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  1. #1

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    Does anyone know a good way to test the clean power of soaps? They only thing I can tell about different soaps is how they smell and how much they sud
    2005 F-150 Reg Cab Flareside 5.4L

    Chemical Engineers: More refined than the rest.

  2. #2

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    wow.. never thought my 8th grade science project would actually come into use.. Anyways, after remenicing a bit about the good ol` days of being in 8th grade (im a senior now.. :p ) what i did as a science project was to buy some black grease from pep boys, or local auto store. Apply it very thinly to a surface of your choice, and try to clean it with a cleaner you are testing. Keep applying the grease to the same type of surface, but different areas, and use different cleaners to see which works best. Not sure if i made any sense.. But i did this using 4 sheets of 1/2` x 1/2` glass, applied to grease, and used pure ammonia, dawn, windex w/ ammonia, and windex w/o ammonia.. that was my science project.. gives you a good understanding of whether the cleaner performs or not..



    Just an idea.. :nixweiss

  3. #3

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    don`t forget to use water as your control

  4. #4

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    you can test the sud ability with a straw and some water (from the hose), just don`t suck in



    car wash is a tad different, cause we want it to get dirt off but keep wax on...hmmm, I`ll think about it.

  5. #5

    Join Date
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    <blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

    <em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by YoSteve [/i]
    <strong class=`bbc`>you can test the sud ability with a straw and some water (from the hose), just don`t suck in
    [/b]</blockquote>
    Plz elaborate? (sp?)
    2005 F-150 Reg Cab Flareside 5.4L

    Chemical Engineers: More refined than the rest.

  6. #6

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    Rotary polishing techniques w/ M105 & M205

    I seem to be able to find many articles and threads on using a DA but very few when it comes to a rotary. I have found a thread in a UK forum and the gentleman wrote a guide called "Machine Polishing by Rotary Polisher". However, he uses the M82, 83 etc. and really doesn`t get into detail on how to do it. how many passes left to right, up and down, etc. And, I`ve read about the Zenith method (which may not be applicable to M105 or 205 since they really don`t break down?).

    Does anyone have suggestions for using M105/205 w/ a rotary?

    Dave P

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by davepjr71 View Post
    I seem to be able to find many articles and threads on using a DA but very few when it comes to a rotary. I have found a thread in a UK forum and the gentleman wrote a guide called "Machine Polishing by Rotary Polisher". However, he uses the M82, 83 etc. and really doesn`t get into detail on how to do it. how many passes left to right, up and down, etc. And, I`ve read about the Zenith method (which may not be applicable to M105 or 205 since they really don`t break down?).

    Does anyone have suggestions for using M105/205 w/ a rotary?

    Dave P
    Its very much the same as a DA , overlapping 50 percent each pass ....only you want to be going much faster(arm speed) and letting up as you near edges(letting up on machine speed).

    Keep your pad flat as possible and get a good stance so the machine doesnt get you off balance

    I was never taught the cross hatch on a rotary but Ive seen people do that also.
    105 will dry up quickly on you and you can give it a little spray of water to revive it and work it longer. 205 you wont have that problem.

    I would just do one pass and see where your at . Some soft paints thats all you need.

    I would love to see more peoples advice on rotary use because honestly I got a 2 minute lesson on how to use a rotaty and always wondered if Im missing something important .
    I will miss you TID! R.I.P !

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by detailchick View Post
    Its very much the same as a DA , overlapping 50 percent each pass ....only you want to be going much faster and letting up as you near edges.

    Keep your pad flat as possible and get a good stance so the machine doesnt get you off balance

    I was never taught the cross hatch on a rotary but Ive seen people do that also.
    105 will dry up quickly on you and you can give it a little spray of water to revive it and work it longer. 205 you wont have that problem.

    I would just do one pass and see where your at . Some soft paints thats all you need.

    I would love to see more peoples advice on rotary use because honestly I got a 2 minute lesson on how to use a rotaty and always wondered if Im missing something important .
    You sound more like a seasoned pro IMO :spy: I see no other advice I can offer other then spread it slow, then bump it up to around 1600-2000 RPM`s @ 40 ft.lb`s Muscleman

    Make 4 passes (up/down,back/forth,updown.back/forth) then wipe clean to see what kinda damage...urrr progress you have incurred @-)

  9. #9

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    Another Rotary Power user here.

    All the advice sounds good - Meguiars 105 for some reason, is not happy to get started once you spread it and start working it. But if you keep on it, and are careful, and keep it a little damp so it doesnt dry too much and start to dust, it will work great.
    I hardly use M105 anymore with foam pads, instead I like it to do those little places that are hard to get to - the door handle cups behind the door handles, around letters, numbers, etc., on the backs and sides of vehicles, with Qtips, , etc.
    It is however, an absolute killer of badly swirled, scratched enough paint, Airplane paint, etc., to use with L/C Purple foamed wool pads, which I also like to keep damp.
    Not trying to change your mindset, but there are other products out that can pretty much give you equally great cut and clarity on a Rotary..

    And has already been said, M205 is a dream to use, is so the opposite of its big brother, you wonder how they could ever be related !!

    I dont particularly see the need to run the speed up past 1000 to get perfectly clear paint, so I hardly ever go there. It also helps reduce slinging of product, and if you are using the infamous L/C Hydro-Shred pads, well, anything past 600 and they start crying anyway.. Their only saving grace is that they finish down so great!!!

    I have a Makita 9227c and the new Flex PE 14-2 150 - both purchased from Classic Motoring Accessories..

    Good luck, let us know how you are doing!
    Dan F

  10. #10

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    Dave , if I were you I would start on a beater car or get a hood from an autobody shop to practice on so you get a worry free feel of the machine .
    I will miss you TID! R.I.P !

  11. #11

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    did test area

    Dan,

    I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota with light scratches and swirls on the hood. Worse damage around the bed railing and tail gate.

    Last night I started off on a small section of the hood with M205 and a black Soft Buff 2.0 pad with light pressure. went left to right. then right to left. Then top to bottom and reversed it. The paint was shinnier but the scratches still there.

    Went to Soft Buff 2.0 yellow pad and did the same. No change.

    Went to M105 with yellow pad and while it made a small difference it didn`t correct the scratches after 5 tries. I even took the rotary up to about 1800 with heavy pressure (pad flat. I have a tendency to be fearless when it comes to experimenting). The scratches don`t catch a nail and can only be seen from certain directions and the right light so they aren`t that deep. I did learn how quickly that stuff dries, wow. I`ll definitely start using a spray bottle. If it dried out too fast could that be why it didn`t remove the scratches?

    Could this paint be classified as extremely hard? I would have thought putting that type of pressure should have done something. Under a camera flash I can see swirls but under normal eye the paint looks like glass except for the darn scratches.

    Any recommendations?

    Also, it sounds like you use your rotary to polish too. For polishing what settings and pads do you use?

    Dave

  12. #12
    Just a regular guy Todd@RUPES's Avatar
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    M105 is going to be fairly pad dependent, as a function of its abrasives.

    For rotary advice I would recommend to start by priming your pad and then brushing off the excess. Keep your pad speed lower (1200-1400) to reduce heat, and instead use firm pressure.

    When you use M105 on a wool pad (because in the increase of surface area of a wool pad) you will dramatically increase the rate of cut. Again firm pressure and a slower speed will usually net better results. Remember to clean your pad often.

  13. #13
    Jedi Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by davepjr71 View Post

    Does anyone have suggestions for using M105/205 w/ a rotary?

    Dave P
    Not allowed to link to aunother forum especially I think, so Google: 2 passes with M105/wool, no luck

    Lots of posts. Pay particular attention to posts 16, 31, 42, 43.
    Kevin Brown
    NXTti Instructor, Meguiar`s/Ford SEMA Team, Meguiar`s Distributor/Retailer

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Brown View Post
    Not allowed to link to aunother forum especially I think, so Google: 2 passes with M105/wool, no luck

    Lots of posts. Pay particular attention to posts 16, 31, 42, 43.
    Thanks Kevin. I read through the posts there and I`ll try the advice you gave. I`ve ordered some Lake Country purple wool pads and hope to try it out this weekend.

  15. #15
    AMG Classic Car Detailing Old Pirate's Avatar
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    As a good friend say`s:

    Quote Originally Posted by TH0001 View Post
    clean your wool pad after each application, either by spurring or by using compressed air. By keeping the pad clean you get a much nicer finish....

    One of the most important things to do with your wool pads that some forget to do when buffing.
    AutopiaForums is the place to be.
    Remember to Shop Autopia-CarCare.com for your Detailing Needs!

 

 
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