correcting duct tape damage

[JerZCah]

I`m detailing a white Volvo XC70 that is long overdue for one. A couple of years ago the sunroof shattered and I used duct tape to hold a plastic sheet over the opening until the new glass arrived.
Since then there has been a blemish where the tape damaged the paint;sort of looks line some lines in the paint.
I will be using a pc 7424 for the first time and am working on the order of needed supplies. I have on hand Menzerna power gloss for the first polishing;when I applied it to the above mentioned area with a micro pad it did improve the paint quite a bit but some lines still remain.
I`ll be ordering lake country CCS pads-orange for the power gloss and am wondering if that will be enough to correct it or if this where a yellow pad is necessary. The power gloss will be followed up with intensive polish and final polish h using the appropriate pads.
Advice on the problem is appreciated.
thanks

[Stokdgs]

I would try some adhesive remover since that is what came off the tape and stuck to the paint..

What speed/s are you using the PC ?

It would work best with smaller pads - say the 5.25" with the 5" backing plate..
You want as much pad rotation as possible, and enough downward pressure but not too much that it stops the pad from rotating on speed 6..

What is the paint condition ? Swirled, spiderwebbed, dull, scratched, etc.. ?

What level do you want to take the paint to ?

Good luck !
Dan F

[JerZCah]

It has deep scratches that follow the along where the tape was. I haven`t done anything with the buffer;my attempt was with a micro pad. I wanted to see what advice was offered before I place the order
Also you mentioned 5.25 pad instead of 5.5 I had not thought of that;my order thus far is for an assortment of 5.5 pads
Any other advice is helpful

[JerZCah]

forgot I took a picture here it is

[wdmaccord]

for menz polishes, I would recommend a flat pad over CCS. Flat will work better in properly breaking down the abrasives. I`ve had issues with DAT polishes and CCS pads where I thought I broke down the polish completely, but there were little leftover scratches. Determined it was from some of the polish getting up in the CCS pockets and being reintroduced after the rest of the polish was broken down.

[Stokdgs]

I personally have no use for anything other than a flat pad, period...

I want the entire surface to be working on the paint, not just so much and the rest is in the holes in the pad surface..

The picture was great !

Those scratches look very light and should come out easily with the right product, pad, machine, and technique/process.. It looks like you dont have any adhesive on the paintwork, just light scratches..

Would take me about 1 minute or less with my Rotary..

You will want the smallest backing plate and pad in the 5" diameter +/-, so you can get the most Rotation from the machine...

Rotation is what breaks down the product best and corrects and polishes the most...

Yeah, I know... thats why I use Rotary Power...

You will be fine with your machine and pads and product..

You want speed, after starting off slowly to spread the product over the surface and getting the pad covered more evenly...

If I had to use a D/A, it would be wide open - speed 6 - to correct as quickly as possible, and then slow it down a little to polish out better if necessary...

White is easy and hard to do depending on your lighting...

Easy because you cant really see the defects as clearly, Harder, because you cant see the defects as clearly, and you want to get them all out...

One year, I Detailed about 60 Black vehicles in a row, and I was so happy to get anything that was a lighter color for a change, but then realized how much easier it was to see defects (with great lighting), in Black than in White...

Good luck !
Dan F