when to prime?

**dougsrt** · 02-18-2014, 11:48 PM

Hi all I`m a bit confused. I do I need to prime a clean foam pad before correction/ polish or use an x of product or circle of product on the pad ?

**radarryan** · 02-19-2014, 04:35 AM

I always prime the pad before using it. What I`ll do is put the polish onto the pad and work it into the entire face, covering all the pores. After, I`ll put down my working product; usually 3 pea sized drops and start working.

Others may comment, but this is how I learned and I think it is considered the "proper" way, though as we know, detailing can be done a number of "proper" ways.

**Ronkh** · 02-19-2014, 08:24 AM

Originally Posted by radarryan

Others may comment, but this is how I learned and I think it is considered the "proper" way, though as we know, detailing can be done a number of "proper" ways.

**mrclean81** · 02-19-2014, 09:06 AM

Originally Posted by radarryan

I always prime the pad before using it. What I`ll do is put the polish onto the pad and work it into the entire face, covering all the pores. After, I`ll put down my working product; usually 3 pea sized drops and start working.

Others may comment, but this is how I learned and I think it is considered the "proper" way, though as we know, detailing can be done a number of "proper" ways.

This is known as the Kevin Brown Method. I believe its the "right" way as well.

**dougsrt** · 02-19-2014, 10:07 AM

Thanks for the input!! Working it in the pad first seems to make more sense

**The Driver** · 02-19-2014, 10:42 AM

Don`t always prime, it depends on the pads, I notice ccs and especially mf pads clog easily so unless you have pad washer on stand by or are using a very fine polish id say prime maybe every 3 panels. Mf pads clog very fast with heavy compounds so make sure to use a fair amount of water or lube.

I always use the m&m style. 5-6 dots of m&m sized. You can always put more on but can`t take a away. I notice the most defect removal is usually with the least amount of product. Overloading the pad will really hinder the cut and make a huge mess, it will also be a nightmare with very soft paints.

**Bunky** · 02-19-2014, 11:21 AM

I am no expert on polishing but seems the Kevin Brown Method is perfect for SMAT. When I tried this method (Mike P`s shows it graphically) with Menzerna I have way too much polish..seem to take forever to break down...to get it as pretty looking as Mike has it in his pics.

With Menzerna, I just put 2x the amount or so (3 to 4 blobs after that depending on work area), spread around, and start. The pad is not nearly as saturated initially.

**The Driver** · 02-19-2014, 11:25 AM

Originally Posted by Bunky

I am no expert on polishing but seems the Kevin Brown Method is perfect for SMAT. When I tried this method (Mike P`s shows it graphically) with Menzerna I have way too much polish..seem to take forever to break down...to get it as pretty looking as Mike has it in his pics.

With Menzerna, I just put 2x the amount or so (3 to 4 blobs after that depending on work area), spread around, and start. The pad is not nearly as saturated initially.

Spot on, I really stick with menzerna and that is definitely the case. Make sure you know difference between dats an smats.

**dougsrt** · 02-19-2014, 05:03 PM

Great info !! I think doing a test spot with each pad and product seeing which method works best is the way to go thanks everyone!

**radarryan** · 02-20-2014, 03:04 AM

Originally Posted by Bunky

I am no expert on polishing but seems the Kevin Brown Method is perfect for SMAT. When I tried this method (Mike P`s shows it graphically) with Menzerna I have way too much polish..seem to take forever to break down...to get it as pretty looking as Mike has it in his pics.

With Menzerna, I just put 2x the amount or so (3 to 4 blobs after that depending on work area), spread around, and start. The pad is not nearly as saturated initially.

Originally Posted by The Driver

Spot on, I really stick with menzerna and that is definitely the case. Make sure you know difference between dats an smats.

Wow, great to know! Thanks guys! I`ve currently only used SF4500, but have bought the entire Menzerna range for future polishing needs (after using PO85rd I was sold on the lot). I`ll keep this in mind since my prior polishing experience was really with SMAT products (Meguiar`s, Optimum, etc.)

**Bunky** · 02-20-2014, 08:56 AM

Originally Posted by radarryan

Wow, great to know! Thanks guys! I`ve currently only used SF4500, but have bought the entire Menzerna range for future polishing needs (after using PO85rd I was sold on the lot). I`ll keep this in mind since my prior polishing experience was really with SMAT products (Meguiar`s, Optimum, etc.)

I think the argument is that the full prime method allows the most effective correction (fast, most cut) but KB also supposed based it upon a DA using M105 with lots of down pressure. All I know if you over prime initially you might as well get a new pad. Also, I believe polish amount is related to work area ...whether it is 12x12 or 20x20. You can always add a tad more as you spread initially a low speed to optimize the amount.

**radarryan** · 02-21-2014, 01:25 AM

Here is a relevant article by Mike Phillips.

How much product do I use with my DA Polisher? - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum

Happy detailing!

**Swanicyouth** · 02-21-2014, 08:38 AM

I Prime LIGHTLY with any polish initially. It just seems to make sense to me to have the whole pad working at 100% efficiency from the get go. I also prime because I tend to use NOT ENOUGH polish - unlike most that use too much.

However, I`ve found with the Rupes SYSTEM priming isn`t required and isn`t even beneficial - it`s overkill. The polishes seem highly concentrated to me. So, I just use WG pad spray instead - exactly 1.5 sprays on a fresh pad. No more - no less. Then I apply 3 or 4 dime size drops to start, pea size after that.

Basically for Rupes, I followed the method Rupes uses in their videos. Since they designed the system, I think they know more than me.