Vehicle Preparation
If you have varying seasons where you live then you know what winter can do to your car. It’s a shame, but salt literally tears apart your interior from the door panels to the carpets. Come spring, it’s important to get rid of this completely. The danger of salt is that it dehydrates plastic, fibre, and virtually any surface inside and out of your car… contributing the deterioration of these finishes.
By shampooing floor mats, carpets, and any affected interior surfaces, you’re stopping salt in its tracks and refresh the look of your entire car. There’s no better time than the turn of a season to get this done, as spring usually marks the end of snow, road salt, and brine solution.
After a long winter of wear and tear through snow, salt, volcanic dust and now pollen; your car will be in need of a little TLC. Summer brings with it not only pleasant weather and the lure of the beach, but like winter, its own vehicle cleaning / and preparation regime
Now is a good time to treat your car to a spring clean. Salt is a corrosive and will cause rusting if left on the bodywork. If possible take your car to a car wash that specialises in under-car cleaning to get rid of every trace.
Corrosion
Detailer`s clay and decontamination are two different processes. The abrasives `shear` the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage
While clay products are useful for removing paint overspray (this is what the product was originally formulated for) and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot permeate and deep clean the pores of the paint. So unless a paint decontamination system is used; heat and moisture will react with the metallic particle and continue the corrosion process
Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle’s paint surfaces.
The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms)
Environmental damage to paint comes in a varied range of threats; acid rain, road salt, tree sap, hydrazine an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, industrial fallout, ultra violet radiation (UV) and other airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. They are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic. During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Given the porosity of paint they permeate the paint matrix down to body metal.
Although present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces, especially white. These contaminants are invisible to the naked eye, once they start to oxidise, and turn orange; this is when the problem will be brought to your attention, even on brand new vehicles.
Given that some contaminant residue (acid rain, industrial fallout, sintered brake or rail dust) are usually highly acidic and / or will permeate a paint surface, it makes far more sense to remove them chemically and neutralize the paint surface rather than by using an abrasive polish, as dissolving them using a paint decontamination system and then rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk of causing surface scratches.
Paint Decontamination System
This system is the most recognized by original equipment manufacturers (OEM’s as well as their paint suppliers, BASF, DuPont, and PPG approved chemical neutralization system in the industry. In fact, major auto manufactures have issued technical service bulletins/advisories directing their dealers and port operations to use the ValuGard System for required repairs and pre-treatment for acid rain and industrial fallout repairs.
This system removes, industrial fallout, rail dust, acid rain, oxidation, silicone and waxes, tar and road grime, tree sap, love bugs and other insects, bird droppings, and hard water spots. No other paint cleaning method removes paint contaminants this efficiently. A three step system with a sequence of neutralization and neutralizing wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants.
Revitalizing
Whether it is your car’s vinyl (1z einszett Vinyl Rubber Care & Potectant "Tiefenpfleger”) finished leather upholstery (Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Vital) - Not for use with N-Nubuck / Alcantara This is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre by rehydration and to ensure the leather remains soft and supple. Conditioning products are an important detailing step that cannot be overlooked, especially come spring. You can usually tell by the appearance of plastic and vinyl trim and rubber if it needs revitalizing or not because it will look faded, dry, or cracked. Often it is thought that a simple clean will do the trick, but unfortunately this is not the case. Conditioning helps to restore the various surfaces of your car, lengthening their individual lifespan as well as your vehicles.
Exterior
It should go without saying that if you care about preserving your car’s look at all, you don’t take your car to an automated car wash with huge brush rollers or a touch less wash with their harsh chemicals. And you don’t let so-called professionals using a hand-car-wash technique wash it either, especially those hired by a dealership or a service centre. These people use the same soap bucket from car to car and haven’t the slightest clue about proper car washing techniques. Same thing goes for high-school fund raiser`s, just give them the money and drive on, they won`t be offended
Corrosion
While clay products are useful for removing paint overspray (this is what the product was originally formulated for) and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot permeate and deep clean the pores of the paint. So unless a paint decontamination system is used; heat and moisture will react with the metallic particle and continue the corrosion process
Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle’s paint surfaces.
The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms)
Environmental damage to paint comes in a varied range of threats; acid rain, road salt, tree sap, hydrazine an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, industrial fallout, ultra violet radiation (UV) and other airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface.
They are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic. During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Given the porosity of paint they permeate the paint matrix down to body metal.
Although present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces, especially white. These contaminants are invisible to the naked eye, once they start to oxidise, and turn orange; this is when the problem will be brought to your attention, even on brand new vehicles.
Given that some contaminant residue (acid rain, industrial fallout, sintered brake or rail dust) are usually highly acidic and / or will permeate a paint surface, it makes far more sense to remove them chemically and neutralize the paint surface rather than by using an abrasive polish, as dissolving them using a paint decontamination system and then rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk of causing surface scratches.
Wheels
A major piece in post winter detailing focuses on wheels. Salt contributes to the corrosion of metals and alloys that commonly make up the rims of your car, potentially etching and damaging them to the point of repair. By detailing your wheels and following it up with a wheel protectant, you not only will have spotless wheels, but they’ll have the protection to stay that way for an extended period of time. One factor to keep in mind is to find a wheel protectant with a high melting point to ensure the longevity and endurance of the product. A polymer or synthetic wax will protect against brake dust etching, corrosion, and even hot tar encountered on the road.
Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today`s wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces.
• Use detailing clay and lubrication to remove any embedded contaminants
• Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar or oil. Apply P21S Total Auto Wash to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing
• Spray P21S Wheel Cleaner (Gel or Liquid) this cleaner is 100% acid-free and will not damage any type of wheel finish. (Gel for badly soiled and regular for normal soil) onto wheel rims and lat soak in
• For badly brake dust soiled surfaces use C.Quartz IronX or Sonax Wheel Cleaner both are formulated with neutralised acid salt. Spray onto wheel surface, allow to react, and then agitate with a wheel brush before hosing off
• To remove salt contamination -See Undercarriage Cleaning & Care
Spare Wheel / Tyre
Check the pressure and condition of your spare tyre periodically, if your vehicle has the spare underneath, check its mounting hardware and spray periodically with AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector. Also check the cars jack and wheel nut remover and have a drop cloth and a pair of cloves available. If you have after-market wheels be sure you have suitable wheel nuts available for the spare wheel
Tyre Cleaning
The porous nature of rubber attracts oils, dirt, brake dust and road grime. For any type of protection to work efficiently on rubber it must be able to adhere to the surface. First remove any brake dust, blooming, road tar, grease and grime, silicone and oxidized rubber from the surface to properly clean it. The key to tyre dressing durability is deep cleaning the tyre, spray or apply your cleaner allow to soak in for a minute or two and then scrub with a fairly stiff tyre brush, once clean you should be able to take an old white dry terry towel and rub the tyre surface, it should be almost pristine (if not repeat). Tyre cleaner needs to be strong enough to tackle a heavy build-up of tyre dressings, silicone and road grime, but not damage wheel coatings.
A quality citrus-based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) should clean the tyres down to the original rubber surface, this is especially important when you apply a new dressing, as dressings won`t adhere to, or create the right shine on dirty rubber or silicone residue. This tyre cleaner is a strong concentrate; spray-and-rinse, without scrubbing, if you are starting on an old, neglected surface, use a fairly stiff tyre brush for the first application and a spray & rinse at least 3-4 times a year
Alternative products – Optimum™ Polymer Technologies - Power Clean (diluted 3:1: to 5:1) or Griot`s Garage - Rubber Cleaner
Wheel Wells
Those plastic parts see the harshest conditions and are subjected to all the elements. The liner is usually made from SMC (an unsaturated polyester resin) periodically remove the wheels (one at a time utilizing a car jack and / or axle stands) to enable cleaning the back of the wheel, callipers and give better access to the wheel wells. Ensure that the vehicle body is secure by placing on axle stands.
1. Rinse wheel well thoroughly with water.
2. Use a 1:1 solution of P21 Total Auto Wash a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner and water in a spray bottle, spray the wheel wells and let the solution remain in place for 3-5 min
3. Agitate and brush the road dirt / grime the wheel well and suspension parts, brake callipers, etc
4. Spray the area thoroughly with a high pressure water spray
5. Remove any road asphalt with a safe solvent (Stoners Tarminator)
6. Repeat if necessary
7. Use P21S Polishing Soap on all metal parts (taking care to avoid the brakes)
8. Rinse using a high pressure hose / nozzle to remove soap residue
9. I recommended wearing rubber gloves, once finished, rinse the wheel wells and dry them with an old terry towel.
10. Once they have thoroughly dried, spray with 1z einszett Tiefenpfleger -Vinyl-Rubber Care and Protectant, Adam’s Undercarriage Detailer or Chemical Guys Bare Bones (avoid spraying the brake rotor)
These products leave a matte finish, (not solvent-based silicone dressings) without grease that attracts dirt / dust. Provides protection for the plastic ducts
Paint Surface
ValuGard Paint Decontamination System - This system is the most recognized by original equipment manufacturers (OEM’s as well as their paint suppliers, BASF, DuPont, and PPG approved chemical neutralization system in the industry. In fact, major auto manufactures have issued technical service bulletins/advisories directing their dealers and port operations to use the ValuGard System for required repairs and pre-treatment for acid rain and industrial fallout repairs.
This system removes, industrial fallout, rail dust, acid rain, oxidation, silicone and waxes, tar and road grime, tree sap, love bugs and other insects, bird droppings, and hard water spots. No other paint cleaning method removes paint contaminants this efficiently. A three step system with a sequence of neutralization and neutralizing wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants.
Acid Neutralizer
Removes all waxes, sealant, silicones, road grime, lot stains and storage stains and neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint during transportation and storage.
Removes storage / dealer lot stains and wax build-up. Excellent pre-wash for body shops - removes silicones, waxes and other contaminates before sanding.
Alkaline Neutralizer
The second step of our Neutralization System, which deep-cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits. Also dissolves ferrous metal particles (rail dust) while breaking their bond to the paint so that they safely and easily float away.
Detail Wash
The third step in the neutralization process, Detail Wash is a fine vehicle wash solution designed to return the paint to its original factory pH level. A true neutral carwash shampoo not a soap, it will not strip waxes or sealants and is safe for use on all painted surfaces, trim and wheels. Excellent for everyday use, Detail Wash produces super long-lasting suds that remove dirt without stripping waxes, polishes or sealants. 128:1 super concentrate
The Alkaline Neutralizer removes such a broad range of contaminants that it is in a different category from the ferrous iron particulate removal systems (Iron X et al) and is therefore one of the best product out there for ‘everyday’ acid decontamination needs
The acids used in both Finish Kare and ValuGuard decontamination system are phosphoric and sulphuric acids, both strong acids that readily dissociate and are very effective in dissolving the metallic component of brake dust allowing the carbon component to be rinsed away
A three step neutralization and wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants. I would recommend the use of this system for new or new to you vehicles as part of your new car prep
Leaves paint surface uncontaminated for application of wax, polish or sealant. Allows for correct repair of superficial paint damage, reduces buff time on pre-owned vehicles. Thoroughly rinse the vehicle surfaces with clean water before application as this removes and softens hardened dirt deposits.
Proper surface drying techniques- this is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface; On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose, reduce the water pressure and hold the end of the hose parallel to the paint and reasonably close as this is will prevent splashing as you flood the surface. Follow up with a waffle weave micro fibre towel to thoroughly dry the paint surface
These techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Using a chemical paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive polish and pad combination (working smarter not harder)
Undercarriage Cleaning & Care
Your vehicle’s undercarriage; it’s what you don`t see that silently awaits underneath your cars. Removing sprayed brine solution to protect your undercarriage is just as important as detailing the paint. Wheel wells, sub-frame, springs, fender well and all of the other black and gray parts underneath the body need detailing too.
Although dry salt is inert 15 – 20.oF (9 – 29.oC) is considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow and ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the sprayed brine solution (pH 8.5) used on roads will have an adverse effect (the formation of rust and/or corrosion) on the vehicles paint and undercarriage. Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2) attracts moisture from the air making it more aggressive than salt because it is active even when dry. Magnesium Chloride is basically liquid rust. It clings to everything and it attracts moisture – and it does not wash off easily.
After removing dirt, road grime, and etc with P21S High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum™ Polymer Technologies - Power Clean- use a pressure washer
Never go underneath a car supported by the supplied jack - always use axle stands if you wish to work underneath the car. Always jack the car up at the manufacturer`s recommended jacking points. Ensure the jack is in stable contact with both the jacking point (see owner`s manual) and the ground. Always work on level ground.
High Pressure Under body Lance
Angled spray lance specifically designed to clean those hard to reach areas under the wheel arches and the under carriage.
Methodology - (a) thoroughly spray an undiluted citrus cleaner (P2IS Total Auto Wash) and let it soak in; remove by thoroughly rinsing with water. If you have a pressure washer available, fill tank with citrus cleaner and spray undercarriage (do not use excess pressure as water may penetrate crevices and seams where it cannot drain, causing corrosion), let it soak and then remove with plain water.
(b) Spray undercarriage with ValuGuard Proguard Magnesium Chloride Remover - An alkaline (pH 12) liquid concentrate, a blend of detergents that penetrates and disperses road and salt film, which after rinsing leaves the surface charged to repel dirt and soil. Low foam for better penetration into seams where Magnesium Chloride is difficult to remove
VG 502 cleans Magnesium Chloride residue from all surfaces and will help brighten aluminum surfaces without etching and also works well to remove bugs, tar, and asphalt. Designed to be applied by brush, moderate or high pressure spray, and can also be used in steam cleaning applications. Completely biodegradable
Directions: For general washing mix 20–1 Wash vehicle with brush or wash mitt and allow to soak for two three minutes then rinse with high pressure water.
Do not allow to dry on vehicle. For cleaning tough areas like wheel wells, chassis, and very soiled wheels apply VG-502 at 1-1 mix to wet surface, allow to set for 3-5 minutes, Agitate as needed and then rinse with moderate to high-pressure water spray for a clean surface. Dry all painted and glass surfaces after rinsing to prevent water spotting.
Polishing Paint Surfaces
When performing this level of single-step polishing, you`re typically trying to accomplish as much correction as you can while at the same time finishing down very well for a 1-step polish.Menzerna Power Finish PO203S a Lake County (LC) Orange or a Green pad
Paint Protection
For a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay or corrective surface polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner (Zaino or Klasse All-In-One) They contains a mix of micro abrasives and cleaning agents that remove oxidisation and ingrained dirt to ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other residue, this will enable an efficient bonding with the paint surface and also ensure product durability. The paint cleaner’s suggested above can sometimes be used instead of detailers clay if the ‘bag test’ doesn’t reveal contaminates but the surface looks ‘soiled’ use a chemical surface cleaner (especially on light coloured paint)
Machine Application - the advantage of using a random orbital machine to apply these products is that it spreads a thin and even coating and requires much less effort than hand application; the downside is that it uses slightly more product.
Methodology- use a slightly damp, Black Lake County (or equivalent) 75 PPI foam pad at medium / low speed. Removing that thin layer once it`s dry should be almost effortless. A quick wipe with a clean, dry microfiber towel is all it takes.
Exterior - Rubber and Vinyl
Periodically clean using Iz einszett `Plastik-Reiniger` an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic two-phase deep cleaner for urethane covered upholstery and vinyl trim, that removes grime build-up thoroughly and effortlessly, these chemicals restore your vinyl’s original texture tactile feel and resiliency; use to clean all coloured and clear water-based acrylic polyurethane covered automotive upholstery; this product is biodegradable, formalin-free and environmentally friendly..
Applications - wash vinyl surfaces with soapy water and rinse with clean water and then thoroughly dry. Then use 1z einszett Plastik Reiniger. Do not use products that contain petroleum distillates as urethane absorbs them and causes it to yellow.
Protection - with 1z einszett Vinyl Rubber Care & Potectant "Tiefenpfleger” provides a temperature-resistant seal and a low-shine matte finish Dust-resistant and retards the fading effects of UV rays to keep exterior ‘rubber’ and vinyl looking like new. UV-B protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular basis (dependent upon location climatic condition)
Application - Spray onto a clean micro fibre towel, agitate it well and then allow it to remain in place for 10-15 minutes. Finally using a clean micro fibre towel buff it to ensure it permeates
Exterior Glass Surfaces
I usually advocate spraying car care products (Stoners Invisible Glass ™) on to a towel and not directly onto the surface being detailed. The exception to this is when cleaning glass, rather than letting the cleaner soak into the towel, which results in insufficient product as a large majority is absorbed by the towel, better results will be achieved by soaking the dirt / grease residue on the glass surface.
Glass cleaning products contain a combination of ingredients including alcohol, ammonia, and detergents that will clean, but may also cause steaks. Depending on how fast or slow these ingredients evaporate, and their concentration, streaking problems may occur.
The residue from these ingredients sometimes dries and evaporates on the glass before they are removed .As with all chemicals they need a certain amount of time to work, so allow area to soak for a few minutes, dry the glass with a clean, dry towel. For each area of glass use the clean side of a folded towel
Exhaust Tailpipe
Two things that can ruin the freshly detailed look of a vehicle; dirty glass or exhaust tips; the exhaust tips can sometimes make or break the rear view of an otherwise pristine vehicle. Spray down the inside and outside of the tips with P21S Total Auto Wash or P21S Polishing Soap, allow to remain in place, it will to start break down the grime. To clean the outside parts of the exhaust use either a Mini E-Z Detail brush (they are perfect for cleaning the areas between dual-tips) or an old micro fibre used strictly for dirty jobs and Optimum Metal Polish.
Wipe down the (inside and outside) exhaust tips to remove initial carbon deposit and any water ‘spots’ using P21S Total Auto Wash and a micro fibre towel. Polish using P21S Polishing Soap (not intended for use on painted, clear coated or anodized surfaces) and/or Optimum Metal Polish and a terry cloth towel on the insides of the tips
Now move on to the outside of the tips once again with Optimum Metal Polish and an older microfiber towel that is no longer used for the painted surfaces, ensure to polish with the grain. Finish Kare FK1000P or Zoopseal are ideal choice as protection as they are both designed to withstand high temp and are extremely durable.
Interior
Vacuum interior surfaces to remove loose dirt / grit and then wipe with a damp micro fibre towel Use1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium, this contains a UV-B ultra violet protection for the interior surfaces
Carpets
Carpeted floor mats: Floor mats take a majority of the wear away from the interior carpet. However, this leaves floor mats with soiling as well as oily stains. Inspect for oily stains.
Use a solvent-based spot remover to remove oily stains. Spot treat really bad stains (303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover or Woolite Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam)
Pour a small amount of cleaner onto a terry towel and wiping toward the centre of the stain to remove the spot. Clean normal to heavy soiling as described above. Floor mats may get as wet as necessary to properly clean them.
Normal cleaning- brush loose dirt/dust with a stiff brush, lightly spray surface with a carpet cleaner (Woolite Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam) and let the foam to remain in place for 5-10 minutes and then remove residue.
Heavily soiled- brush loose dirt/dust with a stiff brush, use a citrus-based pre-cleaner P21S High Performance Total Auto Wash 10:1 distilled hot water, let solution to remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react, and then use a carpet extractor
The rubber backing and the ability to relocate them to a warm place (not direct sunlight) for quick drying aids their cleaning. After mats are clean and dried, brush them to raise the fibres and apply stain guard (303 High Tech Fabric Guard) to repel grease, dirt and oil based stains and provide UV protection against fabric fading.
Relevant Articles
1. “ValuGard Paint Decontamination System” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...on-system.html
2. “Repairing Stone chips” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...one-chips.html
3. “Undercarriage Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ml#post1465218
4. “What will decontamination remove that washing / clay will not? “ - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...-will-not.html
5. “Wheel Surface cleaning”- http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...-cleaning.html
6. “Interior Detailing Part I” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...ng-part-i.html
