Can you apply a wax on top of Gyeon Cancoat?

Hi all, I`m thinking of putting Cancoat on top of my car after a polish phase. Would you usually apply something on top of this, like a synthetic wax? Or just leave it alone and reapply 6 months later, or I`ve seen mention of maintenance with something like Gyeon Wetcoat? It`s a daily driver and I don`t want to get too complicated with many more products.

After a 1/2 year to a year or so when it could potentially wear down, would you just reapply another coating of Cancoat if the paint still looks good? I`d like to avoid compounding/polishing/claying again. But I`m not sure how this would turn out. I know the goal is to compound once and maintain that protection into the future so only some polishing is necessary so you don`t shave down the clearcoat. Thanks.

I wouldn`t top CanCoat with anything. The beading and sheeting is amazing and any product you put on top will only interfear with those properties. I`d also be afraid of the sealant/wax attracting dust which wouldn`t be as big of an issue with "naked" CanCoat.

For my vehicle wearing CanCoat I use Carpro Ech2O as a QD for bird droppings and random water spots after washing. Every month-ish, I use Gyeon Cure as a booster. Nothing fancy.

My plan with CanCoat is to let it go 5~6 months until winter starts to set in. At that point, I`ll wash, do a wipe down with Gyeon Prep, and apply a second coat of CanCoat. It should go the distance through the winter. At that point it will be a year since the last polishing and I`ll give the car a light polish again.

Personally I would not put anything on top of Cancoat except a SIO2 topper. A wax will not bond very well to the Cancoat SIO2. Not that a pile of wax will appear on your garage floor, but it will just not hold up as well as if you apply your wax to a freshly prepped paint surface. If you are thinking about using a wax why not just use wax to start with? By careful washing and the use of a SIO2 topper after each wash you will probably be able to get a year out of Cancoat easily as most toppers will give you a week or two of protection.

Why not?

Agree with Ron. Why not? It won’t hurt anything, but not sure it would be the best choice. I have can coat on my car and I do like to play around with toppers. Thus far I prefer cure, since it’s made to work with it. I have also tried overcoat and it works well. I just tried beadmaker on the hood to see how it does, and it’s slick as all get out. Haven’t washed it yet, so no experience with beading level.

As for reapplying can coat at 6 months or so, I asked Jeff from Gyeon that exact question at detailfest and he said you can reapply it without the need to polish out whatever remains of can coat. If topping though, I would stop topping a couple months before reapplying can coat to make sure there there is no topping left if you aren’t going to polish.

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Originally Posted by xilex

Hi all, I`m thinking of putting Cancoat on top of my car after a polish phase. Would you usually apply something on top of this, like a synthetic wax? Or just leave it alone and reapply 6 months later, or I`ve seen mention of maintenance with something like Gyeon Wetcoat? It`s a daily driver and I don`t want to get too complicated with many more products.

After a 1/2 year to a year or so when it could potentially wear down, would you just reapply another coating of Cancoat if the paint still looks good? I`d like to avoid compounding/polishing/claying again. But I`m not sure how this would turn out. I know the goal is to compound once and maintain that protection into the future so only some polishing is necessary so you don`t shave down the clearcoat. Thanks.

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First of all welcome to Autopia.

Gyeon CanCoat is a great product. I will give you the method I have been using that has worked for me. Before I get to that, CanCoat has exceeded all expectations for me. Gyeon claims an average of 6 months. It has gone a full year for me here in Southern California. The car it is on sits outside 24/7 and is washed bi-weekly or so. It has been exposed to rain and is parked under a tree that saps once a year and the birds making #2 lol.

What I have noticed is at the 10 month mark the water on the flat surfaces has started to show signs of wear and the coating is not as hydrophobic as it once was. Still on the surface but it has turned into more sheeting action with oblong type beading. The sides are doing much better.

The prep for this car was the usual wash and clay but it was polished using the Gyeon Primer Polish and left to sit overnight. This allowed the SiO2 in the polish to cure. Came back the next day with a light prep wipe and I only applied one coat of CanCoat using a microfiber applicator.

For maintenance I used CarPro EcH20 as a drying aid after every wash other than the times I followed up with Gyeon Cure every few months. This combo netted me the 1 year longevity of it. Simple and effective.

For an even simpler method just wash and dry and reapply later.

If you wish you can use a wax on the surface. It won`t harm CanCoat but you will exhibit the hydrophobic properties of the wax. You will also lose the better self cleaning effect from CanCoat.

Wet Coat is another way to maintain it. I was not fond of these water activated spray sealants. So it is all user preference.

If you decide to reapply later you may want to chemically decontaminate the paint prior to reapplication. This will at least remove some of the contaminants that are on the surface over that 6 month time frame.

I hope this helps.

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Originally Posted by The Guz

First of all welcome to Autopia.

Gyeon CanCoat is a great product. I will give you the method I have been using that has worked for me. Before I get to that, CanCoat has exceeded all expectations for me. Gyeon claims an average of 6 months. It has gone a full year for me here in Southern California. The car it is on sits outside 24/7 and is washed bi-weekly or so. It has been exposed to rain and is parked under a tree that saps once a year and the birds making #2 lol.

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Guz ..... Does the CanCoat allow you to remove all of the tree sap?

I recently moved South, and I`ve found unless I remove the pine tree sap immediately, it seems to leave a very faint "footprint" behind. It`s my son`s car so it sits outside 24 x 7. I`d like to protect the paint with something that will prevent that.

Also, do you think the Gyeon Primer Polish creates a better bond with the CanCoat, or will any polish suffice?

Thanks for the discussion everyone!

I guess my goal is to maintain CanCoat`s protective effects with a reasonably minimum maintenance. I live in SoCal, also. Car gets carport/garage in the evening, but sits in bare parking lot about 5 days a week. I do a wash at the local car hand wash every month or so. It like a good workflow is apply Cancoat, and after a wash, apply Ech2O or Gyeon Cure? I see you guys mention use Ech2O regularly after a wash, but Gyeon Cure every few months. Any reason to use one over the other? Gyeon Cure says "The primary job of Q²M Cure is to maximize the base quartz coating`s hydrophobic durability." It looks like Ech2O is sorta similar to Meg`s Ultimate Quik Wax but for SiO2-based coating, I think.

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Originally Posted by The Guz

If you decide to reapply later you may want to chemically decontaminate the paint prior to reapplication. This will at least remove some of the contaminants that are on the surface over that 6 month time frame.

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Is this something like CarPro Eraser, or something else? I`ll end up using M205 for polish and after the decontaminate apply the CanCoat, then maintain like above, and skip applying stuff on top. I never considered this, but is maintaining hydrophobicity crucial to maintaining CanCoat`s (or any other coating) protective attributes?

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Originally Posted by xilex

Thanks for the discussion everyone!

I guess my goal is to maintain CanCoat`s protective effects with a reasonably minimum maintenance. I live in SoCal, also. Car gets carport/garage in the evening, but sits in bare parking lot about 5 days a week. I do a wash at the local car hand wash every month or so. It like a good workflow is apply Cancoat, and after a wash, apply Ech2O or Gyeon Cure? I see you guys mention use Ech2O regularly after a wash, but Gyeon Cure every few months. Any reason to use one over the other? Gyeon Cure says "The primary job of Q²M Cure is to maximize the base quartz coating`s hydrophobic durability." It looks like Ech2O is sorta similar to Meg`s Ultimate Quik Wax but for SiO2-based coating, I think.



Is this something like CarPro Eraser, or something else? I`ll end up using M205 for polish and after the decontaminate apply the CanCoat, then maintain like above, and skip applying stuff on top. I never considered this, but is maintaining hydrophobicity crucial to maintaining CanCoat`s (or any other coating) protective attributes?

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CarPro Eraser is used prior to applying a coating to remove any remaining polishing oils to allow the coating to bond. You chemically decontaminate a Coating or paint with an iron remover such as CarPro Iron-X. It is also best to use a shampoo that leaves nothing behind to interfere with the coating such as CarPro Reset or you can use ECH2O in a rinseless wash solution to wash your car. I hope I have answered some of your questions.

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Originally Posted by SGM2008

Guz ..... Does the CanCoat allow you to remove all of the tree sap?

I recently moved South, and I`ve found unless I remove the pine tree sap immediately, it seems to leave a very faint "footprint" behind. It`s my son`s car so it sits outside 24 x 7. I`d like to protect the paint with something that will prevent that.

Also, do you think the Gyeon Primer Polish creates a better bond with the CanCoat, or will any polish suffice?

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The sap from the tree is sticky and does not harden. During that time the car was washed weekly and the sap was removed and left no sort of staining.

I am sure the Primer Polish did add to the increased durability. That is one of the functions of the polish. You don`t necessarily need the primer polish. Perhaps a side by side test would be something to try between a primer polish and a regular polish.

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Originally Posted by xilex

Thanks for the discussion everyone!

I guess my goal is to maintain CanCoat`s protective effects with a reasonably minimum maintenance. I live in SoCal, also. Car gets carport/garage in the evening, but sits in bare parking lot about 5 days a week. I do a wash at the local car hand wash every month or so. It like a good workflow is apply Cancoat, and after a wash, apply Ech2O or Gyeon Cure? I see you guys mention use Ech2O regularly after a wash, but Gyeon Cure every few months. Any reason to use one over the other? Gyeon Cure says "The primary job of Q²M Cure is to maximize the base quartz coating`s hydrophobic durability." It looks like Ech2O is sorta similar to Meg`s Ultimate Quik Wax but for SiO2-based coating, I think.

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EcH20 is a waterless wash first. But it can be used as a detail spray which in turn makes for a great drying aid. It is a gloss enhancer with a little SiO2 in it but not enough to leave durable protection behind. You would then use Cure every few weeks. Cure is a spray sealant used to leave a sacrificial layer of protection to maintain the base layer. Think of Cure as a spray wax. You don`t need to use Cure all the time. This is why I mentioned the two products.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xilex

Is this something like CarPro Eraser, or something else? I`ll end up using M205 for polish and after the decontaminate apply the CanCoat, then maintain like above, and skip applying stuff on top. I never considered this, but is maintaining hydrophobicity crucial to maintaining CanCoat`s (or any other coating) protective attributes?

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What I meant by decontaminate I meant during a wash to chemically decontaminate. It is often referred to as a decon wash. This will remove some but not all contaminants that will accumulate on the paint from the surrounding environment. A prep wipe with Eraser after a decon wipe would not be a bad idea either.

Coatings in general have better self cleaning attributes than a wax or sealant. They tend to attract less dust than a wax. Of course the hydrophobics will be altered to that of the wax or sealant on top. There is nothing wrong with waxing but just know the performance will be that of the topper.

Thanks. I might just use Cure after each 4-8 week wash, then. And figure out what to do at 6-12 months. Too many products :)