Orange or Yellow LC Pad? w/ SSR2.5

**jgh1987** · 03-15-2007, 10:32 AM

I have a black `03 Ram that im going to polish this weekend. I dont have any pics but the truck has some pretty good swirling and scratches, also has some REALLY bad mineral depositing on the passenger side of it from sprinkler water drying on it. I know I could always test the orange out first and step it up to the yellow if my desired results werent met. But on the packaging of the yellow (its an EDGE from autogeek) it says that its very agressive and to not use it on new or like new paint. Does that only apply to rotary users or dual action as well? I have a feeling that its only talking about circular, but I could be wrong. Also, would FP II via polishing pad be a nice follow up to the 2.5?

edit: I will be using a PC if you couldnt tell from the above.

**CharlesW** · 03-15-2007, 10:47 AM

While I don`t know what the "Yellow" or "Orange" pad denotes as to the pads intended use, (I know, there is a reference, but I`m not interested in researching pads), here is a link to a thread with some great results with SSR 2.5.
http://www.detailcity.org/forums/pai...hlight=SSR+2.5

Charles

**Big Leegr** · 03-15-2007, 10:50 AM

The yellow is pretty aggressive. It will leave marring/hazing that you will need to polish out after.
Always try to use the least aggressive method first. Try the 2.5 with the orange first. If you don`t get it all gone on the first try, apply again. The orange should be good enough, IMHO.
Also, you should step down to a milder polish/pad before applying your wax/sealant. Black tends to show hazing more than lighter colors.

You could also try clay or a vinegar rinse to try getting rid of the water spots.

**jgh1987** · 03-15-2007, 10:58 AM

Charles, thanks for the link.

Big, yeah thats what I thought...which is what I will do. As far as stepping down to a milder polish before finishing it off, the only polish I have capable of doing that would be the Menzerna FP II. I was asking if it would work well in cleaning up the mess SSR 2.5 will leave behind. Im sure it will. I tried last week to remove the water spots with the FPII and white pad but did nothing, and did not have a cutting pad at the time. Damn there was something else I wanted to ask but forgot, oh well :-P

**budman3** · 03-15-2007, 11:59 AM

You may even get by with a polishing pad and SSR2.5 depending on how bad the swirls are. SSR2.5 will tackle some very harsh swirling. You could use the orange light cut pad but be aware that the pad will induce some micromarring- it isn`t the polish making the micromarring. Just crank the PC up and work the product in and you should be good to go. FPII is pretty mild so it may or may not clear up the micromarring the pad leaves..

**Pockets** · 03-15-2007, 03:29 PM

Originally Posted by budman3

You may even get by with a polishing pad and SSR2.5...

x2 I would try the SSR2.5 with the polishing pad first and really work it in. You would be suprised on what that could get out. The good part about that is the paint is then ready for a polish without using another product like SSR1 first (to get out the micromarring that the pad left behind). Good luck and tell us how it goes

**Poorboy** · 03-15-2007, 05:05 PM

I would defintely start with the Orange with the SSR2.5 since there is "pretty good swirls and scratches" . Part of being a detailer for money is assessing the situation and picking the right combo for the job. Even though it is safest to start with the least aggressive method, it is sometimes not prudent to do so. Time is money and if the work calls for some pretty heavy polishing, then going more aggressive and then using a less aggressive product to finish up will be better. I would not use a more aggressive pad than the orange unless the finish is trashed. Like Budman said, crank the PC up and let the product do its work

**Pockets** · 03-15-2007, 05:33 PM

Originally Posted by Poorboy

I would defintely start with the Orange with the SSR2.5 since there is "pretty good swirls and scratches" . Part of being a detailer for money is assessing the situation and picking the right combo for the job. Even though it is safest to start with the least aggressive method, it is sometimes not prudent to do so. Time is money and if the work calls for some pretty heavy polishing, then going more aggressive and then using a less aggressive product to finish up will be better. I would not use a more aggressive pad than the orange unless the finish is trashed. Like Budman said, crank the PC up and let the product do its work

It`s kinda hard to tell without pics if you could get some up that would be great. And if you cant thats fine to

Pics just give some backround to the situation

**Troy@Protekt** · 03-15-2007, 07:08 PM

I`ve never been able to get a yellow pad to cut quicker than an orange pad. The orange pad has always been my choice. You can get faster/better results with an orange pad IMO, because your not having to go back and fix the marring the yellow pad causes.

Troy

**jgh1987** · 03-15-2007, 07:25 PM

hey guys, appreciate all the responses

I tried the Orange Pad w/ the 2.5 and it worked really well, and left behind the marring as expected. I followed it up with FPII and left a beautiful finish. I will be taking before and after pics and will put them in their own thread just sit tight :-)

**wannafbody** · 03-15-2007, 09:18 PM

the orange pad is supposed to have roughly 90% of the cut of the yellow pad but will leave a better finish

**jgh1987** · 03-16-2007, 06:26 PM

Quick question,

is there any way to use the SSR 2.5 and orange to leave a finish without the marring? The polishing is going pretty well but having to follow everything up with the FP II is proving to become a pain. And im starting to run a little low on product with FP II. I think I had actually done it once on a panel and didnt realize it, after just a few passes of 2.5 it left a nice finish without marring. Do you just give it a nice couple quick passes with the only pressure being the PC`s weight? It would be great if I could get that down.

**jgh1987** · 03-16-2007, 07:35 PM

I was just thinking, I said that I was getting more a marr free finish with the 2.5 at the beginning of my polishing. Could the bad marring started to run into be a result of the orange pad getting a pretty decent build up of polish? I just cleaned it and would like to see if it makes a difference but my halogen burned out :-(. Cant get a new one till tomorrow.

**budman3** · 03-16-2007, 08:16 PM

Yes, the build up of product on the pad may cause some marring. This is where you use a stiff nylon brush and brush off the extra product. I actually take a terry towel and wipe as much off as I can and then continue on. As for the cutting pad not causing marring... not sure but if your happy with the results then so be it. Have you tried just using a polishing pad and seeing what the results were?

**Bellydawg** · 03-17-2007, 08:35 AM

I have found that using the LC white pad (polishing) and the SSR2.5 as my first step for removing swirls and tough water spots. This usually leaves no marring. If need be, I will follow with another LC white pad and SSR1 for a good finish.

Unless the swirls are heavy or there is a deeper scratch I will then use the LC orange pad.

Good luck.