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Just like the title says, wondering if anyone has used this product on vehicles that have hydro dipped parts under the hood. I would think it would be fine, but better safe than sorry. I can obviously do a test spot, just trying to save a little time.
Interesting question. I’m a MotorKote fan but I gotta admit never considered that. As it is water soluble I’m betting it would be good to go but don’t hit the ground running on that suspicion.
Goid question and timing. Got parts hydrodipped I’m putting on in spring. Love to know if i can maintain with underhood maintenance or paint maintenance.
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Gues I’ll have to try it. It’s all Indianapolis Colts design so if I screw it up...oh well hahaha
What’s hydro dipped ?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_transfer_Quote:
Originally Posted by JSFM35X
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Some coil covers i had done
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It’s a film they put in water or some kind of solution then put it on whatever part is being done, let it dry and you have pieces like those sown above. You get a custom painted look at a fraction of the cost. I’ve never actually seen it done so if my explanation is a little off please correct me coatings=crack.
It`s kind of like the old time decals you used to put on plastic models, but married to custom computer printing (I think). Anthony Orosco does it, it`s in these threads (second one pictures don`t work any more):Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveT435
https://www.autopia.org/forums/click...ighlight=Hydro
https://www.autopia.org/forums/click-brag-the-detailers-showcase/176000-concours-auto-salon-white-caymans-transformed.html?highlight=hydro+dipping
It is custom computer printed designs on a film of some kind that is water soluble. I know it doesn’t hold up well to solvents. At least not acetone and the like. It’s huge in the hunting industry. Durability....ehhh it scratches real easy, and if it’s not done right (with proper prep) it can look horrendous. I’d be cautious for areas that come in contact with a lot of heat. It would probably cause the film to fail / melt / wrinkle / etc
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Sorry posted wrong link. If hydro dipping is done right it is no different than paint.
They put a base coat in my case it was white.
The use a tank of water and place the film in it.
The then release an activator into the tank which make film transferable.
The dip the parts into the tank and film adheres to the product.
Product dries.
They then spray clear or paint to color. Sometimes color is in film. Mine was black and white.
Mine was sprayed with house of colors candy paint. I think he said 3-5 coats of clear i cant remember.
This should hold up to 400 degrees. It is like any other painted surface.
It will hold up to scratches, solvents and anything else just like the paint on your car as it is clear coated.
Cost wise it is more than having your parts just painted as your adding hydro dip step.
Just like paint you can get Maaco quality work. You can even buy activator in cans and do some back yard stuff in a bucket.
Most who do cheap use a cheap base, then hydrodip. Maybe a coat of clear. Yea if dipped and not cleared the film scratches easily.
I spent around $400 for prep, all paints and labor. Could got a Earl Shieb paint for $100-150. Ill polish and ceramic coat before installing.
Just like to know if i can clean with apc 1-10 like rest of engine. Guessing to treat just like paint but if someone has done before would love to hear your maintenance routine.
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Hmmm, the clear coat make sense sense for added durability. I could be very wrong with this next statement....I’ve bought a lot or compound bows that were hydro-dipped / filmed. I can’t recall a time where I have felt or seen clear applied over top. Hence my saying durability wasn’t the greatest. But the again when you are dragging a compound bow through the brush, trees, mountains, etc your not thinking of durability of the finish....just hoping you don’t snag any of the fibers for the string set, or drop the bow and break it. I also know I wouldn’t want a clear over it because if any shiny reflection.Quote:
Originally Posted by Coatings=crack
But your right a properly applied clear should help act as a sacrificial layer for the film underneath
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Thank you. I’ve seen some work from this place before seems to be high quality. They do most of the work for the local car club. Now that you mention it I do remember that the parts get clear coated afterward, so they’ll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Coatings=crack
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They have matt clears they can spray and I’m sure some will dip and leave as that. Camo dip has the colors in actual film so they could probably get away aith it although not as durable. I don’t believe ive seen any gun manufacturers ship factory pieces dipped. Not sure about bows. Alot of camo is not dipped but a sort of heat shrink wrap. Also alot of wrapping similar to cars.... paints gonna be a goner in 20 yearsQuote:
Originally Posted by Astouffer512