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When I am detailing a car I always use the PC 7424 but when I am applying product and working it in; in previous posts I noticed that when you detail a car you work the product until it is buffed off but when I do it, it seems like it dries before i can completey buff it off. What I mean is the product begins to grab the pad and it is almost like it clumps up on the surface of the paint. What could it be?
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: I hate to love black
First ...welcome to DC....
That would depend on the product you are using...and how much....and where you were doing it,,,sun?...shade? ....hot? ,,,humid?
What are you using that does that?
I was using Meg`s #9 with a yellow pad and yea it was outside but it was humid, and I was working under the shade of a tree I applyed a half dollar dab on the hood and I began to work it on a quarter of the hood but it began to clump it the more I worked it in then it made it even harder to wipe it off. It was really frustrating.
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: I hate to love black
Waaaaay too much product. I usually put 3 or four nickel sized drops around the edge of the upraised section of the pad. Don`t try to do more than 1/4 of the hood at a time, otherwise you give the product too much time to dry on the surface and, well...you know the results.
I actually let #9 set for a whole hour once. I found the results to be better than wipe on and wipe off. Obviously it required some extreme buffing, but the end results were better.
Sounds like a double quick fix....use less product and the humidity is also part of the product....if you are using Meguiar`s products, you may want to consult their site for an alternative product to use in humid weather....you can also pm 2hotford...he knows Meguiars products very well;)
Thanks Guys I will try this. Poorboy when you say you put 4 or 5 nickel drops on the highest part of the pad and then work a 2 by 2 section of the hood for instance and work it until it is buffed off.
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: I hate to love black
Hey!
Thanks Poorboy! I know some! ;)
Meguiar`s #9 is not supposed to be buffed dry as the removal of the dried residue will re-introduce "micro-marring" back into the finish. When using #9, or #82 Swirl Free Polish, always keep a wet edge while buffing. If you feel that an area was not worked enough, add more #9 and continue buffing. Make sure that you wipe off the product BEFORE it dries!
The problem that I think you are having is that you may be using too much product, the surface temperature could be too high, the pad may be over-saturated (should be cleaned after a few panels), and the humidity might be high. Try and do the car when it is cooler like early morining, clean the pad often, and use a spray of QD on the residue on the more stubborn areas. Generally, if the product is hard too remove, you have probably worked it too long. Sometimes, you can do everything right and it will still be hard to remove. Just spray the residue with a little #34 Final Inspection and then remove.
When you are ready to glaze and if you live in a humid area:
Meguiar`s has a product called "#5 New Car Glaze". This product has been around for quite a while. The product is NOT "New". This product is in the family of #3, #7 and #81 Hand Polish. But unlike the others, it has been designed for high humid areas. I still prefer the depth and gloss of the #81 Hand Polish over #5 but the #5 is a lot easier to remove if you live in a humid area.
Good Luck!
see I told you he knows a lot about Meguiar`s products;)
GEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZ He knows his Megs but when you detail with the PC when you are trying to remove Micro Scratches off the hood for instance do where do you set the speed of the PC. And when you polish where do you usually set the speed of the PC.
Thanks again for the help I am striving to be the best detailer in my area
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: I hate to love black
Hey!
I would use the PC on speed #5 and leave it there for both Compound/cleaning and Polishing.
Cheers!
Tim
Well with my products I work around 4-5 range depending how deep the micro-scratching is...but I do actually move and spread product initially at 2-3 to get a nice even layer of product and then work it a bit more in the designated areas that you have the worst problems...flash time will differ from product to product depending on variables like weather , i.e. hot humid, cold , sun , shade ....type of application,i.e. hand, pc, rotary etc.. and the person doing the work.