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IMO, even though APEX DETAIL says they are neck and neck with each other, I have to give the nod to Turtle Wax because of the "rinse off" ability. To me, this says that the compound is water-based which means any residue left behind is easily removed, minimizing any conflicts with the LSP you`re putting on next.
Thoughts?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_og3CEM64H8https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_og3CEM64H8
I`m up for trying some, I like the idea that it washes off.
They said "washes off.." about the Malm`s Polish I used in the `80s...sorta worked but not really. I`ll be interested to hear how it goes with the TW.
Noting that, NO, I didn`t watch that `tube :o ...if it compares with UC I gather it`s basically a bit milder than M105, and not in the M101 class, right?
What`s the concern regarding LSP? Won`t it get followed by a Finish Polish anyhow?
Oh, and is this a diminishing-abrasive product?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
According to the video, which I did watch (LOL), not only did they test cut, but finish as well and what I saw was a LSP-ready surface. I know the Meguiar`s UC has a lot of "Trade Secret" polishing oils which can hinder some LSPs. From what I`ve experienced, my new favorite LSP (Seal N Shine) doesn`t like an oily/waxy surface so Megs would need more surface prep (a heavier or more intense IPA wipedown) than the ICE Speed Compound would to get rid of the excess oils on the surface.
Maybe I`m not seeing it correctly, but it would seem to me that a non or LESS oily compound would be easier to work with as far as removing the oily residue that MIGHT hamper some LSPs.
As soon as I find it locally, I DO want to try the ICE compound, it`s kind of stuck in my head about product lines working better with each other than `mixing and matching` brands (must be a hold over from using Meg`s and hearing all the time about product "compatibility" within brands).
OR PERHAPS ... I`m completely off base, It`s late (for me) and I`m ready for bed.
Don- Yeah, the whole Polishing Oils Issue is a big deal for some of us, they drive me nuts. And FWIW I never had good results trying to strip Meguiar`s TSO with IPA, not even *close* to effective IME.
But I`ve never had any issues with a *Meguiar`s* LSP (or anything from Collinite IIRC) bonding to Polishing Oils (just have issues with how it looks once those oils dissipate). That`s one upside of the compatibility of known-OK combos.
FWIW though, I hardly *EVER* stick with one line from start to finish. Heh heh, part of that is related to the LSPs I use coming from companies whose abrasives/etc. I *don`t* use (if they even exist). Sure won`t flame you for keeping it all in the family though!
I dunno about that kind of product finishing out OK. Noting that I never trust *anything* of that nature that I "see" (scare-quotes intentional) online, I`ve never even been satisfied with how M205 finishes out IRL (IRL = in conditions where I can do a proper first-hand inspection), and I was using it on hard paint. The idea of a *compound* finishing OK just doesn`t work for me (check it out under magnification and the right lighting and I bet it`ll be a horror show) and once the TSO dissipate (or I strip them) I almost always see residual artifacts.
So, Accumulator, what you are saying about Meg`s M205 and their Trade Secret Oils (TSOs) are that they act as a "filler" for the microscopic swirls from the abrasive action on the surface finish in addition to acting as a lubricant and emulsifier/carrier for the abrasives. I see oils as a much better lubricant than water for most abrasives, but that is the trade off is what is left behind and hence the reason many detailers use a panel wipe of some sort (like iso-propyl alcohol) to remove those oils OR they wash a vehicle again after correcting and polishing to remove any traces of abrasives and the suspension agent (oil or water-based) from the surface.
TSOs are OK until they pose a compatibility-issue with a Last-Step Product (LSP) that is not engineered/designed to work with the TSOs and cause smears or hazing, like I found out with Autoglyms Hi-Definition Wax on a black GM truck that was not wiped down with a paint prep after polishing with M205. Since then it has become standard operating procedure to wipe with IPA to avoid any complications from other manufacturer`s LSP incompatibility. I suppose some car-care manufacturer will say "stay within our product line" to avoid those problems.
By the way ,if you are looking for suggestions for M105/M205 compound and polish alternatives, please see the thread I started:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...tml?highlight=
Or comments about the new M110/M210 see:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...tml?highlight=
Lonnie- The filling from the M205`s TSO was only a real issue on plastics. On paint, they`re just a huge PIA to get off and can make for psuedo-holograms (under some conditions, probably like what you experienced with the Autoglym) and, what really bugged me, once they dissipated I realized how much of the "great look" was the result of the oils rather than a nice-enough job of polishing.
Every single time I tried following M205 with one of my other Finishing Polishes, I got a significant improvement and that`s despite kinda hoping I would *not* as I`m stuck with nearly a gallon of M205 that I`ll never use :o
And again, I had terrible luck trying to strip those TSO with IPA, not even *close* to effective compared to PrepWash. When ScottWax/others posted about how those TSO aren`t any issue for him at all, I could only shake my head and think "glad you`re not having my problems".
Yeah, I realize my experience/opinion on this one differs from that of many others.