn’t need a topper and should last multiple years with just an occasional decon wash.

I think half my problem is that I use high pH cleaners during the winter to remove road grime and dirt before laying a mitt on my paint.

The snow foam I use is between pHs 10 & 11, within the limit of what Exo V4 and Ultra can resist, however weekly or twice weekly hits in my experience does take it`s toll on a coating`s water behaviour over time.

Given my pre-wash regime I ended up opting for a more substantial `topper`, Gyeon Cancoat which I have used many times in the past with great results. I don`t intend to use any further toppers on it in the short term, only as and when required.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by atbalfour

I think half my problem is that I use high pH cleaners during the winter to remove road grime and dirt before laying a mitt on my paint.

The snow foam I use is between pHs 10 & 11, within the limit of what Exo V4 and Ultra can resist, however weekly or twice weekly hits in my experience does take it`s toll on a coating`s water behaviour over time.

Given my pre-wash regime I ended up opting for a more substantial `topper`, Gyeon Cancoat which I have used many times in the past with great results. I don`t intend to use any further toppers on it in the short term, only as and when required.

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I consider that pH only mildly alkaline and along with the dilution you get from a snowfoam I`d be severely disappointed if that made a dent in a coating even with weekly washes.

The only time I was satisfied w/ CSL (and really ended up liking it) was when I put Cancoat on top of it. It kinda retained the `richness` of the base CSL while vastly improving the water behavior. Added a nice bit of candy gloss to the CSL as well which was either real or all in my head.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by atbalfour

I think half my problem is that I use high pH cleaners during the winter to remove road grime and dirt before laying a mitt on my paint.

The snow foam I use is between pHs 10 & 11, within the limit of what Exo V4 and Ultra can resist, however weekly or twice weekly hits in my experience does take it`s toll on a coating`s water behaviour over time.

Given my pre-wash regime I ended up opting for a more substantial `topper`, Gyeon Cancoat which I have used many times in the past with great results. I don`t intend to use any further toppers on it in the short term, only as and when required.

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I use Mckee’s coating prep soap and Bilt Hamber auto foam on my car. BHAF every other week and once in a while sub in a wash with Mckee’s CP when i need a deep clean. Both Alkaline and Neither has affected performance of coating. In fact the perform better.


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