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What`s your favorite (general) pad, product, and process?
I`m currently using a 5.5` gold pad with MenzNano, starting at speed 5-6 with medium pressure, backing down to 4-3, light pressure, a water spritz, no pressure until all is gone. This takes about 4mins per 2x2 section.
I might be wrong but I`m not sure jeweling with a DA is really doing anything. I used to drop the speed toward the last couple passes and lighten the pressure, but with the PC, I think higher speed is needed the entire time at least with polishing. now a sealant or wax then obviously I can use speed 3 or whatever. I`ve just basically come to the conclusion that jeweling is a rotary thing.
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Originally Posted by dublifecrisis
It could be that any improvements are just too subtle to be readily noticed. Once you get all the marring out, and a really nice gloss, any further improvements...well, they`re not gonna be earth-shaking. We`re talking about refining an "already perfect" finish.
I do my burnishing/jeweling with the Cyclo (and sometimes the PC) and it works fine for me. Gives me a very subtle, but noticeable, improvement on an already corrected finish.
I`ve heard there are paints where a rotary *is* mandatory, but I`ve never experienced that first-hand.
I do my burnishing/jeweling with a pad that has no functional cut (either a polishing or finishing) and a product that`s *barely* functionally abrasive on the paint in question. With the PC I usually use speed 4-4.5 but the fixed speed/aggressiveness of the Cyclo never seems to be a problem.
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Originally Posted by Accumulator
RMG and a megs polishing pad for example?
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Originally Posted by steelwind101
RMG applied with a PC is just fantastic. But I don`t think it`s at all abrasive?
As for the actual jeweling process, though, I`m still using the rotary. Although the KBM might change that.
My limited experience with jeweling with a UDM and PO85RD is close to Accumulator`s comments. There seems to be negligible improvement. PO85RD seems to have a very long work time too. I was using the high speed, light pressure, slow arm action, and black pad recommendations. I even tried a blue pad. Maybe my Ford paint is just about as good as it will get with all the orange peel. The paint is clear but think I wanted to see if I could extract more gloss.
BTW, The menzerna rep told be 106fa is nothing more than PO85RD with more "powder" so it works faster.
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Originally Posted by Bunky
Thats interesting! Wonder if that statement comes derives from a backlash to M205?? :D
FPII on a finishing pad
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Originally Posted by SuperBee364
Especially if you`re a `nuba guy like me. I`m not into doing one last jeweling step with a polish. Rather that`s where a glaze works for me which shows off a noticeable difference. RMG or DWG and also VM (which has nice chemical cleaning properties) come into play for me on every detail.
I frequently finish or jewel the paint with a Meg`s black pad and Meg`s #9. A lot of people bag on #9 but I think they are expecting it to be something it`s not. I like at think of #9 as #7 but with a minimal amount of cut. The finish it leaves is very similar to #7.
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Originally Posted by steelwind101
I must be the last guy on earth who`s never tried RMG!
Nah, I use whatever polish I think is close to nonabrasive or that at least finishes out that way (e.g., 1Z High Gloss or even the oh-so-mild Pro MP when used with a blue finishing pad on Audis). On soft paint like the Jag`s lacquer just a slightly aggressive use of Autoglym SRP (or even Pinnacle PCL) can do a bit of jeweling.
That reference to #9 sounds good too, depending on the paint in question. Glaze-like polishes (the PCL and VM) and AIOs (the SRP) and stuff like 1Z WPS can do a bit of jeweling along with their usual effects. IMO it gets to be a fine line separating one category from the other and I don`t really care which side of the line a product is on as long as it effects the desired improvement.
That`s why I like #9 for final polishing. It sits on the line between polish and glaze. Plus it is easier to work with than #7 on occasion.