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Has anybody ever used either of these products. I have only ever used Nanolex. I believe it was the 500ml bottle. It took about half a bottle to do the car. (Plus I spilled some) It turned purple, and I guess it did what it had to do. Any other favorite decon products?
GYEON-quartz-Cloth-Remover-Cleanser
Nanolex-Wheel-Cleaner-Remover
I personally like all the iron removers I have tried. the iron x, Nanolex And poorboys. I use about 20-32 oz on a large 4 door sedan.
They all seem to leave the surface smoother and make claying easier as the iron removing products seem to remove a lot of the things the clay would pick up.
All the above get job done. Can’t say one more than another.
I`d just find the largest size for the cheapest price and not worry about the brand. They all work.
I`m going to have to google autopia search past threads. The last time I looked into this much - the primary ingredient, thioglycolic acid , ironx had more than others. In cleaning wheels, ironx did appear to be stronger than other wheel cleaners. I have been thinking about $ per volume ratio, but product strength was also on my wiki to add to that same comparison table
A side question do you ONLY do this type of treatment before you clay or do you do it between seals / waxes as well without claying?
I used the Gyeon. Not as stinky as some of the others I`ve used. Still effective enough to get the job done.
Been using BDX as I bought a gallon of the stuff during a sale
I`ve done it with no follow up of anything. In other words, just to do it and keep iron contaminants off. I do follow up with a good wash, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by LGHT
I`m still using the ValuGard ABC (well, the first two-thirds of it), but I don`t really do it any more...haven`t for ages as it`s just not necessary. When it *is* necessary, regulars here know that I`m all about Chemical Decontamination, but I`m still a little surprised that so many people apparently get so much severe contamination that it`s being done so regularly.
As for reLSPing, I bet that 95% of the time I don`t do anything at all except the usual Maintenance Wash (which does include Spot-Claying as needed), I just decide "eh, maybe I oughta give it another coat" around the point where I`m drying, and I do exactly that. No Decon, no serious claying, no polishing, not even a Paint Cleaner. Just not needed.
After seeing how minimal the contamination was when I clayed the Tahoe and A8 after so many *years* of hard use, what I`m doing is plenty.
I did not see much "bleeding" when I last used an iron remover either. My car was garage kept but I have not used it in a long time and I have not had access to the garage. Last I washed it I saw things that didn`t come off in the wash and that I thought may scratch while I clay, so I was hoping an iron remover may take care of that.
I have never used Nanolex Iron remover but I have used Gyeon, Iron X, Poorboys, and BDX (primarily for wheels though they say you can dilute it 1:1 for paint I believe - not tried this though). They all generally work the same and get the job done. Some work faster than others due to the higher %`s of the thyoglicolic acid (this is what reacts with the ferrous particles and turns them purple). The amount you used seems about right to cover an entire car. You could try it in a pressure sprayer to see if you get better coverage with less product.
Purely looking at MSDS sheets for percentage of thioglycolic acid (aka Sodium mercaptoacetate , ammonium mercaptoacetate) in the mixture:
Gyeon Iron - 40 to 45%
Iron x - 25 to 30%
3D BDX - 25 to 30%
Optimum Ferrex - 10 to 20%
Nanolex Iron Remover - 10 to 25%
Poorboys World Iron Remover - 10 to 15%
I could not find any MSDS on Mckees37 iron remover, or Griots Garage but I am guessing they all fall somewhere within one of the ranges.
I think this is the thread here tests some of the major Iron removes at the time by Todd:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/detai...mparisons.html
I hope me mr. helme is doing well. Ive always enjoyed his over-engineered breakdowns. Like the polisher charts, or the pad charts, and the list goes on !
Not to take this thread off topic, for wheels I do like 1Z colourtec, mainly just because it foams a bit.
However.....I have cleaned a wheel once post colourtec to see, and used IronX afterwards, and it ~bled~ more.
It`s not necessarily all about the % but I did want to point that out when one determines ROI based on cost per ounce
Interestingly 1z colortec has no mention of thioglycolic acid or by other known names anywhere listed.Quote:
Originally Posted by mobiledynamics
If we are speaking wheel cleaners I have the same issue with other wheel cleaners which are similar to 1z colortec. I always follow up with a dedicated iron remover like iron x and still see the purple bleed.
I`m not a chemist or anything but if a product has a higher % of the active ingredient which is known to dissolve ferrous particles is it not logical that its going to work better in terms of not having to use as much product? That`s just my thought though.
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1Z def has is.
My wheel cleaners is more just leftover soap/pressure washer.
I do break out the 1Z or even the Full Effect Plus - 3/4 times a year. Right before I Hydro2 them.
Do I have a preference over both. Not really, I just have them in my stash just to keep up with the Jonses.
When I actually did do the math, IronX came out as the best $ to product ratio, but it`s been a looon time since then and I have not compare ROI to the anything newer that has come out since then. The last time I spoke to Mike was maybe 18 months ago. Great resource !
OK, thanks for explaining. Gotta do what you gotta do. Guess it`s just been *so* long since I had to do such things that it`s colored my perspective.Quote:
Originally Posted by agtjamesb007