Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesStokdgs liked this post
I found the comparison chart on autopia of different polishes and how aggressive they are. I will probably use that as a guide.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesStokdgs liked this post
The Ultimate Compound compared to M105, is much easier to use. It features a similar abrasive set to M105, but with a different carrier liquid.
Ultimate Polish to me, is interchangable with M205. I bieve M205 had a touch more cut, but they both finish down about the same.
My preference is the Ultimate line.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesBill1975 liked this post
Gotcha. My brothers girlfriend had a 2010 Jetta and the paint responded well to Meguiar`s ultimate compound and a cutting pad. It removed the majority of the defects when I did a small section on the hood before she traded it in for a 2009 Corvette.
I would not recommend M105. With it`s learning curve it could cause frustration. M100, M1010 and even ultimate compound are better alternatives for a compound. Even D300 works well on foam even though it was designed for the microfiber cutting pads. I prefer to still use it with the microfiber cutting pads as there is virtually no dust. On harder paints this combo can finish LSP (last step product = protection) ready.
This would make an excellent starter kit. I would toss in a bottle of ultimate quik wax or even the gallon version D156 to maintain the finish. I actually prefer the Meguiar`s thin foam pads paired for the Meguiar;s liquids. They just work so well together.
It`s as close as one will get to the pro line based on consumer products.
This is true. I will add that ultimate polish has more polishing oils than M205 and a little less cut. The polishing oils will give a darkening effect compared to that of M205. Some like the darkening effect and others don`t. Both are great products.
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Three thoughts:
-I utterly despise dimpled pads; the dimples get filled with stuff I don`t want building up like that and also decrease the functional surface area
-M101 has replaced M105 for me, even though I never had the seemingly common issues with M105 and really liked the old v1.0. I simply *never* reach for M105 any more now that I have M101, even sold some to a fellow Autopian
-The Trade Secret Oils in M205 drove me *NUTS* as they`re really tough to completely clean off/out of certain paints. HD Polish is *IMO* infinitely superior in user-friendliness and works better *FOR ME* as a final Finishing Polish. On some paints M205 didn`t give me the gloss I want; looked fine until I redid with something better and saw a real improvement. I wish somebody would buy my M205, have nearly a gallon that I`ll *NEVER* touch
The ccs pads don`t seem to be as dimpled. They seem to be pushing these over the flat ones
Just to keep things simple, do I really need two finishing pads? Based on what Lake Country offers I`m thinking Orange for compounding, white for polishing.
For finishing I was looking at the black and red pads. Or black and blue. For the purpose of applying wax or sealant, am I better off with one type, or does it make a difference?
Also, big thanks for the link to the open box sale. I`ll be picking up a 7424XP at a great price.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesJustJesus liked this post
Bill1975, Congrats on getting a great machine for an absolutely outstanding price !!!
I am also with Accumulator in not liking dimpled, etc., pads..
I also want ALL of the pad surface working the same ALL the time..
So only Flat pads fulfill that need for me.. And they are so much easier to clean since the surface is flat...
You will be fine using the L/Country Orange pad for correction IF you really need it..
The L/Country White pad is actually a very versatile pad that can accomplish some correction and polishing, and it actually finishes really well..
What you see when you make a few Test Spots using both pads will determine more accurately what pads you really need to do the work..
This is another reason why I always want to have lots of each color of pad...
If you still want to go around the car a 3rd time, then the L/Country Black pad would be fine if you feel the need to further refine the gloss and clarity achieved with steps 1 and 2 or perhaps even just step 2...
The L/Country Red pad was designed for applying the wax or sealant to the vehicle as the Last Step..
I never use one because I dont want a bunch of different red pads with different things on them because its very difficult to remove these products...
Would rather just use a round, yellow foam pad and apply these products by hand..
Dan F
I was actually thinking of getting the black and red pads for finishing, but they don`t offer the red as a flat pad, only a CCS pad. So maybe a blue would work just as well for waxing. so maybe 3-4 each of 5.5" flat orange white and blue, plus some 6" microfiber bonnets to go over the included PC pad for removing/buffing wax.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesStokdgs liked this post
Bill1975- IMO you always need more than one of *ANY* and *EVERY* pad, if only because "[stuff] happens". Yeah, really...you wouldn`t believe.
IME it`s easy to go *too gentle*/soft on Finishing Pads. I don`t like extra-soft pads even for LSPing myself, didn`t like the Black LC pad last time I tried one (maybe they`re different these days..).
It wasn`t all *that* long ago that the only 4" pads for the Cyclo were the green polishing ones. Way too mild for *serious* correction, and most would say *MUCH* too harsh for Final Polishing let alone LSPing. And this was back in the days before b/c paint became common and the single stage of that era was generally kinda soft. Recipe for disaster?!? Not at all, we did just fine with only that one type of pad...well, once we got the serious correction out of the way via rotary first
Cool thanks. Yes, I always inspect my microfiber towels and wax applicator pads for debris before using then.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesStokdgs liked this post
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesBill1975 liked this post
Will do. Speaking of pads, is it necessary to use a pad conditioner while polishing? I`m thinking the very first pass with a fresh pad, it`s going to be mostly dry and will need several rotations to get the product covering the pad
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