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  1. #1

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    Can you go from 2.5 to a topper????

    Do you haev to follow up with a lighter polish or can you top 2.5 with EX???

  2. #2
    COME AT ME BRO JaredPointer's Avatar
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    Yes you can. Many people on here have said they do that, although on my personal vehicle I like to use other things before going right to the wax/sealant.
    I still don`t believe in grit guards.

  3. #3
    Adopt a shelter pet! JimS's Avatar
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    I used 2.5 for the first time last weekend and was thrilled with the results. I followed it with PP and then EX but I don`t think I needed to use the PP. I think that working R2.5 until it dusts leaves just as good a shine as going over it with R1 or PP. Next time I have occasion to use r2.5 I`ll follow it up with the topper and save an hour or more work.

    A good test might be to do part of one panel with PP or SSR 1 after the 2.5 and see what difference you can see. I think maybe I`ll do a small spot with SSR 2.5 and see if it dulls what I`ve done with the PP topped with EX. I`ll bet I`ll not be able to see the difference.
    Dream big and be willing to do the work to get there.

  4. #4
    GOT PREP? EBPcivicsi's Avatar
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    I say that if it is worked properly you can certainly go to your wax/sealant.

    Having said that, on my own car or for a customer who wanted perfection, a final polish will certainly add to the look.
    Word of Mouth Detailing
    A man with experience is not at the mercy of a man with an opinion

  5. #5
    COME AT ME BRO JaredPointer's Avatar
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    I suppose it would also depend on the pad you use to apply the SSR2.5 with, wouldn`t it?
    I still don`t believe in grit guards.

  6. #6
    Scott P's Avatar
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    You shold be able to go right from 2.5 to a wax or sealant if you are using a polishing pad. I still like to use either Pro Polish, SSR1 or Vanilla Moose as an intermediate step though.
    "The trouble is that you think you have time." - Jack Kornfeld

  7. #7
    Ace Of Spades's Avatar
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    I go from 2.5 to a sealant all the time. As stated above though, your process has to break the abrasives in the 2.5 all the way down to leave that final polish look. My experience has been to use a rotary with a cutting pad to accomplish this. The heat generated by the rotary really helps break down the product. It can be done with a PC, but be prepared to spend a lot more time doing it.

    As Jared stated, on my own vehicles, I usually throw on a final polish anyway such as SSR1 or Vanilla Moose.

    That 2.5 is some good stuff!
    I love the smell of EX-P in the morning.

  8. #8
    Livin' the good life
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    I just did my first detail with a PC using SSR2.5 on a yellow LC pad. I had a feeling I could have gone directly to VM but, being a noobie, I decided to stick to my plan and used FPII before the VM.

    Probably could have saved a step but I didn`t have the background to make that decision.

    SSR2.5 is a FABULOUS product.
    There`s a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".

  9. #9
    tkr128's Avatar
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    I did it on my last detail. SSR2.5 with LC yellow pad to EX. It was a silver car so I didn`t have any visible marring from the cuttiing pad. I don`t think I could`ve done it if it was a dark colored car.

  10. #10
    2002 Chevrolet Corvette
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    I went from SSR2.5 to EX on both my parents light colored Acura RLs. When I did my Legend with SSR1 (first time with PC) I don`t think I worked in SSR1 enough. I plan to start over next month with SSR2.5 (worked in A LOT) then 2 or 3 coats of EX followed by 2 or 3 coats of Natty`s.

  11. #11
    This Site Rocks! gnev8's Avatar
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    Hey LSMAN: What`s up??
    I am going to do r2.5, r1, EX-P, Natty`s.
    As soon as I get my PC.
    I just oredered one I can`t wait.

    Sunday is still a maybe for me. I may be tied up until 1 or 2pm.
    Maybe I can meet up after the uw, when you`re on the road to Snoq Falls.
    I live on the eastside.
    I`ll keep you posted over the weekend.
    95 Acura Legend Sedan - Granada Black Pearl
    97 Toyota Landcruiser - 40th Anniversary Edition

 

 

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