Overdoing it? Redundant steps?

**alexxxx89** · 06-22-2014, 10:17 PM

Still waiting for ONE day without torrential rain

In the meantime, I have come up with what seems to be the most thorough paint detail for cleaning up the beat up gold metallic paint on my Honda.

Wash (Is the orange Ajax dish soap any different from dawn?), decontaminate (I want to iron X everything, but meg`s clay and QD is what I have on hand), spot treat with UC and go over all the paint with scratchX 2.0 (not sure if this is still too aggressive but it is lower on the chart then the UC), then PB white diamond glaze (or black hole, depending on which is better suited for the desert mist metallic paint), klasse twins, and layers of 845.

I have the feeling that the AIO will strip the glaze, but I have no way of knowing for sure. Maybe KAIO, glaze, then seal? There isnt alot of guidance for glazing.

I`m all ears.

**bswombaugh** · 06-22-2014, 11:04 PM

First of all, do you have a DA polisher or are you trying to do this by hand? The polisher is going to work faster and produce better results especially on "beat up" paint.

Ultimate Compound can finish down LSP ready on lighter colors when using something like an orange flat pad or one of my favorites the Tangerine Hydrotech pad. You probably won`t need to use the Klasse AIO and could go straight to the glaze, then the sealant, then top it with the 845. If you are not animate about using the Klasse, I would suggest you replace it with Duragloss 105 sealant. There are a number of people who have used the combo of 105 topped with Collinite 845 and have had great looks with super durability. Just my 2 cents worth. There are a number of combinations out there that others are using that would work great also. I am sure that some others will chime in.

**wdmaccord** · 06-23-2014, 12:47 AM

Did you really mean ScratchX or did you mean SwirlX? I agree that you can use UC on the whole car with an orange pad. Seems to work pretty well on Honda paint and I have done it quite a few times. I`ll go straight to LSP after UC (do an IPA wipedown first). On lighter paints, BFWD topped with BFCS is a great combo.

I like M205 on a white pad as well if the paint is in decent shape.

**2shiny** · 06-23-2014, 01:00 AM

Do a testspot first. An orange pad with UCwill probably be to much for soft honda paint

**bswombaugh** · 06-23-2014, 02:32 AM

Originally Posted by wdmaccord

Did you really mean ScratchX or did you mean SwirlX? I agree that you can use UC on the whole car with an orange pad. Seems to work pretty well on Honda paint and I have done it quite a few times. I`ll go straight to LSP after UC (do an IPA wipedown first). On lighter paints, BFWD topped with BFCS is a great combo.

I like M205 on a white pad as well if the paint is in decent shape.

Yes - The M205 on a white pad is a very good combo for soft paint or paint that is in decent shape. The consumer version of M205 is Ultimate Polish which will also get you about the same results - slightly less cut.

**alexxxx89** · 06-23-2014, 08:03 AM

I do have a DA (Megs GV220v2), and several CCS pads (white, black, blue).

I did mean scratchX, but if UC finishes down without having to go over with something lighter, hallelujah!

I am set on klasse, because I like the ease of application and durability (much like the 845), and because I have it on hand (and it wasn`t cheap).

There isn`t too much oxidation (mostly on the rear bumper), just lots of swirl marks, a couple serious gouges down to the plastic, and fine scratches throughout that have dulled the finish overall.

So UC (with white ccs pad), IPA wipedown, glaze (black pad), seal (MF applicator), 845 (black or blue pad). Sounds gravy. Thanks for all the input peeps!

Any other suggestions are more than appreciated!

Edit: which glaze should I use? black hole or WD?

**bswombaugh** · 06-23-2014, 08:40 AM

You always want to do a test spot before you start on the whole vehicle. Always start out with the least aggressive product that it takes to get the job done. You could try the the Scratch-X , some Ultimate Polish, or M205 first and see what kind of results that you get before you use the more aggressive UC.

If you decide to go with the UC you can always finish with some Ultimate Polish if the finish has any hazing. I use the combination of UC followed by Ultimate Polish on a white pad all the time. It gives great results very silmilar to the popular M105 and M205 combo.

As far as the Glaze goes - I would lean toward the WD because of the lighter color of the car. Black Hole really works well on deep dark colors with WD geared more towards lighter brighter colors.

**alexxxx89** · 06-23-2014, 12:03 PM

Originally Posted by bswombaugh

You always want to do a test spot before you start on the whole vehicle. Always start out with the least aggressive product that it takes to get the job done. You could try the the Scratch-X , some Ultimate Polish, or M205 first and see what kind of results that you get before you use the more aggressive UC.

If you decide to go with the UC you can always finish with some Ultimate Polish if the finish has any hazing. I use the combination of UC followed by Ultimate Polish on a white pad all the time. It gives great results very similar to the popular M105 and M205 combo.

As far as the Glaze goes - I would lean toward the WD because of the lighter color of the car. Black Hole really works well on deep dark colors with WD geared more towards lighter brighter colors.

That is why I got the scratchX, not as aggressive as the UC, but more aggressive than UP. I guess if they were designed as a pair though then it makes sense to use them together.

It`s difficult for me to dichotomize colors into "Light & dark". Thanks for the recommendation of WD.

**WaxAddict** · 06-23-2014, 04:32 PM

Originally Posted by alexxxx89

.... Wash (Is the orange Ajax dish soap any different from dawn?), ....

Why wash with dish soap? Are you trying to strip LSP? If so, there are better ways. Read Todd`s article on Car Care Myths.

**alexxxx89** · 06-23-2014, 10:32 PM

Originally Posted by WaxAddict

Why wash with dish soap? Are you trying to strip LSP? If so, there are better ways. Read Todd`s article on Car Care Myths.

Yeah, there`s a layer of cleaner wax throughout. Plus, the only soap I have is a wash&wax or a gentle soap.

You make a good point about the dish soap. I really dont want to dry out the 11 year old seals.

**Todd@RUPES** · 06-24-2014, 06:28 AM

No need for the glaze at all...

KAIO will remove the glaze and Sealant/Glaze will not stick if you put a glaze over KAIO.

**WaxAddict** · 06-24-2014, 08:37 AM

Originally Posted by alexxxx89

Yeah, there`s a layer of cleaner wax throughout. Plus, the only soap I have is a wash&wax or a gentle soap.

You make a good point about the dish soap. I really dont want to dry out the 11 year old seals.

Luckily, we have an excellent option "at the store" with Meguires Gold Class Car Wash.