Looking for advice on paint correction.

[Buffingtech1]

I work in a body shop, for over a year now, as a buffing tech. I struggle, with swirl marks, and scratches not wanting to come out. I use a dewalt 9 inch rotary buffer, with a wool cutting pad first with wizards mystic cut at 1400 rpm’s. Then I go with the 3m gray swirl removing pad with the mystic swirl remover from wizards at 1200 rpm’s. Then finish with the 3m blue foam pad with wizards ultra fine polish. And still seeing scratches and swirls in the panels. The painters use the ppg deltron 5030 clear coat which I think is really soft. I can get all the swirls out and scratches sometimes but as soon as I wash and dry the vehicle the scratches and swirls are right back in it. Any advice ?

[noorth]

Wet sanding?

[Dan]

I think you need to figure out if it`s the wash causing the swirls or removing the fillers/oils that mask the swirls.

How are your results on hard factory clear?

[Buffingtech1]

Not sure, we only cut and buff the panels, that our shop fixes and repaints other than just polishing the adjacent panels. As far as washing a factory clear they normally are already scratched and swirl up before we wash them when they are first brought in so it’s hard to tell

[Dan]

Not sure, we only cut and buff the panels, that our shop fixes and repaints other than just polishing the adjacent panels. As far as washing a factory clear they normally are already scratched and swirl up before we wash them when they are first brought in so it’s hard to tell

Live a little and experiment on factory clear.

Also polish then remove the oils and inspect without washing.

[Buffingtech1]

I always wipe, compound and polish off, after buffing and polishing and it always seems to put new scratches in it. Using always new clean microfiber towels and a little inspection spray. As far as trying to buff factory clear I rarely have time to and the shop doesn’t want me buffing anything but what we had painted. Due to risk of making a mistake on a panel we didn’t fix.

[Dan]

I always wipe, compound and polish off, after buffing and polishing and it always seems to put new scratches in it. Using always new clean microfiber towels and a little inspection spray. As far as trying to buff factory clear I rarely have time to and the shop doesn’t want me buffing anything but what we had painted. Due to risk of making a mistake on a panel we didn’t fix.

Do you own a car or walk to work?

[Buffingtech1]

I have a vehicle I tried buffing on it when I first started out and ended up burning it pretty bad. And was full of swirls and buffer trails after i got done. I am reminded of it every day at work but yet. I was trained as a painter never had to buff on anything.

[Setec Astronomy]

Sorry you have gotten some snarky answers, let me make sure I understand, are you sanding the fresh paint first, and then starting with the wool pad and compound to remove the sanding marks? Then the idea is to go with the swirl remover and fine polish to refine the finish? You say you always use a new microfiber; how is the cleanliness of your pads?

Also, the swirls reappearing after the wash sure sounds like the compounds/polishes you are using have some oils/fillers that are being removed by the wash process.

[Buffingtech1]

Yes, I’m wet sanding out the dirt nibs, with 2000 grit, then trizact 3000 and 5000. Then using the wool pad, I keep pads very clean as well and I’m not sure if the wizards products we use have fillers in them or not. Also we were using the perfect it 3m 3 step process, but seemed to be to aggressive for the clear the painters use. Honestly I’ve been buffing for a little over a year with no experience on buffing and I’m really starting to hate it and have almost quit my job several times because it never seems to turn out when I get done with jobs. And the shop won’t send me for any training unless required to keep their gold standard for the manufacturers

[Setec Astronomy]

Honestly, if you`re sanding out to 5000 grit, I`m not sure you need to start with a wool pad. Can you try skipping to the next step and see how that works out?

[Buffingtech1]

I have tried that as well and it didn’t remove all of the sanding marks plus it left a major haze after that and swirls

[Bill D]

I’m not sure how great the abrasive products being used are. Do you have access to other compounds and polishes ( maybe Meguiar’s for example) to try out? Sometimes not only do different pads need to be used, but different compounds/polishes are also needed

[Buffingtech1]

We have used 3m compounds and polishes and meguiars and not very good results we are limited on different products as far as what our shop will approve to purchase. As far as different pads we only use the 3m wool pad and white cutting pad and the grey pad and blue pads all 3m 9 inch pads for rotary

[Setec Astronomy]

I have tried that as well and it didn’t remove all of the sanding marks plus it left a major haze after that and swirls

So you`re doing 3 polishing steps, and if you skip the first one, the second step doesn`t remove the sanding marks, ok, I understand that--but if it leaves major haze...wouldn`t step 2 do that after your wool/compound step also? How can it leave hazing if you skip the compounding if it doesn`t create hazing when you do the compounding?

Also, if you still have sanding marks after 5000 grit, are you sure you are spending enough time with the 3000 and 5000? Also, are you wet sanding, dry sanding, by hand, or machine? Just another factor here, a 9" pad has a very high surface speed at the OD, and you can generate a lot of heat, which may be drying out your compound/polish, is that possible?