Ssr3

[JimS]

Originally posted by Poorboy

my computer and i are mentally challenged in those departments

Aha! Now I see why the pics I mailed you never made it to your web site! Now I understand!! You may be as challanged puter-wise as this old guy!.

[Rosso Scuderia]

I disagree about the pads. You need to use a pad that matches your product. Hell if you want to use a finishing pad with DACP then be my guest, however the job might only require #9. In my opinion it is both the product and the pad that does the work and both are important to achieve a result. I use Lake Country pads, but the Edge are good too. I haven`t tried Meg`s buffer pads. The buffer is the machine doing the work, so it is important that you outfit it with the best quality pads.

[JimS]

Originally posted by Poorboy
Wait until you try the SSR2.5 what a great product to use after SSR3 or instead of it for many case

Put me down for a bottle when it`s ready Steve.

[Big Leegr]

Yep. Dug up another old one.:nono
Hey, it has relevance, I think.

So here I am, looking at this brown Buick Skyhawk (`84?). It belongs to an older lady who runs out with a ccd daily and moves it to a shady spot 2 or 3 times a day. From a distance the car looks to be in really good shape, just dull/oxidized. When you get close, you see the dullness is due to the cracked paint:eek .
She says she`s waxed it herself for years before, but it`s getting too hard now, so she wanted to get someone else to do it. Enter me (girlfriend`s mom knows the lady).

So I try another brand of stuff similar to SSR2.5. Didn`t work. Left white patterns where the pc went. (Maybe the paint was too dry? Maybe the cracks were catching the product? dunno.) Anyway, I was getting worried. It`s bad enough to have a dull car with oxidation on the hood/roof/trunk, but it would be worse to have buffer patterns too!:bigscream

So I figger, What`s the worst that can happen? The paint`s trashed. Let`s experiment. (disclaimer: many "worst that could happen" things can happen! Do not try this at home-especially not on somebody`s pride and joy!)
So I get my ssr3-it`s been sitting unused for months since I`ve read about how powerful it is. I get my med cut and heavy cut pads :wait . Yeah I was going all out. Again, this is a car that has cracked paint and was very white-ish with oxidation.

Let me tell you, my confidence in Steve`s products just keeps getting higher and higher. Even with ssr3 and a heavy cutting pad (I would not likely even think about this combo on a paint job in decently good shape) I was able to get the oxidation off and smooth the surface without causing more marring (at least none that was noticable on the cracked paint. Non-cracked paint may be another story, but I`m not likely to find that out anytime soon). It broke down easily, wiped off easily and when I finished with the ssr3/heavy cutting pad, I probably could have turned it in as done, there was such a noticable difference. (I didn`t. I went over again with ssr2, a glaze (hoping that might `fill` some of the cracks, and sealed it)

So in closing, I`m happy with ssr3`s ability to get rid of heavy oxidation and leave a pretty nice surface behind. I`m even happier with the safety features included at no extra charge so that even the novice/weekend warrior can feel like a "waxing god" without much fear of destroying the car so much that they have to find a real "waxing god" to fix their Oops.

What`s that you say? You with your hands up?
:showpics
Well yes. That would be helpful, but I really didn`t think there would be a marked difference, so all I took were afters, which are not developed, and I don`t have a scanner hooked up to my computer...
:showorgo
Well then, I guess I`m done here.:-p

[wifehatescar]

SSR3 is not so agressive people should be afraid of it. I have only used a rotary 3 times, and just used SSR3 with it at 1700rpm. No problems here. (Because of the high solids content it did gum up a bit but not too bad)

[NattyBumppo]

Big Leegr...you are a brave person! I wouldn`t have the nuts to use SSR3 with a heay cutting pad on someone elses car.

Rosso.....in general, I agree you match the product to the pad. But, someone here (I won`t mention Poorboy`s names )showed me first hand how to let the product do the work. On a black car with pretty negelcted paint I was getting nowhere with DACP and a light cut pad so I moved to a light compound and a light cut pad. It was working fairly well but there were still paint problems left behind plus the compound/light cut pad combo (not a Poorboy`s compound) was leaving some haze behind as well. Steve grabbed the rotary from my hands and proceeded to use SSR3 with a white, fine polish pad at about 2500 rpm! This pad is practically a finishing pad and I`ve used it that way many times. The result.....an 80% improvement in the overall finish wth zero haze. All that was needed was an application of SSR1 and the paint was awesome.

I`ve also used Meg`s Swirl Free Polish first with a polishing pad then followed up with the same polish and a finishing pad....that works very well.