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Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
I am once again reaching out to my fellow Autopians suggestions on which ferrous iron removers they prefer, any experience and methodologies they have in using them, and any comparisons they may have been different manufacturers of these iron removers.
I do have some question concerning their use:
1) Do they take the place of 3-step decontamination washes, like that from ValuGard or Finish Kare?
2) Can they be used in conjunction with a clay bay, and if so, how is that done?
3) Is this iron decontamination done before a vehicle wash, with a vehicle wash, or after a vehicle wash?
I ask this because occasionally I detail newer vehicles that seem to have an excessive amount of iron present which is especially noticeable on light colored vehicles. My "traditional" method has been to clay the vehicle and then polish it to remove marring that occurs from the somewhat aggressive "rubbing" required to remove such contaminants. My reason for asking about ferrous decontamination chemicals is to see if excessive claying could be reduced by "properly" using such a chemical or if this ferrous decontamination chemical is a better way to remove iron completely and more effectively time-wise and effort-wise. I assume some work better than others or some may be more coast-effective, hence my question about the comparisons of those manufacturers at the beginning.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions and opinions from your experiences.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Hi Lonnie,
Like some others, I prefer the lower cost options of Iron Removers. I`ve tried 4 so far and all are effective in removing iron. Of course, there may be some YMMV with this, or even personal preference.
- IronX by CarPro is just way too stinky for me. I won`t buy it again
- Gyeon Iron is one that I would buy again. Doesn`t stink as bad and is effective
- 3D BDX is a tad stinkier than Gyeon, and about the same effectiveness. I picked up a gallon on sale.
- Wolfgang`s new Iron Remover doesn`t smell as bad either, and works pretty fast. A bit pricey, though.
1) Not sure. Accumulator knows about those better than me.
2) I`ve done that once, and the iron remover tore through the clay bar. it`s possible, but you will need additional clay bar, depending on how bad the contamination is. However, Britemax Claymax is supposed to chemical resistant.
3) I tend to do it before a vehicle wash. Different schools of thought on this.
In my experience, I have found that mechanical decon following the chemical does make for a faster process. If I plan to clay, I definitely try and use iron removers.
Here`s a link to a process I used recently with decent success. Iron Remover, followed by wash, with a clay mitt mixed into the wash process. The clay step wasn`t aggressive and therefore added some time. But then, time was saved in that I didn`t have to polish out any marring.
https://www.autopia.org/forums/detai...tml?highlight=
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JustJesus
Hi Lonnie,
Like some others, I prefer the lower cost options of Iron Removers. I`ve tried 4 so far and all are effective in removing iron. Of course, there may be some YMMV with this, or even personal preference.
- IronX by CarPro is just way too stinky for me. I won`t buy it again
- Gyeon Iron is one that I would buy again. Doesn`t stink as bad and is effective
- 3D BDX is a tad stinkier than Gyeon, and about the same effectiveness. I picked up a gallon on sale.
- Wolfgang`s new Iron Remover doesn`t smell as bad either, and works pretty fast. A bit pricey, though.
1) Not sure. Accumulator knows about those better than me.
2) I`ve done that once, and the iron remover tore through the clay bar. it`s possible, but you will need additional clay bar, depending on how bad the contamination is. However, Britemax Claymax is supposed to chemical resistant.
3) I tend to do it before a vehicle wash. Different schools of thought on this.
In my experience, I have found that mechanical decon following the chemical does make for a faster process. If I plan to clay, I definitely try and use iron removers.
Here`s a link to a process I used recently with decent success. Iron Remover, followed by wash, with a clay mitt mixed into the wash process. The clay step wasn`t aggressive and therefore added some time. But then, time was saved in that I didn`t have to polish out any marring.
https://www.autopia.org/forums/detai...tml?highlight=
1. Iron-X is the most effective, but most expensive.
2. Meguiar`s Ultimate All Wheel Cleaner is by far the most inexpensive and covers the most area with it being somewhat of a jell and its wide sprayer.
3. 3D BDX is the most effective when it comes to buying the gallon size.
If money was no option for me, I would be buying the Iron-X every single time. To me they all stink, so I am not going to play the game of which one stinks less when they are ALL undesirable. If had the use for a gallon, I would love to get my hands on Meguiar`s new D1801, which is supposed to be more of a jell than ULT AWC and stronger, too.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
I use Griot’s iron and fallout remover, as for agitation I use the ergo wave sponge. I’ve used it both in the pump up foamer and with the foam cannon depending on how much surface to cover. As far as odor, very minimal.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike lambert
I use Griot’s iron and fallout remover, as for agitation I use the ergo wave sponge. I’ve used it both in the pump up foamer and with the foam cannon depending on how much surface to cover. As far as odor, very minimal.
Mike:
Your point about application methodology for the area being covered is well taken. I was assuming that a good hand sprayer would suffice, BUT if one is covering the entire vehicle, that may be a stretch to accomplish by a hand-trigger spray bottle. My thought was that the ferrous iron remover needed only to be applied on lower vehicle panel fenders and rockers and the entire back hatch or truck, including the rear bumper.
Edited
I am also "concerned" that there is some overlap as to what may be used on wheels for decontamination and what may be used on clear coated paint. A wheel cleaner, to me , is just that: for wheels only; whereas iron removers could be used on paint OR on wheels.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
You are correct as far as a hand sprayer, hence the pump up foamer. As far as how much of the vehicle, that depends on what you find during evaluation.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
The new OTC Meguiar`s clay bar that says `Improved` holds up to iron removers. It does not seem like the normal clay bar and is some type of poly clay. I use IronX Snowfoam as a clay lube with it and it holds up through the whole car.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Lonnie
I am once again reaching out to my fellow Autopians suggestions on which ferrous iron removers..
I do have some question concerning their use:
1) Do they take the place of 3-step decontamination washes, like that from ValuGard or Finish Kare?
Lonnie- You undoubtedly know my position on this one, so I`ll spare you a rehash.
At the risk of being a pedantic [jerk], note that an Iron/Ferrous Contamination Remover isn`t really different from ABC, it`s one third of ABC (the second step). So IMO it`s not an either/or, but rather "which". And you can clay while such stuff is dwelling, but it`ll dissolve/etc. the clay really fast and it shouldn`t be necessary unless the contamination is really bad.
Oh, and IIRC the FK stuff isn`t around any more..which might be OK as it was considered scary-potent by people who know from such stuff.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Accumulator
At the risk of being a pedantic [jerk], note that an Iron/Ferrous Contamination Remover isn`t really different from ABC, it`s one third of ABC (the second step). So IMO it`s not an either/or, but rather "which".
Is that really true? The B or 2 step was/is (I`ve only used the FK) an acid so it would also remove water spots which the bleeders won`t touch.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Have used Optimum Ferrex, partly because it mentioned "Furthermore, FerreX will dissolve and remove other surface contaminants such as tar and wax at the same time.", CarPro Iron-X cuz it seemed the de facto popular choice when I started all this, Sonax Fallout Remover and Gyeon Iron. Finally stuck with Gyeon Iron as I like the squarish 4L jug format and when using from the 1000ml Gyeon Iron, it is much easier to use for me for whatever reason. I tried Sonax Fallout remover out of a pump sprayer and it seemed a little thick, didn`t work so well.
In addition to the packaging, I seem to get more entertaining bleeding effect with the Gyeon so that`s fun. While it may be slightly less stinky than the others when I brought it inside for the winter last weekend I was told in no uncertain terms to "Get that stuff outta the house now..." so it is somewhat odoriferous.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Setec Astronomy
Is that really true? The B or 2 step was/is (I`ve only used the FK) an acid so it would also remove water spots which the bleeders won`t touch.
The acid is what removes/dissolves the ferrous contamination along with mineral deposits/water spots.
The FK stuff was good, huh?!? (As long as all went well ;) ) I still have some of the alkaline step (FK1119) though I hope I never need it. Worked like a miracle on the `93 Audi, even softening years-old laneline paint well enough that I could get it off.
I never did try their acidic stuff after Ketch warned me off of it...figure that when *he* says "don`t" that`s one informed opinion. Probably OK on something that`s not fragile, but I wasn`t taking chances on a vehicle that *was* fragile with irreplaceable stuff an acid could trash.
EDIT: I do find it interesting that many Ferrous Contamination Removers are marketed as "non-acidic"...wonder a) if that`s true, and b) how they remove the iron if it is. No, no..not flaming, just curious about it. And sure, I too would love to see the Indicator Coloring, not that I use such stuff once/decade or anything.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
I`m just saying that the whole "decontamination" thing once included more than just iron, it included the A step for neutralizing acid rain and bird acid, then the B step removed the metallic and mineral contamination. So I don`t really consider the Iron-X type products to be doing the same thing...of course, I`m not sure if that really matters anymore...does it?
I was unaware that Ketch warned on that FK Step 2, I still have some...you and I discussed many years ago how the Step 1 reeks of PD`s...I had to leave the bucket I used out in the garage for a week before I could bring it back in the basement. I`m not sure how many cars I used that FK system on, might have been only 1, maybe 2.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
I like seeing the discussion with the guys have been around a while, and products that some haven`t heard of or ever had the pleasure (displeasure?) of using.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Setec Astronomy
I`m just saying that the whole "decontamination" thing once included more than just iron, it included the A step for neutralizing acid rain and bird acid, then the B step removed the metallic and mineral contamination. So I don`t really consider the Iron-X type products to be doing the same thing...
Sounds like you and I are wondering about the same thing ;)
Quote:
of course, I`m not sure if that really matters anymore...does it?
I`d need to have the "how" properly documented and explained to me. Color me skeptical when it comes to stuff that I can`t explain and I`ve never received a real answer about it.
But IMO there *is* the Q of whether Decontamination is as necessary as the vendors would have us believe. (Note that IMO if you really need it I`d expect it to be obvious.) When I decided I oughta at least clay the A8 and Tahoe after so many years, the minimal contamination I got off made me wonder if it did need doing, and those get used awfully hard.
Quote:
I was unaware that Ketch warned on that FK Step 2, I still have some...you and I discussed many years ago how the Step 1 reeks of PD`s...I had to leave the bucket I used out in the garage for a week before I could bring it back in the basement. I`m not sure how many cars I used that FK system on, might have been only 1, maybe 2.
Yeah, he said their acid could even trash lenses, which I can`t replace on the `93. Note that he knows I`m smarter than the average bear ;) And on the Audis, some of the aged aluminum trim could be vulnerable to acids, so I just don`t go there with those. No loss, zero indication that it`s needed.
The FK1119 *DOES* smell simply awful! I was surprised that it was as bad as I`d been told.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
I’ve used a few different iron dissolvers and I think this is one area where you can buy the least expensive and be ok. I just used Britemax Iron Remover and it worked as well as any other I have tried. It was thicker than Iron-X, but I like the thinner iron removers. They spread out easier and I want them to run over the paintwork.
A pump sprayer is a good idea. I used a bottle and a half and my hand was tired from all of the squeezing.
I always wash after using an iron remover to ensure all of the iron remover is washed away. Then I clay the surface before I start to correct the paint. I wash after claying too.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
When you spray an IronX product on a clean paint with no oxidized iron particals on it. It`s ph neutral. But when you have oxidized iron particals on the paint and the reaction with the ironx is accuring that gets acidic. Before the IronX products there where acid to get the oxidized iron particals to desolve. Oxalic acid was the most used when doing this. Some acid wheel cleaners uses this still. Most of the bleeding wheel cleaners is just not concentrate enough IMO to be an effective iron remover. Sure you will see the bleeding effect. But does it desolve enough of the oxidized iron particals so they releases. Even some of the ironx products don`t do that either. And then of cause it`s the level of oxidized iron particals in that how long and how much the oxidation has been going on. If you where to use an iron remover as frequently as a wheel cleaner on the paint. You would not let to oxidize long and many bleeding iron remover would work good. But doing it once or twice a year you would like some effective ones. The Carpro IronX is known for being very effective and is in the top tier of bleeding iron removers. The one I have seen that makes IronX a run for it`s money is Bilt Hamber Korrosol. That would be very interesting to see how the newer iron remover products is standing up to them. I for an example have used a domestic brand of iron remover. And even if I got a great bleeding effect the first application. I sprayed it on a second time and got it to bleed again. And that says that the oxidized part of the iron partical has not been desolved thoroughly. Even if you get it to stop bleeding. It`s not a profe that the remaining iron partical has been released from the paint. That`s why a claying afterwards is a good thing to do to be certain to get it out of the clearcoat. <br>The oxalic acid that was used in the past took a long time to desolve the oxidized iron particals. And think that something like the acid in the Meguiars Wheel Brightener D140 is desolving the oxidized iron particals faster. But if you have the time and stay away from the clear plastic as headlights. The oxalic acid will be doing the work eventually. That`s the downside with most acidic chemicals that it haze clear plastic and etch the glass. And even haze the clearcoat some will do. So that`s why the bleeding iron remover has been a safer choice to use.<br><br>For heavy contaminants of iron particals I would use IronX. If I where to test another one I would be doing a test spot after the first application and see how it worked and I do that with IronX too lol. One thing that makes them more effective is aggitations with them. That makes me interested in the chemical resistant clay bars that Gyeon and Britemax has. To do the IronX products and the claying at the same time seems also to be time effective. And this is on paints that has not seen any iron remover for a long time. One thing that I do is also to do a tar remover before I apply the iron remover. This is so what ever oil based dirt around the iron particals is getting off first. So most of the iron particals get to be rinsed off after the oxidized part of the iron partical has been desolved. It`s getting more common to wash before rinsing off the IronX products. The only problem with that is a higher risk that the iron particals trapped in the wash mitt marring the paint. And that it could be embedded in the wash mitt even after a wash of it. So I would use a mitt that I could toss afterwards if doing that.
If you want to have an iron remover that just works I would go with Carpro IronX. Then of cause it`s others that works too. But on heavy contaminants of iron particals I would not take the chance with another product. If you used IronX on your car before and looking for more product I would test another product. But I either way do a test spot on some places I have seen it bleed more.
/Tony
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rlmccarty2000
I always wash after using an iron remover to ensure all of the iron remover is washed away. Then I clay the surface before I start to correct the paint. I wash after claying too.
I neutralize with a base when I`ve used the acidic stuff (even though that`s not per instructions).
Do you get much off when you clay afterwards? I`ve never had anything left after chemical decontamination, but then I clay the tenacious stuff during that process.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
SWETM- Yeah, it was oxalic acid that made Ketch leery of the FK product; he believed it to be at a "likely to etch" concentration.
Wonder how the ph-neutral ones turn acidic in the presence of iron?
Q: why the Tar Remover instead of something like "A"/FK1179? Not being critical at all, just wondering...
I did use IronX once...never stopped bleeding and never removed what I was attacking. Might`ve just been a lost cause...
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Accumulator
I neutralize with a base when I`ve used the acidic stuff (even though that`s not per instructions).
Do you get much off when you clay afterwards? I`ve never had anything left after chemical decontamination, but then I clay the tenacious stuff during that process.
After a good wash and iron decon there is not much left to remove with clay except on seriously contaminated vehicles. Usually I hit them with a tar remover as part of a chemical decon. Pine tar and tree sap are big contaminants in my area. I can spend a long time trying to remove petrified pine tar as it takes repeated treatments to remove.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rlmccarty2000
..Pine tar and tree sap are big contaminants in my area. I can spend a long time trying to remove petrified pine tar as it takes repeated treatments to remove.
Ah, OK..I never seem to think of those! Yeah, I bet it is indeed a big job.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Accumulator
SWETM- Yeah, it was oxalic acid that made Ketch leery of the FK product; he believed it to be at a "likely to etch" concentration.
Wonder how the ph-neutral ones turn acidic in the presence of iron?
The Ironx products accepts an H+, these Iron decontamination products are natively slightly basic, having a pH of 7.5, they are conjugate bases to (relative to original decontamination product) strong acids that result from the H+ donation to the decontamination product, thus creating a solution that is acidic enough to dissolve the iron. Of course I could be extremely wrong, as this gets into some pretty advanced organic chemistry, which I will never explore or take classes for.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
TheMeanGreen- Thanks, at least that`s more of a real explanation than I`d received from anybody else.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
TheMeanGreen
The Ironx products accepts an H+, these Iron decontamination products are natively slightly basic, having a pH of 7.5, they are conjugate bases to (relative to original decontamination product) strong acids that result from the H+ donation to the decontamination product, thus creating a solution that is acidic enough to dissolve the iron. Of course I could be extremely wrong, as this gets into some pretty advanced organic chemistry, which I will never explore or take classes for.
During this electrochemical reaction the water soluble iron complex gets slightly acidic. And not so acidic so it`s harmfull to the surface materials on a car. Fabric tops is what I know of that you don`t use IronX on. Think it was on Forensic Detailing Chanel on Youtube that he did an in depth video of the bleeding iron removers. The chemical in Carpro IronX is what is used when you perm hair. Ammonium Thioglycolate is the name and can be other name too as ammonium salt. I`m no chemist so just snapp things up that I think is interesting. There are other bleeding chemicals that has the same reaction that IronX has. But as I understand it they are not so effective as the ammonium thioglycolate is. Some can even turn purple/red when you spray it out of the bottle and before it even touches the paint. And also bleeding on the paint without any ferrous iron on it. That`s why I are little sceptical to those with a high bleeding effect almost directly they hit the paint. And gets as a uniform red surface on the paint and not the spots that bleeds. That said it can be a light cover of ferrous iron on the paint that gives you that effect with IronX too. The point is that not every iron remover uses the same chemical to desolve oxidized iron particals. And there are a difference between them in effectiveness. There are also a sweet spot with the right amount of the chemical ATG that also can be a difference with the same chemical in it.
Quated your post TheMeanGreen as to ad to the answer to accumulator.
Accumulator is the first step in the FK ABC the alkaline part of the decon kit? In that case it can also desolve the grease and other contaminants that is on the wheels or paint. But I want to use a petroleum based degreaser or a solvent that effective desolve the tar spots and rubber residue and the oil based grime first after a thorough PW rinse. And also the material that is in the brake pads. I can also after the dwell of the tar remover spray on an alkaline based degreaser right over it. And let that dwell and rinse all of it off. That`s when I not foam with the foamcannon first as I use a TFR prewash foam which is slightly alkaline. This is to uncover the embedded iron particals so it`s not under any tar spots and rubber residue. So the degreasers first then move on to iron removal.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
I`m surprised no one mentioned McKee`s iron remover. I`ve used Iron-X, Optimum, and a few others. In my experience the McKee`s was a superior product.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
SWETM- Thanks for expanding on that explanation.
Yeah, the "A" is highly alkaline (forget the actual ph). And yeah, I too always try to get everything that I can off before I deal with any ferrous contamination.
The "A" or Fk1119 always seem to remove tar/etc. for me fine, but I can certainly understand your wanting to use the solvent. Different people dealing with different stuff in different ways :D
Heh heh, my big take-home from these threads is that I`m glad I don`t have to actually *do* any decontamination on a remotely regular basis...who knows, I might *never* do another chemical decontamination again!
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
DaveT435
I`m surprised no one mentioned McKee`s iron remover. I`ve used Iron-X, Optimum, and a few others. In my experience the McKee`s was a superior product.
Would be intresting to see what chemical they use in their iron remover. And also in their wheel cleaner which seems to be very effective. Do you test to apply it again after the first application to see if you get any more bleeding?
Don`t know what it is that makes we have a lot of embedded iron particals here in Sweden. Think it`s cause of the 4 winter months where it`s a law to use winter tires. And that more than half of the vehicals uses dubbed winter tires. Then most of the cars here is known for the amount of brake dust they produce. Wonders if most of the US brands of vehicals uses low dust brake pads. Will see if I can make my decon wash before the winter sets in and take some pictures of the bleeding action. I do that every spring and fall and it is alot of bleeding on the lower side panels and the back of the car every time. Would not be complaining if I could skip that step cause the smell is nasty LOL.
The tar spots has been less since I started to maintain and have protection on the cars. And the iron partical has also been less. But they still gets there to be needed to take them off regualary.
I`m very impressed how you maintain and how well your protection works accumulator.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Pretty good discussion about iron removers over on Detailing World right now. They sell a few different ones over there but interesting none the less.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
SWETM
Would be intresting to see what chemical they use in their iron remover. And also in their wheel cleaner which seems to be very effective.
I believe the wheel cleaner uses salicylic acid or some salicylate because it`s low odor and more of red/orange rather than purple bleed.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
SWETM
I`m very impressed how you maintain and how well your protection works accumulator.
Well, the "impressive maintenance" is kinda mandatory since we need them to last...but thanks, I do appreciate that.
And I bet nobody is more impressed, *surprised too*, at how well I`m doing with the approaches I`m using. I used to have *so* many rust-blooms and so much other contamination, but not any more. Lucky me :D
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
After doing a little research on products with thioglycolate and checking a few SDS I found that Gyeon claims to have 50% thioglycolate. Most of the others are in the 20-25% range. Learn something new everyday.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
The Finish Kare system is known as the 1119/883 system. The 1119 was developed over 30 years ago for Chrysler and Ford`s predelivery large operations(both shut down in the late 90`s. These facilities handled up to 700 vehicles per day at each.The 1119 has a large percentage of keosene in it, IE the odor, it was to remove soot, etc that vehicles had on them from being stored at rail heads,etc. The facilities had three stage clarifiers for the run off, as it is very polluting. The 883 is a blend of acids,mainly sulfuric,which is the one that desolved the ferrous particles, however had to be used in controlled work area`s as sun and heat makes it over reactive,and if not controlled would wrinkle paint, attack and discolor trim. The final of the system was the 1118SC neutral shampoo, which brought the pH of the surfaces back to neutral pH. The Valugard ABC system does not use hydrocarbon solvents in the A. The B is a finely controlled blend of acids and not a aggressive as the 883, and when used per directions does not harm paint or trim. The C is similar to the FK 118SC, named Detail Wash. Needed to bring the chemistry of the paint film back to a neutral pH.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JustJesus
Thanks Ron Ketcham!
Yes indeed. Note the diffs between Ketch`s info and my less-than-accurate version posted earlier :o
So it was *sulfuric* acid in the 883 (thanks for the pn#)...guess all I remembered correctly was "don`t use it".
That 1119 sure did do the job on the occasions that I used it though...and even though I was scared off of the 883 I sure wish "B" were more aggressive.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
I have plenty of ABC left over from a few years ago sitting in my garage. I’m assuming there’s no/ a real long shelf life and I can use it again tomorrow if I needed to with no ill effects.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
SWETM
Would be intresting to see what chemical they use in their iron remover. And also in their wheel cleaner which seems to be very effective. Do you test to apply it again after the first application to see if you get any more bleeding?
Don`t know what it is that makes we have a lot of embedded iron particals here in Sweden. Think it`s cause of the 4 winter months where it`s a law to use winter tires. And that more than half of the vehicals uses dubbed winter tires. Then most of the cars here is known for the amount of brake dust they produce. Wonders if most of the US brands of vehicals uses low dust brake pads. Will see if I can make my decon wash before the winter sets in and take some pictures of the bleeding action. I do that every spring and fall and it is alot of bleeding on the lower side panels and the back of the car every time. Would not be complaining if I could skip that step cause the smell is nasty LOL.
The tar spots has been less since I started to maintain and have protection on the cars. And the iron partical has also been less. But they still gets there to be needed to take them off regualary.
I`m very impressed how you maintain and how well your protection works accumulator.
I`ve used second applications with the wheel cleaner. Didn`t really pay attention to any more bleeding, I don`t remember getting any though. That was on 6 year old neglected wheels. They were the only ones that required more than one application. I will try a second use the next time I get a car in that has a lot if iron.
I think most of the U.S. manufactured models do have low dusting brake pads compared to the European models. High Performance U.S. Vehicles brake pads dust a lot more. In most states here studded winter tires are prohibited, I`m sure the studs add a considerable amount of iron particles that end up in vehicles.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
As long as the products have not gone through a couple of freeze/thaw cycles, should be fine.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Make it more aggressive and then you have paint and trim damage issues possible.
When we first started working on the formulation for the B, had a couple that were smoking fast, however, the paint`s resin system was damaged, not noticable to the naked eye or right away, but when the panels were put in the xeon gas chamber, became very clear that those "fast" formulations were not the way to go.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Ron Ketcham
Make it more aggressive and then you have paint and trim damage issues possible... those "fast" formulations were not the way to go.
Yeah, sigh...no free lunch. With any luck I`ll never need such stuff again and I do sincerely doubt that I`ll ever need anything more aggressive. Can always just get mechanical about it during the dwell time anyhow.
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Ron Ketcham
As long as the products have not gone through a couple of freeze/thaw cycles, should be fine.
Thank you Ron!
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Re: Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers
Thanks to my fellow Autopians for this discussion and suggestions on iron removers.
Not so sure on the chemistry lessons and information, as my chemical understanding is very elementary.
Like I asked , I just want something that works well on iron removal, as I see this a lot on newer vehicles that I sometimes detail for friends or family, and obviously it is most noticeable on light-colored vehicles.
Someone asked where does it come from? I told them either in shipping by rail car from the wheels and tracks OR from the iron disc brake sloughing/abraiding off onto the paint. When asked why it is so prevalent on rear trunk lids, back ends, and rear hatch doors I would think that air flows over and around vehicles cause this and iron particles ends up there.
I also assume that if someone is an aggressive braking driver OR does a lot of stop-n-go driving that iron particles, and hence rust specks, would be more prevalent on such driven vehicles and require more frequent iron decontamination.
Any thoughts?? I am assuming that iron decontamination is an ongoing vehicle exterior cleaning process; IE, it is not a once-and-done thing.