My new toy arrived today

**VaderGT** · 07-30-2013, 09:35 AM

I did her entire car lastnight..I got a pretty good feel for the machine now. I was able to get it done in like 3hr for a 1stepper with a green buffnshine and v36. I wish i could use something else but this paint is soo stupid nothing seems to be user friendly on removal. I have been trying to find something and so far the CG v polishes have worked best. I dont know what the deal is though. My car is a 2012 WRX she got a 2012 Impreza we both have dark gray metallic but my car is less of a hassle on polish removal her car is so much worse. the rupes does pretty good at speed doing sections. I use 3 drops after that new pad amount

**Evan.J** · 07-30-2013, 10:29 AM

Originally Posted by TroyScherer

I`m glad its working for you.

A few comments:

I know Subaru paint is notoriously sticky and hard to work with. I would try working on harder paint first to get the hang of the Rupes. I have been using my Acura and VW to get a feeling for both ends of the spectrum.
I would suggest priming the pad, and then using less polish.
I would try using a polish that breaks down so you can see when its time to stop and wipe off. (Once a polish is broken down it should be semi-clear)

Just to add to what Troy has said priming the pad is key. You should try HD polish I have found this to work great with the rupes.

Dont buff on those body lines!

Like you stated i think the conditions the first night played a roll in how the machine would with the pad and polish and how all those worked with Subaru paint.

**ZL1Mark** · 07-30-2013, 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by VaderGT

. It bogged down SOOO much easier then the GG did and well it prove to be no faster or better then the GG was.

Exactly my thoughts. I`ve said it before. However, with a lot of practice and proper technique, you can achieve great results with the Rupes, but it definitely does bog down with the slightest tilt of the pad(even with the KB washer mod). The Rupes does very well on flat panels.

**Woob** · 08-06-2013, 12:02 PM

Firstly, ask yourself why you need so much pressure and intensive speed. Moving from a 8mm throw to 21mm throw is HUGELY different in paint action. 5-6 speed in general for most paint correction people is a bit high especially if you are using microfiber pads (or non foam based).

The griots on speed 6 is pretty strong, but I`ve read if you measure the OPM`s the motor overcompensates and revs extremely high (something like 6K+ of some sort). With the 15, get a nice flat pad (B&S work great) and just learn the overall smoothness/feel with the right products (non diminishing). Pad Prime and load it up, there is a reason why most hardcore paint correction detailers use it.

Just because it may seem to bog or not seem as fast doesn`t mean there isn`t any polishing/leveling occurring on the paint. I have used the 21 vs 15, IMO the 21 is a big tank while the 15 is exactly for detailing, smooth easy polishing.

**groebuck** · 08-06-2013, 07:58 PM

Wooooob!!!

**The Driver** · 08-08-2013, 05:09 PM

If the paint is picky... change the polish.

I`ve used PB, CG and various others as far as polishes. When I run into a problem, I immediately drop back to menzerna. It out performs... everytime. The only other line up I could swear by is meg`s.

I` am interested to try HD stuff though.

**Evan.J** · 08-08-2013, 05:48 PM

Originally Posted by The Driver

I` am interested to try HD stuff though.

You won`t be disappointed.

**VaderGT** · 08-08-2013, 06:42 PM

Originally Posted by The Driver

If the paint is picky... change the polish.

I`ve used PB, CG and various others as far as polishes. When I run into a problem, I immediately drop back to menzerna. It out performs... everytime. The only other line up I could swear by is meg`s.

I` am interested to try HD stuff though.

guess you missed the part I said I tried M101, FG400, Sonax Perfect Finish, CarPro Fixer, CG V36. Menzerna is an absolute no no on my subaru paint. I might as well spray it with concrete and quit there. It does NOT buff off

I have a sample of HD polish i have been wanting to try and see if it acts just as bad on removal as everything else I have tried on this paint

**The Driver** · 08-08-2013, 06:50 PM

Originally Posted by VaderGT

guess you missed the part I said I tried M101, FG400, Sonax Perfect Finish, CarPro Fixer, CG V36. Menzerna is an absolute no no on my subaru paint. I might as well spray it with concrete and quit there. It does NOT buff off

I have a sample of HD polish i have been wanting to try and see if it acts just as bad on removal as everything else I have tried on this paint

What machine are you using? I find FG likes to be wet. You CANNOT dry buff with FG. The best results I get from FG are right after I do a pad clean an a spin dry. That level of dampness seems to be perfect, anything more you`ll dilute the cutting power any less an it`s sure to cake.

I was experimenting with the water ratio`s an polish ratio`s, I have to say it weighs HUGE on any chem cutter. I did a whole panel in one shot and another took me over 6 passes. Play with the pad dampness and 2 or 3 quick sprays on the pad as a topper.

Hope that helps!

**VaderGT** · 08-08-2013, 07:17 PM

ok once again..Menzerna does NOT work with the subaru paint I have..no matter what you do. its the way the pain is..so many people complain about subaru and sticky paint.
with my Griots or my Rupes 15

**Todd@RUPES** · 08-09-2013, 07:11 AM

Food for thought, with smaller stroke machines you need to have some pad rotation when doing correction. The thicker and wider the pad (relative to the stroke) the more rotation needed to counteract the pad`s characteristics of absorbing the orbital motion.

With large-stroke machines such as the RUPES, pad rotation (while nice) isn`t necessary. Most of the polishing action comes from the friction created by movement of the orbit.

**ZL1Mark** · 08-17-2013, 07:30 PM

Originally Posted by Todd Helme

With large-stroke machines such as the RUPES, pad rotation (while nice) isn`t necessary. Most of the polishing action comes from the friction created by movement of the orbit.

Ummm, whoa!

**ZL1Mark** · 08-17-2013, 07:32 PM

Originally Posted by Todd Helme

With large-stroke machines such as the RUPES, pad rotation (while nice) isn`t necessary. Most of the polishing action comes from the friction created by movement of the orbit.

So, you`re saying that if the pad never rotated on the Rupes, you`d get the same correction as if it did rotate?

**Concours.John** · 08-18-2013, 12:25 AM

The one thing about the Rupes on getting results. Act like you have an egg between the pad and paint. Once you get that feel the machine does the rest.
Pressure like the PC and Griots should be discarded.

It`s the same as racing in the rain. Pretend you have an egg between you and the pedals. Once that is your process the rest is control.