Beginner looking to tackle water etchings

[imported_CH.Detailing]

Remember this site is somewhat a division of Megs.

Please explain.

[Old Pirate]

There are many ways to tackle this problem your having, one is wash your car then use a clay bar to see if it helps lossen a few of them and use some white vinager on them also. You might get something off, but if they been there awhile it doesn`t look like they will come off that way. Very fine swirls can be removed by polishing alone but those deeper swirls, water spots and the light scratches typically requires a three-step process : compound, polish and finish procedure or a Four step process by adding wet sanding to the 3 step one procedure. Menzerna and Meguiar`s products are found to be the best around products to use when trying to do correction work on your vehicle and I always recommend to do a IPA wipe down ( 50/50 ). But If its very extensive then you have to go with machine polishing or wetsanding as only choice. Maybe someone here that might be in your area might help out.

[gmblack3]

Remember this site is somewhat a division of Megs.

As for myself I only use Poorboys World Products. Real bad swirls Id start with 2.5 and follow with SSR! from Poorboys. Never have tried the 205 or 105 from Megs. Poorboys should be similiar and will be more user freindly. PBs products were developed for use indoors or out. Lots of users in the high humidity areas such as Florida.

Some here have used the products, but would rather use a nationally known/marketed product. A few have had missed results and others have had great results. Its easier to use when starting out versus someone who has been running a rotary for 20 plus years with other brands of products.

Need more info search for the Poorboys World products and maybe even give the owner a call to see what he recommends.

PB should be similar but you have never used 105/205? I have not used PB polishes in 3 years, I can personally guarantee you that SSR/2.5 is nothing like
M105/205.

[RedlineIRL]

I wish you would try the 105 along with the KBM. You`ll never go back to the old way. Super results and fast. Get a practice hood or a beater and try it out. Seems like you are really against polishes that have fillers. Well so am I, just do a mineral sprits or alcohol wipe down, inspect and lsp.
If you are still uncomfortable using 105, you can use either Optimum Spray Compound and Spray Polish or Wolfgangs Twins which is made by Menzerna.

I may just do that, I am just kind of anxious and want to correct these as soon as I can. It`s not like they can get any worse after everything has been cleaned and polished previously, right?

What are the Wolgang Twins? I`m not real familiar with their products and google didn`t really give much info

If you want to jack your paint up even worse then it already is then by all means use Poorboys World SSR line of product :-t

Megs 105 or Menzerna Power Gloss will give you the best results :wizard:

What is wrong with the Poorboys SSR polishes? I was considering SSR 2.5 and SSR 1. I don`t really see how either is going to mess anything since both have less cut than 105. Could you explain? I am curious

Remember this site is somewhat a division of Megs.

As for myself I only use Poorboys World Products. Real bad swirls Id start with 2.5 and follow with SSR! from Poorboys. Never have tried the 205 or 105 from Megs. Poorboys should be similiar and will be more user freindly. PBs products were developed for use indoors or out. Lots of users in the high humidity areas such as Florida.

Some here have used the products, but would rather use a nationally known/marketed product. A few have had missed results and others have had great results. Its easier to use when starting out versus someone who has been running a rotary for 20 plus years with other brands of products.

Need more info search for the Poorboys World products and maybe even give the owner a call to see what he recommends.

Have you found any of the SSRs to contain real heavy fillers? I don`t have bad swirls, just etchings that should have never happened on a car that was waxed with 845 a couple weeks prior. If I do go the SSR route, does 2.5 leave much hazing? Does it finish out fine going from 2.5 to 1, or is it better to go from 2.5, 2, and then 1?

There are many ways to tackle this problem your having, one is wash your car then use a clay bar to see if it helps lossen a few of them and use some white vinager on them also. You might get something off, but if they been there awhile it doesn`t look like they will come off that way. Very fine swirls can be removed by polishing alone but those deeper swirls, water spots and the light scratches typically requires a three-step process : compound, polish and finish procedure or a Four step process by adding wet sanding to the 3 step one procedure. Menzerna and Meguiar`s products are found to be the best around products to use when trying to do correction work on your vehicle and I always recommend to do a IPA wipe down ( 50/50 ). But If its very extensive then you have to go with machine polishing or wetsanding as only choice. Maybe someone here that might be in your area might help out.

I have washed, a couple times, tried the vinegar, polishing with a cleaner polish, and a lighter machine polish with the 7424. They are deposits on top of the surface, but what looks like more of a type II as seen here


I`ll see what I can do first, and if I could use some help hopefully someone is neearby

[Old Pirate]

You can try the ScratchX, but to me wetsanding then following up with a compound then proper polishing steps will help/remove it for you. Let us know how it turns out..........RedlineIRL

[imported_Flash Gordon]

IWhat is wrong with the Poorboys SSR polishes? I was considering SSR 2.5 and SSR 1. I don`t really see how either is going to mess anything since both have less cut than 105. Could you explain? I am curious

You tell me and we will both know. I was sent samples of ssr1, ssr2, ssr2.5 back when they changed there formula. To make a long story short, I used these products on a black Mercedes. Each step I took the paint got progressivly worse. I finally had to abandoned the ssr and go back and redue the entire car using Megs/Menzerna :wizard:

As the old saying goes, maybe I got a bad batch

Some more food for thought. When is the last time you have seen a profesioinal detailer use the SSR line? I can answer that in case you can`t NEVER

BTW. No direct links to competeing forums. I`m sure you understand Da Rules!

[RedlineIRL]

You can try the ScratchX, but to me wetsanding then following up with a compound then proper polishing steps will help/remove it for you. Let us know how it turns out..........RedlineIRL

ScratchX did work, but slowly. The ScrtchX was creating micromarring, so either way machine polshing is a must. It`d take forever to do the whole hood by hand.

You tell me and we will both know. I was sent samples of ssr1, ssr2, ssr2.5 back when they changed there formula. To make a long story short, I used these products on a black Mercedes. Each step I took the paint got progressivly worse. I finally had to abandoned the ssr and go back and redue the entire car using Megs/Menzerna :wizard:

As the old saying goes, maybe I got a bad batch

Some more food for thought. When is the last time you have seen a profesioinal detailer use the SSR line? I can answer that in case you can`t NEVER

BTW. No direct links to competeing forums. I`m sure you understand Da Rules!

If they are no good, then no thanks. I`ve read reviews in the past from others and I just never recalled anyone ever having trouble with them. How far back did they change the formua? Did it just create more swirls and hazing progressing on?

You don`t see too many professionals using the PC as their main machine for correction either. But it`s all I have, and I am no professional. How are the Menzerna polishes when it comes to working times, do they take a little while to break down and work fine with a 7424? Or are they more intended for rotary use

Oops, taken down

[imported_CH.Detailing]

You don`t see too many professionals using the PC as their main machine for correction either.

O rly? Times are changing my friend.

[imported_Bunky]

Are you thinking pro`s are decreasing rotary use for PC`s or the fact there are a lot more pro`s (people doing correction for a living) that start with PC`s?

[Junebug]

I think the M105/205 and KBM changed the way a lot of detailing professionals corrected paint. If you look at Todd`s post on using M105, it`s clear that the old 3-4 steps with a rotary are no longer the norm. I worked for a while with a used car lot / bodyshop and the owner - while a talented paint and bodyman, was still doing the 3M 3 step to get cars ready for sale. It wasn`t that long ago.

So what`s the best if both methods will eventually get the desired results? To me, it`s the one with less steps, and less products to buy.

[RedlineIRL]

So I have been doing some reading on the KBM. It seems that the key thing is to prime the pad with product, not to the point where it`s clogging the pad, and then add the product itself. When using this method, are flat faced pads an absolute must? I have LC CCS pads, will they work?

It seems that a lot of people are able to take the M105 and finish it of without using a finishing polish. Say that 105 did leave hazing and micromarring behind, do I need to use the same method with 205 on a white pad to get it finished right?