Originally Posted by
Oneheadlite
So I can’t say I’m 100% new to paint correction, but it’s been more years than I’d like to admit since I was last able to really put pads to paint. The biggest thing I’ve realized is that I don’t think I’ve done any real correction since I’ve started on the forums here and AG.
When I was doing corrections, I was working off of the info I’d read that came with my polisher. To be perfectly honest, looking back I feel like I was mainly going through the motions of the process vs putting thought into things like test-spots and really focusing on results. Heck, I didn’t even know back then about proper pad count etiquette (these were the Griot’s Machine Polish 1-4 and 6” thick foam pad days... Shoot- now I’ve really dated when the last time I really polished was! :ph34r:)
Since being on here, I’ve added to my arsenal. I’ve also collected myself into a LSP conundrum, but that’s a subject for another thread...
What I’m working with (Yes, I’m a Griot’s fanboy...): BOSS Fast Correcting, Correcting, and Perfecting Cream. I’ve also got their complete compound, but I’m not sure where that would fit in needs wise with the BOSS creams on hand.
BOSS Microfiber Pads (the ones with the red foam), BOSS Correcting Pads, BOSS Perfecting pads. Microfiber fast finishing pads (the thicker ones). Also have the Red Foam and Black Foam pads. Most pads are 5.5”, but I do have some 6.5’s as well. GG6 and GG3 polishers.
Unfortunately, a big factor of being away from paint correction is lacking the time required to do it. So, I’m now looking at the project with a different view - I need to work as efficiently as possible so I stand the best chance to get the job done.
Questions:
Foam Pad priming - I used to lightly butter the pads, then add small dots to reload. Is this still the way to go?
It can be, if that`s what has worked for you, stick with it.
Microfiber Pad priming - My understanding is these need to be buttered, then same reload process? I don’t have air at home, but I do have a pad brush to clean/stand up the pads.
MF pads do not have to be buttered, but it does help. Just butter them once. A Terry towel will help keep them clean. As far as keeping the pads clean, I like to use one pad per panel, and then switch to a clean one.
Machine Speed/Pressure - Back in the day, I would mark the backing plate, then usually polish at speed 5 (sometimes 6), applying enough pressure to slow down the rotation. This was with the thick pads. My brief experience with the thin pads, the machine is happy to really spin those things with the speed dial that high.
Keep the machine speed down, 4 at the highest. If you need more cut, switch to a more aggressive pad or polish, or both.
Is downward pressure as important, or should I take the long throw approach of letting the pad travel with less pressure and less speed (say 4?)?
Let the weight of the machine do the work, keep speed no higher than four.
Passes - I know this will vary wildly based on condition/other factors, but How many should I expect to start with? Am I better off trying to do fewer passes with Fast Correcting Cream, or do more passes with the Correcting Cream since it’s milder? I’m not going for 100% correction - they’re both Daily Driver’s. Time allowing, My plan is to chase the correcting phase with Perfecting Cream to try to best refine the gloss.
If need to do three passes with CC and could do the same amount of work with one pass of FCC, why wouldn`t you do the one pass? Considering you`re removing the same amount of material. With skinning a cat, there are many ways to do it, as long as we get it done, right? Experience is the best teacher, a good place start would be to follow the instructions on the back of the Griot`s bottles. Least aggressive approach first.
The cars are both Audis, so I’m anticipating harder clear. They both have had paintwork though, so I’ll be mindful of watching for differences.
With modern cars, paint work can be negligible as certain parts are now being painted off site from the production line. You could run into a scenario where the different panels require approach adjustments, with all factory paint.
I know, pretty Newbie stuff. But, instead of bumbling through, I’d rather ask you folks on here (especially with the time crunch). I’m much more of a read-advice person than the type to surf on YouTube.
In today`s world, there aren`t many places publishing written articles on correction. YT offers material in a condensed format that could literally take pages to explain on a forum.
Thanks in advance!
