Help with spoiler

[Concours.John]

Thanks John - yeah I scuffed....and we`ll see how long it looks good. I had a place on the hood where I pulled up the clear and was able to use this same can and get good results about a year ago. Still looks good. I realize the two key things here are getting a good bond and enuf clear on so it can be polished...the minute this part looks bad it`s coming off and over to my body shop friend for a professional re-shot with Sikkens......

Bobby beat me to to my questions. The one thing I always remember once you paint. It`s just like corection but opposite. Too fast while buffing = not enough removal. Too fast while painting= not enough added. Too slow while buffing= too much removed. Too slow while painting= too much added. It`s all a happy medium and prep is always key both ways.

Best of luck with this!

[glen e]

Bobby beat me to to my questions. The one thing I always remember once you paint. It`s just like corection but opposite. Too fast while buffing = not enough removal. Too fast while painting= not enough added. Too slow while buffing= too much removed. Too slow while painting= too much added. It`s all a happy medium and prep is always key both ways.

Best of luck with this!

john/bobby - one final question - GG DA or Flex? or even my 3" GG DA?

Time is not important - I`m afraid the flex might burn right thru the clear based on what you were saying about rattle can clear - I now have 3 coats thin and 2 heavier coats on it...all still with no runs..

[rzatch]

Everyone has given you great advice so far so go with what they have already said. As far as which machine to start with, use the one you are most comfortable with. UC with a GG and a orange pad will take out 2000 grit wet sanding scratches with no problem as long as you use a good quality sand paper there is a difference. You should also use a sanding block or sponge so that you don`t get pressure points from your fingers you need flat even pressure. IMO your spoiler with this type of clear isn`t the the time to experiment with your new machine. Also don`t be so afraid of the Flex, it`s not like it`s some kind of paint animal that is going to just start eating the paint off. Hope it all works out for you.

[Concours.John]

john/bobby - one final question - GG DA or Flex?

Time is not important - I`m afraid the flex might burn right thru the clear based on what you were saying about rattle can clear - I now have 3 coats thin and 2 heavier coats on it...all still with no runs..

I always use 3" pads on spoilers its easier to control near edges. I have a 3` air angle grinder with the 3 in pads. A RA will be much safer though. I would suggest the Griots 3 in da you will love it for tight spaces and bumpers. It s around $80. I would suggest a 3M scotch brite scuff plus wipe downs and more coats though first. You will have more to work with as far as clear. This can work since you prepped the peice you just need room to work with. Spray cans provide half the film build a true gun do.

This could be the perfect time if you have a compressor to practice with a real gun. Get the proper filters and you may get hooked. The key is always getting as good gun. Most paint suppliers will give you the proper mix and materials you need. Warning you`ll want to paint everything in site once you spray with a good gun.

[glen e]

thanks so much guys..I`ll let this sit for a few days and attack it mid week...

....I already own the 3" GG and have used it for years...love it...

[Concours.John]

If you do you will only need a 3m "grey" it is the least aggressive besides the "white" with the paint being fresh you need no more. Most paint suppliers carry them and you can buy them individually. you wont need more than two just make sure they dont load up with paint and create grooves from build up. "light touch here"

[glen e]

If you do you will only need a 3m "grey" it is the least aggressive besides the "white" with the paint being fresh you need no more. Most paint suppliers carry them and you can buy them individually. you wont need more than two just make sure they dont load up with paint and create grooves from build up. "light touch here"

sorry john, lost you here.... "3M grey" what?

[Concours.John]

[QUOTE=glen e;420782]sorry john, lost you here.... "3M grey" what?[/Q


3M "grey" scotch brite sanding pads. If you have a Carquest or paint suppplier near you they can get them.

[glen e]

[quote=Concours.John;420784]

sorry john, lost you here.... "3M grey" what?[/Q


3M "grey" scotch brite sanding pads. If you have a Carquest or paint suppplier near you they can get them.

found them on amazon- free shipping- here wed - perfect...I`ll put some more clear on tomorrow and then be ready on wed....

[rzatch]

Glen the scotch brite are to scuff the paint before you spray it.

[glen e]

Glen the scotch brite are to scuff the paint before you spray it.

ok..i`m gonna spray it again so I`ll wait..also I have 2500 and 3000 3M paper...

[glen e]

OK guys - update...I looked at the spoiler this morning and there is no way I`m gonna get enuf clear on this very visible horizontal surface with a rattle can - John is right - to be perfect , it needs a gun...so I stripped all the clear off - not hard at all, proving TO ME my point of how thin it was - even after 4 rattle can coats...and scuffed it again with 1000 and took it to my body shop buddy who painted my boat. He`s gonna shoot it the next time he has to shoot clear for a job - charge me zero - and give it back to me ready to polish...stay tuned...This is the kind of job he does: 7 years later and still looks new:

[BobbyG]

Glen,

I think that`s a great idea and well worth the time and effort. Having someone shoot a few coats of clear will give you exactly what you were hoping to achieve....

[rzatch]

Best idea I`ve heard all day. Hmm come think of it i`m home alone and only talked to a telemarketer earlier so........ JK, Glen I think this is without a doubt going to be the best in the end.

[glen e]

OK it`s done. My friend Pat shot it with 3 coats of Sikkens clear in 20 min, no sanding in between. I took it to him prepped with 1000 scuffed. And just as John had said, there was no way I was gonna get the job done like he did. Pat tells me his computerized gun shoots TWICE as much pure clear as a rattle can and is catalyzed, meaning 2 part like epoxy. Rattle cans are not - so here it is- all done:

The before:


The after:


The whole spoiler done:



Now here`s the kicker - absolutely NO DETAILING has been done to this - -compound or glaze wise - this is how it comes straight out of the booth. And frankly, I don`t think I`m gonna do anything except hit it with some BF spray polymer - it is perfect when done right.

Thanks for all the help here, and it goes to show sometimes it`s not about subtracting/leveling to get a shine - sometimes it`s about adding paint with a talented hand. Pat`s place is B&R Autobody -Pompano Beach, Fl