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Well- I’ll let the below pics speak a bit more, but I’d like to remove the tar like sound deadener found on the floor panel of my car.
There’s the heat gun and scrape way. Or the dry ice way.
What are your thoughts?
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Striker- Between those two I`d expect heat to work best. I`d want a can of Adhesive Remover or Paint Prep Solvent on-hand too.
But....why?
Because I am paranoid hahahahaha!Quote:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
The fox body mustangs have a section where two pieces of the floor meet right where your feet go....then they placed this sound deadener over it and it can cause issues with rust. Many cars have suffered this and id prefer to move it.
At least from the front two sections!
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This is what mine look like. I’ve also noticed that in some parts it started to melt and stained the back of my brand new carpet.
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Striker- Ah, OK..now I get it.
I think I`d just clear it away from the potential problem areas, treat those with RustSeal, and then get something back down to replace what you removed.
I mean...why would water/moisture be an issue once it`s all sealed up?
Is it attached by a butyl type adhesive? If so, I’d scrape what you can with a platic putty knife and then heat gun tbe rest off.
Usually, this OEM type stuff is easier to get off with dry ice. It isn`t very similar to aftermarket sound deadeners like Dynamat.
Just had this addressed during a race car build at the shop, and it`s something we`ve dealt with during other builds in the past. Unfortunately, the answer is: whatever works better.
This car responded really well to a heat gun and scraping, but in the past we`ve had other cars that needed the freezing/chiseling approach. All end up getting followed with adhesive remover to get the last of it off.
Make sure you`ve got good ventilation!!
Well- after one hour with the heat gun and scraper. This is what you get:
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Looks like no fun at all!