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I`ve been using a PC for the last 5 years. I certainly can get the paint to shine but have I`ve had a hard time getting rid of swirls. I`ve tried Menzerna IP, FP, and 106ff with LC pads that are green, orange, yellow, and white. Do I need to go to a rotary? I now own two black cars.
My main questions with a rotary are as follows:
1. How do you make sure to avoid buring the paint or halograming the paint?
2. Can I use the same pads that i`ve used with the PC. I think they`re 6.5. What about a backing plate?
3. What`s a good rotary to buy? It looks like a lot people like the makita(i forget what number). A little better value than the metabo?
Thanks
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1. Keep the machine moving, and watch out for edges.
2. Yes same pads, you have to get different bp, they have different threads.
3. Hitachi is good in its price range, shell out for Metabo if going in the higher range.
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^^^ +1
and to add to #1, Tape up all areas that you think might be prone to burning. Trims, plastic, mouldings, etc.
The Hitachi is actually cheaper than the Makita. Metabo is alot lighter than both though. I did like the trigger and dial location on the Makita, but weight was a factor as well.
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When in doubt, tape off the edges.
Also, yes you will have to get a new backing plate. Depending on the size backing plate you get will determine if you will be able to use the 6.5" pads.
I am picking up the Makita 9227C because it has some weight to it which I don`t like to work more than I have too. Also, a lot of the pros on here like the Makita. Then again, if you got the money; metabo is also a choice.
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It must not be all about money because as we all know, the now famous Paul Dalton uses a makita and I dont think its because of the price.
I think if there was any detailer where price would not matter, it would be him.
Oh yea and I use a makita too lol I like it a lot.
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i posted a very similar thread to the OP about a year ago...(long time PC user thinking of a rotary). i bought a rotary...and so should you.
i couldnt obtain the level of finish i wanted with the PC, and the rotary was exactly what i needed.
two different beasts. hard to believe the rotary accoplishes what it does so quietly and slowly (slow speed).
not to worry, but you will make a few buffer trails and some holograms...but you already know to use the PC with a lighter polish to get rid of those....many still use the PC for Rotary follow up.
keep it moving...keep the pad well lubed (i actually use a squirt of oily glaze with my compounds and heavy cuts) to keep things slippery.
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oh also :
the 1st time you use your new rotary, for practice sake, use a finish pad (no cut) with a glaze type product (also very little cut and oily), and you should be able to slide the machine around for quite awhile without generating too much heat (if any)...just to get the hang of it !
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I have a hitachi and love it!! I recently made the step up after a few months of having a PC. The first time I used it was when I wetsanded the bed of a truck I just bought. The bed was repainted and had a bit of orange peel in it. I wet sanded it with 2000 grit, then used a yellow LC pad with SIP and it finished down beautifully!!!! Followed up with Z-AIO on a white pad, then used the PC for z5 Pro and Z2 Pro!! Everyone should have a rotary just to speed up the process a bit!!!
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If you really want to see if Rotary is your thing...and don`t want to spend a lot of money...go to Harbor Freight tools and buy theirs for about $40!
I bought that one and it has lasted me...FOREVER
You may want to buy a new backing plate as the one that comes with theirs SUCKS
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I`m not to fond of telling people to use junk to "see if they like it" It`s really not a fair comparison at all. It`s like telling someone the $20 two handled buffer at big lots is in the same ballpark as a UDM. And if someone bases a descision on using a peice of crap they might really miss out on what a truely quality machine can do for you. Not saying spend a ton of money. Ebay is a charm for the frugle and low budgets. Also just simply borrowing from someone that has one is a good option. I personaly would have zero issues of anyone coming up to my shop to try out any of my Rotary`s (Dewalt and Makita) on their own veichle to see if it`s what they are after.
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Thanks for all of the responses. I`m still a little concerned about burning the paint. What do you actually have to do to burn the paint? Are there warning signs?
Also, I saw on one of your responses you said some people go over their work with a pc when done. Is this true? It seems it would defeat the purpose.
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You can think of the process as a sanding process. The rotary will get rid of all the major defect while the PC will be used for anything minor and final polishing. You basically won`t use the PC in the same way you currently try to.
I stand by my therory burning paint only happens for 2 reasons. 1 you really don`t know your products that well or 2 your intentionally trying to burn paint. If you know your products it`s extreamly difficult to burn paint. It should be a very very minimal worry. Taping off the rubber mouldings and such is a great idea though because those you can (and will) burn through in half a heartbeat if not careful.
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Thank you guys for the tips.
