SSR2.5 ...proper amount to use

[Poorboy]

So I finally tried the 2.5. Not bad cutting power, and I only got moderate dusting.
For the first time, though, I got swirl marks--halos or holograms from the buffing pad. I followed with a lighter pad and then a lighter pad and lighter polish and then AIO. They were mostly gone but evident here and there.
I`ve never gotten this with other cut polishes and compounds. I used a DW849+yellow edge pad and worked the product till gone.
The only thing I did different was not use mists of water like Steve said (dry pad).
What did I miss?

Did you prime the pad with product? What speed did you use it at? ...and check your pad for wear as well as product build-up...

[Brenton]

Did you prime the pad with product? What speed did you use it at? ...and check your pad for wear as well as product build-up...

I followed your pics at the beginning of the thread (the circle). Pad was clean to begin, only used once before, and used a nylon brush to keep it clean. I used the hood to start.

[carazy]

Steve
Would you recommend the same amount of product for the other SSR`s? I would guess if you used the same amount of product for the other SSR`s, the only difference would be the amount of time used to work each product fully.

[Poorboy]

yes the same amount of product for all SSR`s..time will always very due to conditions and variables of the temperature, surface condition, pad used.
I prefer the Lake Country VC (variable contact) pads with my SSR`s. I`ve used a few other brands and results did vary among them.

[Rob Tomlin]

Interesting. I have never had any problem with dusting with SSR 2.5 (or any other SSR for that matter). Of course, I use virtually the exact amount shown in the pics, and the same method of applying. I also use the Lake Country VC pads. Excellent results every time.

[crobinso]

After reading through this thread, I am sorely disappointed. Oh, don`t get me wrong, Steve`s OP was spot-on and VERY informative.

However, I want to see how his granddad`s car turned out!!!!!! :exclaim:

LOL,
Charles

[Poorboy]

After reading through this thread, I am sorely disappointed. Oh, don`t get me wrong, Steve`s OP was spot-on and VERY informative.

However, I want to see how his granddad`s car turned out!!!!!! :exclaim:

LOL,
Charles

Sorry Charles, I`m not a big picture person, I thought the few candid shots were what I was after for the thread.

My grandfather was quite please to see his car looking so good and he did give me a nice tip :hug: :yes:

[Ferrarislave]

Does that picture also represent the instructions for use with a rotary?

[Brenton]

I`ve wondered that too.

I`ve used the better part of a bottle with a rotary, mostly with a wool pad or medium foam cutting pad. I used the same basic principles, except holding the pad up a little on first blush to avoid sling. I start at 1000rpm for spreading the product, then on flat panels I bump to 1800 then to 2200. On side panels I do 1000-1400-1800.

The product still takes time to work in, and needs the heat to break it down. I put mf towels on the bottom of the window to collect dust (hard to clean area).

I get no haze left over. With a foam pad, not much dusting at all, much less than my commercial cut polish. With a wool pad I still get dusting, enough that it needs a full wipe down between steps.

It is not like cut polishes and compounds in that it doesn`t use water to break it down, but heat along. That is helpful for me when doing a quick job like scratch repair. It is not as quick at bringing back wet(color)-sanding marks, but because the dust content is lower, on spot jobs I prefer it.

But the car must be dry. Water clogs the pad and doesn`t help the product. It can causing bouncing with a foam pad at lower rpm, or with a wool pad it leaves little speckled residue (any polish can do this if it gets wet then heated too quickly, but 2.5 especially does it). Not too hard to remove the speckling, but it means putting the 2.5 onto the speckled area and hitting the panel again.

So far I haven`t had significant marring with 2.5 and any pad, despite some serious work. And one step was always enough to follow it, either SSR1, a PB polish, a commercial polish, or the Farecla G10 I use sometimes.

Hope that helps, though Steve may have more.

[M3_POWER]

For some reason the pictures don`t show up. Can you describe how much I should use since I don`t have pics to base on?

[Poorboy]

looks like we have lost the pictures in the transition from .com to .org

ok i put them back but they are all in the first post

[mblgjr]

I`m new and just recently started using a PC with SSR 2.5 on a white pad. I have been using distilled water, misted on the pad. I did this originally trying to get the product to spread through the pad and to use less product.

Sometimes when I turn the PC up to 5+ I get some pad shimmy/flap, as a previous poster mentioned. Is this because I have to pad too damp?

Also, is it ok to work 2.5 to the point that it is virtually gone from the surface?

I usually have to wipe it off with a mf.

Also, I don`t get dusting at any point so long as I don`t let it dry before I take it off.

Thanks, sorry for the long post.

[Brenton]

Welcome, and that`s a relatively short post.
SSR products go with a dry pad. I made the same mistake at first since I was used to compounds. Keep the pad as dry as possible.
And perhaps use a little less product and work it in like Steve said 4-5 mins/panel. It`s a long wait, but it is worth it.

[Ferrarislave]

Would you recommend the same amount of product on a rotary? Also, do you recommend keeping the pad dry?

[Poorboy]

Would you recommend the same amount of product on a rotary? Also, do you recommend keeping the pad dry?

yes you keep the pad dry and I would use a bit more product as the rotary creates a bit more heat and friction.