Newbie Freakin` Out after using SSR2.5 on new 2010 8 week old black G37

[Chubs]

Well sounds like you`ve had some good recommendations. I`m just going to back them up it seems like.
First off Poorboy`s has some great products as most of my arsenal has become PB`s. SSR2.5 like most of PB`s polishes and compounds breaks down (or diminishes) as u use it. In SSR2.5`s case it starts out aggressive and then it gets finer as you work with it. Using a DA or rotary polisher accomplishes this very easily. Hand application is a bit harder to do and takes time. Especially on a black car!! So go back over the marred area again with SSR2.5 and work it longer with medium pressure to start and getting lighter as you work it in using a circular motion. Then switch to SSR1 and work that in just like SSR2.5. Finish off with Black Hole and then wax. It should look pretty good.
Give yourself some time to learn these products especially on black. It`s a hard color to correct scratches on even for experienced detailers.
It`s also been said in previous posts, give Steve a call at Poorboy`s. He`s a great guy to talk to that can help you with any problem that you may have.

Just keep telling yourself... "Black is beautiful!!"

Chubs

[MAD992]

well said chubbs

[Redwings97]

Since I am in the Dallas area, I sent Rock star a PM to let him know I would be happy to meet up with him and help him out.

[tuscarora dave]

Since I am in the Dallas area, I sent Rock star a PM to let him know I would be happy to meet up with him and help him out.

Good man Trent. To the OP, This guy will definately get the results you are looking for. You can learn a lot from him if you pay attention.

I am glad to see that you will be getting straightened out.

[Poorboy]

Thanks everyone for the responses... I have written to him by e-mail and sent this response should he not return to view this thread...

Sorry to hear of your headaches. Working by hand takes patience and the correct procedure. You will need either a good collection of cotton towels or foam hand polishing pads. You were correct to work back and forth. Do not polish in circles by hand or you will create more problems. You must work very small areas at a time with SSR2.5 by hand. I`m talking inches not panels!!! Working on black is also very tricky as it shows everything. You must work the SSR2.5 until it basically disappears. If you stop early you will have hazing and more scuffing as you will not have broken down the diminishing abrasives. After the swirls / scratches have been removed or minimized, you must follow with either SSR2 or SSR1 or Professional Polish in the same manor (back and forth in small sections). When you are finished, there should be no haze but there is a possibility of some minor swirls or scratches left behind as working by hand is no match for a machine unless you have a lot of experience working by hand. This is where Black Hole comes in to help fill and hide. You must apply Black Hole with a soft towel, but use the same pressure and motion as the polish. Then apply the Natty`s Blue and your black should look like new or better.
I would recommend buying a machine like the Porter Cable 7424xp or a Flex XC3401. You have obviously invested a good dollar in buying the vehicle and it would be a good idea to invest in the tools to maintain its beauty and value.
Let me know if you have any other questions.

It would be great if he can hook up with Trent

[Ronkh]

Since I am in the Dallas area, I sent Rock star a PM to let him know I would be happy to meet up with him and help him out.

[txrockstar]

Back online...sorry for the delay. I really appreciate all the advice. I used as a round microfiber application pad.

I plan to connect with Trent and let the pro do his magic (and clean up my "handy work" with his rotary.

In the future, I will be relegated to only applying sealants and carnuba by hand (of course never in a circular motion). And I will be upgrading my my microfiber to a quality microfiber as opposed to the ones I purchased from my local auto store...(although they were supposed to be higher end)... My wife now thinks I am crazy (even more so than before) because all I want to do is wash the car and keep it shining. Black is awesome! This is a great site- and Steve provides great customer service.

[Ronkh]

Back online...sorry for the delay. I really appreciate all the advice. I used as a round microfiber application pad.

I plan to connect with Trent and let the pro do his magic (and clean up my "handy work" with his rotary.

In the future, I will be relegated to only applying sealants and carnuba by hand (of course never in a circular motion). And I will be upgrading my my microfiber to a quality microfiber as opposed to the ones I purchased from my local auto store...(although they were supposed to be higher end)... My wife now thinks I am crazy (even more so than before) because all I want to do is wash the car and keep it shining. Black is awesome! This is a great site- and Steve provides great customer service.

Welcome to an elite club (ref to bold)

Don`t just wash and wax it. Trent will teach you how to do most of it yourself. It`s great therapy when ya want to get away from the world.

And yes black is awesome.

[JaredPointer]

In the future, I will be relegated to only applying sealants and carnuba by hand (of course never in a circular motion).

Any particular reasoning behind this statement?

[txrockstar]

I`ll buy the PC and try it out on my wife`s gray SUV (which is now 6 years old). Incidentally, her ride still shines like new (dual bucket washing, absorber dried pressing never dragged...always garaged...and sealant applied 2x year...gasp...Nufinish...gasp hey, it was better than nothing...now I know what to put on it...P.

Let`s hope the PC is idiot proof; obviously, I am prone to being an idiot.

And I combed this site before attempting to remove the scratch (not even finger nail deep, not that deep at all-- and can`t be seen in daylight--only under overhead garage fluorescents). Evidently, I didn`t absorb all the information...but that`s how I determined to use the SSR line...(which was the right choice).

I have always taken good car of my cars (always look relatively new when I go to sell them- non-smoking, garaged at home/work, custom fit sun shades whenever in the hot Texas sun).

But now I know that owning a black car is an entirely different animal...but I like the way it looks and I am willing to put the time in do it right...that`s is after I have a pro first fix it. Thanks again.

I need to become a Detailer`s apprentice! Thank you for all your helpful advice- I really appreciate it.

[txrockstar]

I read on this site that it`s bad to apply anything by hand in a circular motion. So when I apply the sealant/wax I do it in an up/down motion (one panel at a time)... I`m just trying to do the right thing. Until I found this site, I applied sealants/wax in a circular motion (never had any problems, but then the cars were never black). Just paranoid now...

[JaredPointer]

I apply waxes and sealants in a circular, oval, semi-ovoid motion lots of times with no ill effects. When I apply via machine, it`s always in some sort of orbited motion.

Key point being, it`s okay to use circular motions. When applying an LSP, you shouldn`t be bearing down on the surface and you should routinely check you application media for foreign particles.

Not that there is anything wrong with applying straight line. Just don`t want you to think that you have to do it that way or that you can`t use a circular motion. I`ve tried it all ways, with no discernible differences.

[Poorboy]

I read on this site that it`s bad to apply anything by hand in a circular motion. So when I apply the sealant/wax I do it in an up/down motion (one panel at a time)... I`m just trying to do the right thing. Until I found this site, I applied sealants/wax in a circular motion (never had any problems, but then the cars were never black). Just paranoid now...

Sealants and waxes can be applied in any direction if the vehicle is clean and prepped well. Polishing with an abrasive, or even claying (which is an abrasive) should be done in a back and forth motion.

[tuscarora dave]

[QUOTE=txrockstar;310020] (of course never in a circular motion). QUOTE]

I have read the article by Mike Phillips (or maybe it was a video) about waxing in a straight back and forth motion as opposed to a circular motion. I can fully identify with his point there, being that the light reflection plays a roll in how a scratch is viewed. Mike wrote (or said) that a circular scratch can be seen in a lighted situation from almost any angle. though on the other hand, a scratch that is in a straight line from front to back can normally only be seen from one certain angle. (paraphrasing of course)

That makes total sense to me, on the other hand Mike is normally dealing with show car finishes. Is a nearly perfected black finish that much different though?

[Redwings97]

rockstar - I have a PC and flex if you want to try out before you buy.

Let me know