Detailing Door Jambs (Door shuts)

1. Use P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum No Rinse (ONR), dilute the cleaner as necessary, using a damp micro fibre towel to go over the door jamb to remove excess grease etc.

2. Ensure all water drainage holes are clear

3. Take a Swissvax Detail Brush and ensure that you have got into the corners, just lightly brush over it a couple of times.

4. For difficult to reach areas use the Mini E-Z Detail brush with a flexible shaft

5. Rinse it off using a wet microfiber towel, and dry thoroughly

6. Use a Carnauba wax or a spray (WOWA) polymer sealant Zanio Z-8 for protection

7. Repeat this process on the other side and carry on detailing the rest of your car

8. Check the hinge / latch lubrication, renew with a clear synthetic grease (WURTH Spray Grease Synthetic Lubricant) or white Lithium grease, as necessary

9. Apply WD-40 (water displacement) to lock as this will prevent moisture, rust and or freezing

10. Apply Graphite Lubricant to the door locks, hinges and latches

11. Remove dust / dirt from the rubber sleeves and apply Iz einszett Vinyl-Rubber Care`

12. While you are doing this part of the job, also clean the area around the boot lid, hood and inside the fuel filler flap and access area.

13. Clean the water channels in the trunk as well as under the hood.



Don’t forget the door sills / kick plates; use P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Cleanâ„¢) once clean and dry, they should be protected by applying a surface dressing to vinyl surfaces and either wax or sealant protection to painted surfaces.

One thing I`d do differently- On the painted areas I`d much rather polish those areas up and LSP them just like the rest of the vehicle.



Take it a little easy with the abrasives as some vehicles have only a light "fogging" of paint over the primer in these areas.



Yeah, it can take a while, but smoothing the paint up (those areas are often not to a very high standard from the factory, often they`re not even clearcoated) and using a slick LSP can make it a breeze to keep them nice, so it`s pretty much a one-time deal other than redoing the LSP maybe every other year or so (and I got several years out of six layers of KSG).



Other nice, as in "clean", dressings for the rubber bits include Wurth Rubber Care and their version of the Gummi Pflege (?sp?) stick. The 1Z version of the stick isn`t bad, but it doesn`t dry *quite* as clean as the Wurth stuff (but I doubt the diff will be worth the higher price to most people).



With the slick LSP over a smooth surface, it`s easy to clean them during the regular wash with a small BHB and diluted shampoo mix. The same BHB can be used to rinse. I also use a quick wipe with some QD while drying and this is one area where I can prefer a cotton towel for drying if it`s soft enough to not mar the paint.

"Take it a little easy with the abrasives as some vehicles have only a light "fogging" of paint over the primer in these areas."



Yes indeed... Honda Accord inner door bottoms.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Concourswanna b

"Take it a little easy with the abrasives as some vehicles have only a light "fogging" of paint over the primer in these areas."



Yes indeed... Honda Accord inner door bottoms.

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That`s good to know, especially with Honda Accords being so popular.



The Mazda MPV was that way; I just barely cut through with only 3M PI-III MG 05937, one light polishing with a 4" Cyclo pad on the PC. BTW, the resulting "exposed primer!" stayed 100% OK with KSG on it, merely looked like satin gray instead of silver.

I will heed the warning regarding the Accord jambs! Mine could use some more LSP....