Printable View
McKee`s 37 Jeweling Wax or Merzerna SF3800 ? Still on the edge before making a purchase as both these products I presume are SMAT based.
I read somewhere that a jeweling polish should be a DAT polish and not a SMAT based product which I can understand as SMAT abrasives never break down.
Scholl`s S40 is another one to consider.
Do you want an LSP in your jeweling polish?
Wolfgang finishing glaze
It doesn`t really matter to me one way or another, but the trend towards products for jeweling paint now is like McKee`s 37 Jeweling Wax which is like an AIO with ultrafine abrasives. I just want to conserve as much clearcoat as possible and remove minute swirling from winter elements like snow and ice with my annual details on my personal vehicles.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadgerRivFan
Gotcha. Two others to consider (one with protection and one without) that could potentially meet your needs are Polish Angel Escalate Lotion and Gyeon Primer.
https://www.autopia-carcare.com/poli...l#.WyGA4BZOnYU
PA Escalate Lotion is pad dependent based on the level of cut desired. Very little product is needed. Wipe off is super easy and the finish is terrific. Top it off with any wax, sealant, or hybrid LSP of your choice.
https://www.autopia-carcare.com/gyeo...l#.WyGCvxZOnYU
Gyeon Primer also has very mild abrasives, and is similar to Essence without any fillers. It is very very easy to work with. The gloss left behind is amazing. Although it’s a primer for ceramic coatings, you can top it with waxes, sealants, and hybrids also if you prefer. I used it to “jewel” one of my show cars and have been very pleased with the results.
Mike Phillips seems to like the new pinicale Jeweling polish
Anyone tried Meguiar`s Mirror Bright Polishing Wax ? This product is available with the online vendor that I am about to place an order with.
It’s not bad. It is an AIO that has SMAT abrasives.Quote:
Originally Posted by EdLancer
So I take it you`re in the camp that believes that a jeweling polish should be DAT based polish ?Quote:
Originally Posted by The Guz
I hadnt really thought this was debateable. Fine DAT polish, rotary, pad with no cut. Thats the formula for the technique, no exceptions.Quote:
Originally Posted by EdLancer
Doesn`t really matter to me. An AIO such as Mirror Bright for me are for those times when time is of the essence. I don`t use AIO`s on my personal vehicles anymore. The exception is CarPro Essence or Gyeon Primer Polish which I used as a primer for a base coating from wither brand. For me it is easier to just polish and protect with something that lasts longer. Polishing once a year or every two years (now that my cars are ceramic coated) is not removing that much clear. Today`s modern abrasives are good and not like the rocks in the bottle polishes of old.Quote:
Originally Posted by EdLancer
Mirror Bright actually has good correction ability . Not as good as say the new D166 AIO. Mirror Bright also won`t win any durability contests. This is what I meant by it being pretty good.
I have used SF3800 and it is a bit oily. I have not used it in a long time but I remember it taking more effort to remove. I am not a Menzerna polishes expert but I thought they were all DAT.
So if I continue using Meg`s #82 a DAT polish wouldn`t that give the same results as a jeweling polish if I apply the DA on it a little longer with a light polish pad ? I always like the way #82 looked followed by a LSP like Collinite 845IW.Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock645
End result may be comparable but its not honest to god jeweling. And nobody says you have to jewel(or burnish as some prefer to say) to get great looking paint. But jeweling is a specific technique, not simply a matter of what kind of polish you use, or what the label says.Quote:
Originally Posted by EdLancer
IMO it`s not an either/or with regard to diminishing/non abrasives, but rather a matter of how fine the (final) cut is.
I wouldn`t expect a Burnishing Polish to remove visible marring, i.e., "do correction" as I`d use something far too mild for that.
Not that I`ve done this for years or expect to any time soon ;)
And yeah, I`m gonna keep saying "Burnishing" instead of "jeweling" until all the machinists/gunsmiths/watchmakers change their definitions of those two words. Last jeweler I asked used "burnishing" for this kind of thing too.
I used write up manufacturing processes for zinc die-casting plants and "burnishing" was when we used stainless steel shot media instead of stone polishing media on cast parts in a tumbler ! ...LoL I am talking about huge industrial tumblers not these little guys, but same principle ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irVUt1BdiugQuote:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
I guess jeweling gives us Autopians more "machine time" with our beloved rotaries and DA polishers or else we would have nothing to polish, I just polished my matte finished walnut Cadelli cigar humidor I picked up at a garage sale and now it looks like $2500 Davidoff polished humidor ! ...LoLQuote:
Originally Posted by jrock645
Can’t beat the gloss you get from 3M Ultra Fine Polish + LC Red with Rotary.
To me, jeweling should only be performed after the paint is completely finished down. The liquid should have little to no abrasives and the pad be the finest finishing. You shouldn’t be removing marring or haze. Just building gloss.
Wonder if anybody is burnishing to improve the finish left by (supposed) Finishing Polishes such as M205. Last time I did it was also the last time I did one of ours with M205. No visible flaws, seemed "fine", but I knew it could be significantly better. But... I sure wouldn`t bet $ that anybody else could tell the diff.
EdLancer- Heh heh, that "having nothing to polish" was a specific goal of mine for *MANY* years, a goal I`m happy to have attained :D I do sometimes refer to my "beloved Cyclos", but if I never touched `em again that`d be swell.
And hey, that "Steel Ball Burnishing" is neat! I was indeed expecting something more along the lines of a tumbler, but that`s really cool! Oh man, a huge one like you documented would really be something. Thanks for posting that.
Is Meg`s M205 considered a "finishing polish" these days ? I might simply just get a bottle of Meg`s Ultimate Polish to try as they are available at large brick and mortars stores here and they go on special from time to time. I calculated that two bottles of 16oz Ultimate Polish is cheaper than a 32oz bottle of M205 that I have to order online. Since I got some many detailing products I haven`t bought any new stuff for the past 8 years. My tin of FK1000P is on its way can`t wait to try it out next week when I detail my own ride.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
Yeah it was one of my projects to install a large capital equipment "inline" straight line vibrator, the parts simply start from one end and comes out the other all polished similar to a conveyor belt pizza oven, we have even thrown in complete engine blocks into it and it comes out all polished and sharp edges rounded and deburred. A tumbler is simply a cement barrel mixer with media and soap, it`s one of the cheaper ways for companies that don`t want to invest in a true round or inline vibrator, but it is normally reserved for rough or none critical parts. When we did furniture hardware we would plate the parts and then use a black oxide on the parts and once we burnish it with steel shots it would polish the exposed areas of the part and the black oxide would stay in the areas where the shots can`t reach to give it that antique look.
They call themselves Giant, its puny compared to the one I had installed it was over a 100 feet long and about 4 feet wide.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKf7KCChcBY
Yes M205 and Ultimate Polish are both finishing polishes. UP is derived from M205 but has less cut and more polishing oils compared to M205.Quote:
Originally Posted by EdLancer
I think UP is right up my ally less aggressive than M205 and more in tune with Meg`s #82 in aggressiveness, more polishing oils just the right choice for my own well kept vehicles.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Guz
I just placed a huge order for detailing supplies and the only item that was not on my list was the polish because I couldn`t decide on which one. Funny how sometimes the right products is right in front of us ! ...LoL
The Guz- Oh gee, *more* TSO than M205?!? And I can`t stand M205 primarily over that issue. I`d *never* get those oils off to my satisfaction without more work than I`m ever gonna do. I could rant for ages about how disappointed I was with M205 but it was the only nondiminishing Finishing Polish available for a while. Still have that [freakin`] gallon of it sitting around...
EdLancer- Can you tell I`d recommend a different Finishing Polish?!? ;)
Sure hope you like the FK1000P, what with all the praise I heap upon it. I expect that you will, but then there`s Finick, who can`t get his to flash off right...wonder what`s up with him...
All this talk of burnishing/tumbling/etc. is gonna get me all revved up about stuff I`ve been happy without! Sold off..thinking...?three? tumblers back around 2002.
Which ...which ...which do you like ??? ...LoLQuote:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
I think he likes HD Polish, another great option for a fine finishing polish.Quote:
Originally Posted by EdLancer
I just just got some of this polish. Really looking forward to trying it out. Are you using s DA or rotary with it?Quote:
Originally Posted by DBAILEY
Except for the bottles, which were apparently designed by a complete idiot, S40 is very nice, especially on softer paint. A bit less effective on really hard paint. I prefer it far more than Menzerna 3800/4500 which I was often never really sure was doing much.
Have used with both the LC Crimson Hydrotech pad and Scholls Honey Spider pad, both Flex 3401 and Rupes 15.
Very little product needed on pad, works thru its cycle quicker than Menz 3800/4500. I think Scholls refers to it as their Rapid Diminishing Abrasive Technology or some such marketing mumbo jumbo.
I`m too chicken-sh*t to ever pick up a rotary so no idea how it works with that.[emoji16]Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveT435
I really like HD Polish+ for light stuff. Not a whole lotta cut but a very enjoyable SMAT product.Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock645
Right. Haven`t tried the Polish+ though. I`d try Griot`s Perfecting Creme in a heartbeat too.Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock645
No more diminishing abrasives for me, though if I *did* want to go that route I still have plenty of 1Z High Gloss, which was my fave Finishing Polish for a long, long time. That`s what I used for burnishing back when I did such stuff, and it was one of the *VERY* rare polishes I would often "work to powder". Zero issues from doing that.
Im with Budget on S40. One of the best finishing polishers on soft Japanese paints. I use it on top of S20 AIO and with a right technique you can get a little extra gloss out of clear coat.
Also keep in mind that there is a technique tweak required (IMHO) when switching from smart to dat. With DAT i tend to hit the clear coat harder at start to get the extra cut and then ease off to let the finer particles do the work.
With SMART, you can work it the same. The only consideration is the amount of work time you can get out of before oils dry out.
Cheers
Sent from my MI MAX using Tapatalk
Thanks for the response. Looking forward to using it. I`ve found that a little more aggressive polish is fine on really hard paints. A rotary really isn`t anything to be afraid of. I still have problems not leaving holograms on sharp curves on black cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by BudgetPlan1
I`m almost completely set up for painting so I guess I`ll find a panel that has ares on it like the ones I have problems with and practice...repaint...practice lol. I`ve finished out a few flat panels with a Jeweling polish and pad with a rotary.
I may have to go 100% rotary soon anyway.
Right. I`m no Rotary Meister by any means, but I`ve *NEVER* damaged paint with one. Not starting out as an ignorant kid, not hammering plastic panels decades later, and if *I* can avoid an "oops" I`d expect anybody could. I never even did the "deliberately burn a panel just to see what it`s like"!Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveT435
I commend you for posting that! Heh heh, let alone here at Autopia :D Same here, and if there are holograms on black then there are (much harder to see) holograms on other colors as well. My wife and I have spent countless hours inspecting for `em lest something be visible weeks later under some oddball conditions.Quote:
I still have problems not leaving holograms on sharp curves on black cars.
So how will you deal with those holograms if you *do* go all-rotary?
Always wanted to get a bottle of Ultrafina SE, the downside of Ultrafina is that it is designed to be used with a rotary exclusively limiting it`s versatility.Quote:
Originally Posted by David Fermani
Ultrafina was big here for a while...but I thought some were all, uhm...opinionated...about undesired filling that often reappeared quite a ways down the road.
First I`ll try doing those kind of edges with a PE-8, which I would have to buy...AGAIN lol. The smaller pad should be easier to keep flat on the surface. If that doesn`t do it hopefully I`ll at least be able to use my Flex mini to clean them up. I`ll just have to stay away from a lot of vibration. Hoping the whole thing is going to be a non issue anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
The way I see it if you never admit your inability to do something no one will ever help you learn.
This one is tough to beat, and I`ve been lookin`.Quote:
Originally Posted by DBAILEY
I end up right back with S40 & Rupes white pads.
There is one out now a new formula Adam`s Finish polish, micro- abrasive infused with SiO2. A bit cheaper.
:hotrod:
Hope that does work out OK. Vibration can be dead-serious!Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveT435
LOVE seeing you post that! If only more people thought that way! Heh heh, there are still [crap]loads of things that I can`t do, but a lot fewer than if I`d never admitted it.Quote:
The way I see it if you never admit your inability to do something no one will ever help you learn.