Undercarriage Cleaning & Care (Removing winter salt)

Your vehicle’s undercarriage; it’s what you don`t see that silently awaits underneath your cars. Removing sprayed brine solution to protect your undercarriage is just as important as detailing the paint. Wheel wells, sub-frame, springs, fender well and all of the other black and gray parts underneath the body need detailing too.



Although dry salt is inert 15 – 20.0F (9 – 29.oC) is considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow and ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the sprayed brine solution (pH 8.5) used on roads will have an adverse effect (the formation of rust and/or corrosion) on the vehicles paint and undercarriage. Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2) attracts moisture from the air making it more aggressive than salt because it is active even when dry. Magnesium Chloride is basically ‘liquid rust’. It clings to everything, attracts moisture plus it does not wash off easily.



After removing dirt, road grime, and etc with P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimumâ„¢ Polymer Technologies - Power Clean- use a pressure washer



Never go underneath a car supported by the supplied jack - always use axle stands if you wish to work underneath the car. Always jack the car up at the manufacturer`s recommended jacking points. Ensure the jack is in stable contact with both the jacking point (see owner`s manual) and the ground. Always work on level ground.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88...ps9dfa1ba4.jpg

High Pressure Under body Lance



Angled spray lance connected to a power washer, this set-up is specifically designed to clean those hard to reach areas under the wheel arches and the under carriage. Inlet Connection: ¼ - inch Female connection QC Plug - Max Flow: 3.5 to 6.0 GPM - 16" Undercarriage Cleaner, 4000 PSI | PRI Industries, Inc.



A spray lance connected to a power washer, this set-up is specifically designed to clean those hard to reach areas under the wheel arches and the under carriage. Inlet Connection: 1/4 - inch female QC Plug - Max Pressure: 4,000 PSI - Max Flow: 3.5 to 6.0 GPM



Methodology



a) Undercarriage cleaning- thoroughly spray an undiluted citrus cleaner (P2IS Total Auto Wash) and let it soak in; remove by thoroughly rinsing with water. Fill pressure washer tank with citrus cleaner and spray undercarriage (do not use excess pressure as water may penetrate crevices and seams where it cannot drain, causing corrosion), let it soak and then remove with plain water.



b) Undercarriage Salt Removal - spray undercarriage with ValuGuard Proguard Truck and Trailer Wash is an alkaline (pH 12.5) liquid concentrate, which is a blend of detergents that penetrates and disperses Magnesium Chloride and road film, which after rinsing leaves the surface charged to repel dirt and soil. Low foam for better penetration into seams where Magnesium Chloride is difficult to remove



Cleans salt residue from all surfaces and will help brighten aluminum surfaces without etching and also works well to remove bugs, tar, and asphalt. Designed to be applied by brush, moderate or high pressure spray, and can also be used in steam cleaning applications. Product is completely biodegradable



Do not allow to dry on vehicle. For cleaning tough areas like wheel wells, chassis, and very soiled wheels apply VG-502 at 1-1 mix to wet surface, allow to set for 3-5 minutes, Agitate as needed and then rinse with moderate to high-pressure water spray for a clean surface. Dry all painted and glass surfaces after rinsing to prevent water spotting.



Personal Protection Equipment



Suitable eye protection and chemical resistant gloves (avoid prolonged skin contact)



MSDS: http://d41922.u33.snhosting.net/wp-c...r-Wash-502.pdf



Product websites:



Automotive International Inc. - 513-489-7883 / (800) 543-7156 –Valugard | Automotive International, Inc.

Great articla as always are any pics during the process avalible

While I do find my undercar lance (I have the one from American Water Broom) to be a very handy thing, I still believe that the best thing to do is get under there with brushes and swabs (and whatever else works for you) and really go at it inch-by-inch.

Using an easy to use LSP-type product (either a leaves-stuff-behind QD or a WOWA sealant) can a) provide a sacrificial layer and b)keep all the winter [stuff] from adhering so tenaciously.

I guess the above probably sounds awfully, uhm...Autopian, but IME it doesn`t take all *that* much time/effort once you get your methodology worked out.

Oh, almost forgot....for metal bits that are prone to "white" corrosion (e.g., zinc plated stuff) I`m doing very well with Wurth`s Rost Off. Cleans off the corrosion and leaves a bit of protection, and it`s not terribly messy stuff. I`m using this on things I keep too nice for messier products like Amsoil`s HD Metal Protector (which I still use for mission-critical stuff like under-vehicle spare tire hardware).

Jon, check out a product that ValuGard developed a couple of years ago for the trucking industry regarding this subject. It`s at valugard.net and I got a couple of samples and gave them to a couple of friends who own and operate over the road trucks. They are very pleased with what it does.

^^^^ SPAM`-Now deleted 11.14.2013

Jon, I think that it should be pointed out that just "cleaning` the undercarriage is not the fool proof way to insure that a vehicle does not corrode. If one reads the Federal Recalls for corrosion issues over the past 10 years, and the people take time to read and understand a vehicle manufacturer`s corrosion warranty, the issue is not "surface rust or corrosion", but rather "inside the cavatities of a vehicle. IE. Hyundia, Kia, Ford, Chrysler, etc and their recalls for corrosion. The term for this corrosion is "perforation" corrosion.


Each vehicle has "inner cavatities" that over time, allow the dirt, salt and mag cloride to collect and a normal washing is not going to flush those areas clean.


The introduction of "e-coat" to the paint process did improve the resistance to cavatity rusting, and, most important to the "eye" of a buyer, the surface paints.`


Problem is this, paint-IE E-coat is not really flexible, and at the hundreds of "seams", also referred to as hem flanges, etc it "cracks", not visable to the naked eye until the corrosion gets to where the paint starts to bubble and flake from areas such as the bottom hem flange on doors (the doors go through a lot of flexing over time) and the creates a crack in the e-coat and paint film for corrosives to enter, the edges of trunk lids, wheel arches, etc.


Federal Recalls do not normally address such concerns, but rather "vehicle safety" issues, such as frames, suspension components and such.`


Damaging corrosion is not what most think, and does not actually start from the "outside", but from inside the cavatities of a vehicle. Very difficult to "clean" out those areas.`


This why that in the 30`s a wax based product, from the UK was developed, Finnegan`s Anti Rust Protective. Over time, this product was improved upon, resulting in a much more robust and longer lasting protective anti-corrosion product.


People are not aware of the properties of such a product and confuse it with "undercoating", which is an entirely different product and is for use on the "out side" metal surfaces, not the inside of them. That is where the rust inhibitor/preventative product comes into use. It is "fogged" into the cavatities of the vehicle, including body panels, frames, sub frames , suspesion parts, etc.`


It is not an "oil` such as promoted highly in Canada and other countries, but a blend of synthetic waxes, which seek out all the surfaces, especially bare metal, it seeks out moisture and displaces it, covering the metal with it`s anti corrosive properties. The correct, tested and approved products DO NOT require "yearly" reapplications", do not "drip out" of the vehicle for weeks after application, do not affect any electrical components, such as inside doors and other areas, but actual enhance and protect such connectors, etc.


There have been study after study conducted on this corrosion protection.


The latest standards were published by SAE and ASTM last year.


The specs for approved products are SAE-J2334 and ASTM-117B. If one is going to purchase such products, make sure they state on their literature or packaging that they meet or exceed these automotive manufacturers standards.


The old "salting" the roads rusted out a lot of vehicles ,but the new mag cloride continues to attack right through summer, etc due to it`s reaction with any moisture to it`s chemical makeup.


In Canada, this chemical is used on gravel roads to keep down the dust, however, when it rains, it gets very corrosive and is thrown up into the under body areas, including frames, etc.

Ron Ketcham- Is there any sort of QC on the shops applying the ValuGard rust preventative? A body/paint shop in my area is advertising it, but it`s one of those shops I wouldn`t normally patronize and I question whether they`d really be doing top-shelf work.

(Not really thinking about taking one of *my* vehicles...for those I`m more likely to just get a better gun and DIY with the stuff you sent me all those years ago.)

They have the video for application,(same as on the valugard.net website under training video`s) plus a printed manual for applications, showing access points, how to reach them, etc for various types of vehicles, cars, suv`s, van`s, pickups, etc. You were involved in the car business, so you realize the old adage about leading a horse to water, but making them drink is something else.


The local rep is available in most large cities and usually conducts an application training session.


That does not mean that once he leaves they don`t take short cuts.


Just the world we live in.

Ron Ketcham- Yeah, copy all that.` I would`ve liked to hear there was some rigorous certification, but, well, you know how feasibility factors in (that damn Real World stuff again).


`


I`m fortunate in that the only vehicles I might do this too are stoneage-simple, with no "mystery cavities" (well, at least they`re not a mystery to me)- the (Old Body Style) Tahoe and maybe a few spots on the Crown Vics, not that those go out in the salt.


`


Gotta say the Audis are really well built`in this respect.` Yeah, the D2 cars (A8/S8) are primarily aluminum, but the steel bits are staying rust-free.` And that old `93 V8 is primarily steel yet after 20 Ohio winters it has zero corrosion anywhere.` I do like to think that my ministrations factor in though ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Accumulator

Ron Ketcham- Yeah, copy all that.` I would`ve liked to hear there was some rigorous certification, but, well, you know how feasibility factors in (that damn Real World stuff again).


`


I`m fortunate in that the only vehicles I might do this too are stoneage-simple, with no "mystery cavities" (well, at least they`re not a mystery to me)- the (Old Body Style) Tahoe and maybe a few spots on the Crown Vics, not that those go out in the salt.


`


(Note to self: be grateful that`the old rustproofing guy spent the time to teach me about doing this stuff right all those years ago.)


`


Gotta say the Audis are really well built`in this respect.` Yeah, the D2 cars (A8/S8) are primarily aluminum, but the steel bits are staying rust-free.` And that old `93 V8 is primarily steel yet after 20 Ohio winters it has zero corrosion anywhere.` I do like to think that my ministrations factor in though ;)

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Great thread. Even here in NM the roads are salted. But I just wanted to add my two cents about the undercarriage pressure washer mentioned and pictured in TOGWT`s post above


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http://pri-industries-inc.amazonwebs...B0065OYYQQ.htm


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that it produces more of a mist then a high pressure stream that I`d hoped it would. Someday I`ll get around to replacing those jets with something that produces a more powerful stream.


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//edit


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I`m using a 2K PSI Karcher.

No matter the "pressure" of the spray, unfortunate that will not actually reach in and flush the corrosives from the inner cavatities that one can not see unless the panels are cut off and such so one can actually see just how the vehicle was put together, IE spot welds, hem flanges wrapped over a door frame or such.


I once took a series of pictures of a Ford F series that Ford had done for the trade shows, and wish I still had them in my photo files.`


You would then be able to see and comprehend what I have posted.`


Any experienced bodyshop metal person knows this and could and should, attempt to bring it to the attention of `those who only consider the "outside" paint, etc to be the concern.`


Paint today is one thing, it is what people "see" and react to, but have not a clue of "what is behind the panels and paint surface" they love to look at.


Aluminum,== it corrodes in a different manner, but as Ford and some other manufacturers learned, let a hem flange get a small fracture in the e-coat and there is a paint failure problem that will happen. Just do some research on that item and you will find it was and still is, a major corrosion issue.`


A vehicle structure is in reality acts just like a "battery", and consider that when thinking about automotive corrosion issues.


Oil used to stop or such is just a temporary fix, and as those in Canada are aware, when they buy the "rust proofing" from companies, they require reapplication on a regular basis as oil "evaporates", it goes away, and with that goes the protection from corrosion.


If one goes to the ValuGard.net website or a Hyundai forum website, there are TSB`s which were issued, as well as Ford, etc, which goes into great detail of "those inner panels, suspension components parts" that are being eaten away today on vehicles that are less than 3 years old.