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  1. #1
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    I saw this stuff in the auto parts store today, soap in the green bottle. It claims that you spray it on the car, and it will sud with water, clean all the dirt, and not remove wax. Too good to be true? This would be a HUGE help for us new englanders this winter season... if it actually works. Anyone ever try it?

  2. #2

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    From what I hear, its pretty good stuff.

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    There`s another product out there called "Protect All Quick and Easy Wash" that is supposed to allow one to wash his/her car using only a gallon of water with no rinsing required. Scottwax is the person who posted information about it.



    I wonder if it`s possible to use diluted regular car soap (like Pinnacle BS) in the same manner as Mother`s Trigger wash.

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    Intermezzo:

    Does this sound anything like what you`re talking about?

    By the way, you can also put car shampoo and some water into a bottle and shake it vigorously and then put that on the car, it should make for some pretty good suds if you find the right mix.

  5. #5

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    Oh yeah, I remember that thread. YoSteve brought up an interesting thread back then.



    Puter, have you tried that spray method? How do you like it?

  6. #6
    Serious no BS kinda guy forrest@mothers's Avatar
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    isn`t diluted car wash soap. It`s concentrated. You wet the vehicle, apply one or 2 squirts to a body panel, and then use your mitt to wash the vehicle in the regular manner.



    The water on the vehicle dilutes it. A real advantage is you don`t use too much soap (a common problem for most folks), and you don`t need a bucket full of water.



    I`ve used the product for 3 years now - one testing and 2 years of use. I find it`s about 15 minutes faster per car than the bucket method of washing, since you`re not constantly going back and forth to the bucket for your mitt. It also saves my back from so much bending over. I hang the bottle on my pocket with the trigger to keep from setting it down.



    It`s also great for pretreating caked on bird droppings, so you don`t scratch the paint.



    If you could get the consistency of any car wash product right, you could do the same thing is a spray bottle.



    Obviously, it`s not for the double throw down detail. For for a quick, everyday wash I think it`s great. One problem you will find is the need to reverse rinse/flush the mitt out to remove contaminants.



    In testing, we were able to wash over 50 vehicles with one 16 ounce bottle. (Disclaimer - this was typical SoCal slightly dusty vehicles. I`d expect 20-25 vehicles in more "real world" conditions, but that`s still better than using 1 oz of car soap per gallon of water in the bucket method, which would be 8 or so buckets of car wash, assuming a 2 gallon fill in a 3 gallon bucket. Of course, your mileage may vary.)
    forrest

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    <blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

    <em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by Intermezzo330I [/i]
    <strong class=`bbc`>Puter, have you tried that spray method? How do you like it? [/b]</blockquote>
    I use an equivalent of what I said. Immediately after filling the wash bucket with fresh suds and inspecting my wash mitt closely, I drip fresh (more lubricating) suds on the top panel I`m doing and let it run down the other panels. I do this to the panels nearby, only right after filling the bucket usually.

    I dump and refill my wash bucket with soap and water at least 3 times per wash, at most 7 times (heh ) and my rinse bucket at least 5 times at most 15 or so times, so I have plenty of chances to put fresh clean suds on my car.

    Does anyone else dump the soapy water a lot just to get fresh suds? I use Meguiar`s cheap Gold Class shampoo and like it but the suds lose their silky smooth lubricative properties after a little while so I refill the bucket for this reason and to get rid of any grit.


    How`s that for a ramble? I`d be glad to go into more detail here should that be necessary.

    HTH,

    Justin

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    Is the purpose of this product more to give lubricity or to clean or both? It would seem to be both, kind of like a really thick cleaning QD. I wouldn`t use it to wash personally but the bird poop use sounds like it might be worth it.



    What do y`all use to remove sap? Little isolated sap spots, 1 or 2 per week. My car is Klassed.

  9. #9
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    Do you guys think this would be ok on a black car? I dont want swirl marks because i have no plain water bucket to dip it in. Also my car beads water really well, so what is the trigger wash gonna mix with on the paint if all the water beaded off?

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    The product isnt a QD but a car wash in a spray bottle. You wet the surface, wet the mit, spray the mit and wash like you would any other car wash solution. Then you spray the mitt to dislodge any dirt and rinse the panel.

  11. #11
    Serious no BS kinda guy forrest@mothers's Avatar
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    it`s another way to get the soap on the car. All Trigger Wash is, is a different delivery vehicle for the soap. The end result (spraying it on a wet surface or mitt) is the same as diluting the soap in a bucket of water - there`s just no water.



    I find no real difference in doing it either way, except I have no bucket o` water to knock over and waste.
    forrest

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    Newbie Adviice needed

    Hey everybody, Im getting ready to order the blackfire kit for 2001 black mustang, I dont have a picture yet but basically it has medium swirls, and very light oxidation. I dont see anywhere where the clear coat has broken. I have alway washed waxed and claybar`d from the start, just never polished. It was polish though after a trip to the paint shop about three years ago.

    I was interested in the kit from Blackfire that has the polish/sealant/wash. Do you think this would be a good start and where should i start with the pads? color or manufacturer?
    I have the PC and still have the white pad it comes with unused.

  13. #13
    bmw5541's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grahamlight View Post
    Hey everybody, Im getting ready to order the blackfire kit for 2001 black mustang, I dont have a picture yet but basically it has medium swirls, and very light oxidation. I dont see anywhere where the clear coat has broken. I have alway washed waxed and claybar`d from the start, just never polished. It was polish though after a trip to the paint shop about three years ago.

    I was interested in the kit from Blackfire that has the polish/sealant/wash. Do you think this would be a good start and where should i start with the pads? color or manufacturer?
    I have the PC and still have the white pad it comes with unused.
    grahamlight,
    The Blackfire kit should work fine, however you might want to try Megs M105/M205 for your polishes. There are many good shampoos available here at PAC as well. As for pads, do you have a 5" backing plate for your PC? If not, get one as a PC will do a much better job of paint correction with the 5.5" pads as opposed to the 6" pads. Try the Lake Country Classic Flat Pads. You can get them in a 6 pack. Get 2 Orange, 2 White and 2 Black.
    You can also give Angelo a call. He is always willing to assist in whatever you might need and knows a lot about detailing and all of the products.
    Good luck.
    Barry Schultz
    Detailed Elegance

  14. #14

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    LC flat pads are good.

    For a complete vehicle I would get 3 minimum of each color (orange, white, black) as a basic stock. I do have some of the new HT pads (tangerine) but have not used them yet.

    If you want to apply the LSP by machine, I would get the reds too but I usually do this by hand.
    Al

    Made in USA

  15. #15
    bmw5541's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bunky View Post
    LC flat pads are good.

    For a complete vehicle I would get 3 minimum of each color (orange, white, black) as a basic stock. I do have some of the new HT pads (tangerine) but have not used them yet.

    If you want to apply the LSP by machine, I would get the reds too but I usually do this by hand.
    I have the HT pads and like them a lot. However the life of the pads are MUCH shrrter then the flats.
    Barry Schultz
    Detailed Elegance

 

 
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