I have a couple clients with a lot of fallout/rail dust. Traditionally I would use clay but I want to go this route instead.
My question is --- does anyone have experience with both types of product? If so, which one do you prefer and why?
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I have a couple clients with a lot of fallout/rail dust. Traditionally I would use clay but I want to go this route instead.
My question is --- does anyone have experience with both types of product? If so, which one do you prefer and why?
We use both products and they are simular but different. We generally use the IronX before claying a car before polishing or waxing, it is the stronger version of the two products. The soap gel is mainly a maintenance product, we would use this when the car just needs to be cleaned and shows some rail dust. The product is basically a shampoo with the ability to remove light iron deposits.
Thank you for your response. Looks like I will be ordering the iron remover.
I wasn`t too impressed with the sample of Iron-X I used a couple weeks back. It made the contaminants change color but didn`t noticeably loosen or remove them. I`ll keep trying to get a final assumption. You might also want to try this system:
ValuGard Neutralization System
It`s the only product that has been tested and proven to work as well be authorized/recommended by almost every vehicle manufacturer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Fermani
David, what was your process with the Iron-X when you used it?
I have used Iron-X a couple of times and I`m really quite impressed with it for ferrous deposits. It doesn`t do anything to non-ferrous contamination but that`s to be expected. Take a look at this video I shot to demo my process and results (best to watch it in 1080p):
YouTube - CarPro IronX Demo
I used a clay bar on the vehicle following this and it made a noticeable difference in terms of how much the clay was having to pick up, meaning it lasted longer and the whole process took less time.
I used it on the rear bumper of a pearl white Maybach that had brake dust deposits on it. Sprayed it on (had a tiny sample bottle), plugged my nose and let it sit for almost 5 minutes. It made the deposits bleed, but after I washed they were still there. I ended up just claying it. I also tried in on of the wheels and it reacted like crazy on some heavy buildup but again didn`t break into it.
With your video.....After you wiped off the surface, *if* you re-sprayed Iron-X back on, would it still make what`s left bleed? Or, would you say 100% of it was removed with your single application?
I haven`t tried multiple applications so I can`t say for certain it took 100% of the ferrous deposits.... but I have a white VW Jetta with a bunch of embedded ferrous deposits in my garage right now that I`ll be using IronX on tomorrow, so I`ll give that a shot to see what happens and report back.
As promised I tried out multiple applications of IronX to see what would happen. This particular subject is a white 2002 VW Jetta.
Here you can see the rust blooms we`re dealing with in the license plate area:
http://hahn-on-the.net/pictures/deta...onx/Before.jpg
IronX working its magic:
http://hahn-on-the.net/pictures/deta...onx/During.jpg
http://hahn-on-the.net/pictures/deta...loodbath_1.jpg
http://hahn-on-the.net/pictures/deta...loodbath_2.jpg
After wiping down and rinsing the first pass, I went back for a second application just to see what it would do. STILL dissolving more deposits!
http://hahn-on-the.net/pictures/deta...Secondpass.jpg
And finally, the results (after IronX, before clay):
http://hahn-on-the.net/pictures/deta...ronx/After.jpg
http://hahn-on-the.net/pictures/deta...onx/After2.jpg
So the answer is that no, IronX does not take 100% of the deposits in one pass; however it DOES make a significant improvement in a single pass. Had I let the product dwell even longer it may have been even better. Dwell time as I used it was 2-3 minutes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by autoobsessed
Oh [expletive] I guessed wrong :( For the intended application I probably oughta get the spray stuff....