Learning curve with a Rotory

[DETAILKING]

It can even be mixed into a wash bucked and used as wash or a spray bottle to be used as a QD according to the directions. Is anyone concerned that using a damp towel to remove KLASSE or spraying it with water might degrade the layer that is supposed to stay on the car? I guess to be sure, we should let SG dry at least an hour to make sure it is dry and water will not dissolve it. What do you think?

[BradE]

DK,



I have not had any problems with it. It still has all the gloss and smoothness. But, I do let it dry for at least 1 hour. But, I have had no problems at all.

[99323ic]

Mass. Wine Guy, you would not want to use a QD spray that has neither silicones nor carnauba. Meguiar`s #34 fits the bill.

For reference, I wrote in answer to Bixa929`s question some details of my process. You can view the thread here.

[mx5]

Do not use Klasse AIO as a wash!!! Read my post on it.

http://autopia-carport.com/forum/sho...ht=klasse+wash

[YoSteve]

SG haze is very thin yet very sturdy, but with a little differnce as even the slightest amount of moisture on a cloth, it wisks away with ease. It`s quite puzzling actually.



I have even found that moisture in your breath is enough to take SG off with ease. Breathe on it a little and wipe with a miracle towel and it comes right off. But that of course is impractical so I usually resort to the distilled water in a spritzer.



The point is if moisture from air is enought to expedite the removal of SG then you should use as least invasive way as possible to minimze possible coating removal.



I don`t see why it would be necessary to use QD, as in it`s costly compared to water. It contains other things in it, many of which we don`t really know exactly what it is. Fragrance molecules can get trapped in the SG, I don`t know.



And we know that the alcohol in QD tends to remove some (very small amount) the coating that it touches. Now it may not be a lot but if i`m going to put as much effort into this as possible, I`m not going to diminish the adhesion in any way as possible.



Just my 2 cents on that one.

[DETAILKING]

Why use a QD when water works. Conversely, if water does dissolve SG, (we know it is water soluble), but still think it`s better to be safe and let it dry at least 30-40 minutes before removal to give the polymer a chance to set before using moisture for residue removal.

[imported_Intermezzo]

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

<em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by YoSteve.Com [/i]
<strong class=`bbc`>Breathe on it a little and wipe with a miracle towel and it comes right off. [/b]</blockquote>
Stevie:

You wash your car with a Pond`s foamer and now you remove KSG with your breath. Sometimes I wonder just how close you and your car have become Steve!! j/k

[Tucson buffer]

Can I assume that when polishing with a circular polisher that the paint correction stage, using LC orange, white pads and M105 or M205, that I will always create Holograms or is my inexperience showing through?

[RED JEWELL SS]

Can I assume that when polishing with a circular polisher that the paint correction stage, using LC orange, white pads and M105 or M205, that I will always create Holograms or is my inexperience showing through?

I think from what I have read this is quite common. I did read the other day that polishers like the PCXP were effective in removing them...and there is a technique to do so but I am not sure enough to put it into print here.

[SwirlBFree]

A polishing pad with M105 combined with a rotary is an aggressive combination that will leave buffer trails on most paint finishes. If you have access to a DA polisher such as a PC or G110, try removing your holograms with a polishing pad and M205. Keep the speed between 4-5 on the DA dial.

If you don`t have access to a DA polisher, try M205 and a finishing pad with your rotary, and lower the speed to about 1000-1200 RPM, less if necessary.

[Tucson buffer]

I do have PC:clap: I`ll try that first, then the Back pad with the rotory. Thanks for the input.

[RED JEWELL SS]

A polishing pad with M105 combined with a rotary is an aggressive combination that will leave buffer trails on most paint finishes. If you have access to a DA polisher such as a PC or G110, try removing your holograms with a polishing pad and M205. Keep the speed between 4-5 on the DA dial.

If you don`t have access to a DA polisher, try M205 and a finishing pad with your rotary, and lower the speed to about 1000-1200 RPM, less if necessary.

Thanks Swirl B , I knew I was on the right track....but with me being the rookie on this forum, I dont want to give any bad advice. :biggrin:

[imported_Stokdgs]

I have used Rotary Buffers for probably more years than most on this forum and I dont ever create swirls, holograms, or any of this stuff.

My advice is to:

Know what type of paint you are going to be working on if possible - is it really hard or a softer clear on top

Keep the buffer moving the entire time it is on the paint surface, except when you start it.

Use clean lubricated pads

Use enough clean lubricated pads to complete the project which will be more than 2-3 pads

Use enough light so that you can actually see the material "flashing" and then starting to dry

Use slower speeds except at the polishing/jeweling stage where you can run it up to say "3" on a Makita9227c.

Learn what the polish/pad combination feels like as it goes through the cutting stage, to the polishing stage, to the finishing stage, where the material will almost all be off the paint and on the pad, and this is where you stop, wipe off the area treated, look at the work you just did, and either clean the pad, re-wet it, or get another one.

In my experience, any of the holograms, swirls, etc., in the paint that one creates is because of dirty, dry, drying pads, and if the surface is not cleaned and clayed, this also adds more junk that gets swirled around.

Think of the paint as one big surface that you are Polishing to perfection - what would you use to do it, and how aggressive and later gentle, would you be with the surface as you brought it up from extremely scratched to a beautiful finish - this is what you are doing.

The slower speeds on a Rotary are easier to control the machine and get the pad in places where a really high speed would cut too fast and remove too much material off.

Here are a couple of examples, I hope to be able to post up soon -

2002 Lexus, Jet Black, 88k miles, never been detailed by a professional -

I tried Orange flat classic with Meguiars 105, Meguiars M34 detailing spray for lube, and it turned out very messy, did cut some of the defects out, but ended up being too labor intensive and unworkable.
Took a L/C Purple Foam/Wool Pad with same M105, and it cut the defects all the way down in 1-2 passes and I was able to finish it off to a beautiful gloss.
I went back and finished this all up with a L/C flat classic White pad and Menzerna P085rd and the gloss was even higher and clearer, so I stopped there.

2002 BMW M5, Jet Black, 60k miles, extremely scratched, swirled, paint, thin in many areas.

I initially wanted to use L/C Orange flat classic pad, with M105, but this soft paint was not really happy with the process and wanted to make a big swirly mess.
So I tried another clean pad, L/C Orange Flat Classic with M205, a much easier working compound, and it worked beautifully. I had to really lean on the Rotary initially to get the 205 to cut harder, but I was able to get out almost all but the deepest scratches and gloss it up as M205 normally does so well, when used with a lighter cutting pad. Did this for 2 or 3 passes, depending on the severity of the defects, and could bring a beautiful, clear, glossy finish to almost every panel, keeping in mind the paint was appearing thin in many places.

Each of these 2 vehicles got BlackFire Wet Diamond x 2 using the AutoGlym Foam Pad Applicator which worked very well and allowed me to really speed through the application, and then finished it all off with BlackFire Wet Diamond Wax x 1 with a regular foam applicator.

I also used a Meguiars G110V2 on both these vehicles, and it did work,but took too long, so I only used this machine on the smaller areas on the front and rear ends, and mirrors, and the trim pieces that run across the car from the A Pillars to the C Pillars.

I will always use a Rotary first choice because its much faster, but it also has its limitations on smaller areas, around any rubber trim, etc., where a smaller pad on a Random Orbital is easier to use and control, but just takes longer to get the same result.

That is how it works for me, your experience, and mileage may differ..

Dan F

[Tucson buffer]

Don F. That was some real and appreciated advice. I will take your experience and comments and try again. This is why I love this fourm, you get some real useable advice:clap::clap:

[Tucson buffer]

Oops!!..Sorry Dan, figers got ahead of brain!!