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  1. #1

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    Fixing rusted rock chips prior to paint touch up

    On our fusion we have some rock chips that I`d like to touch up with a dr color chip kit prior to detailing in a little bit. My question is for the few chips I see where there is rust how does one go about removing the rust? Soaking it in iron x paste?
    Anyone ever use this product from loctite?




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  2. #2

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    Re: Fixing rusted rock chips prior to paint touch up

    Quote Originally Posted by Astouffer512 View Post
    On our fusion we have some rock chips that I`d like to touch up with a dr color chip kit prior to detailing in a little bit. My question is for the few chips I see where there is rust how does one go about removing the rust? Soaking it in iron x paste?
    Anyone ever use this product from loctite?




    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
    Iron-X paste all day long; I have seen the Loctite product wreak havoc on paint.

  3. #3

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    Re: Fixing rusted rock chips prior to paint touch up

    Thanks.

    After the ironx paste soak any other steps (other than a good. Lean with some sort if panel wipe / IPA solution) prior to using the Dr colorchip?

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  4. #4

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    Re: Fixing rusted rock chips prior to paint touch up

    Astouffer512- I try to keep all Rust Treatments off any paint that I`m not redoing. Rust Converters/Removers/etc...all of `em. Some are definitely OK (e.g., ValuGard`s "B") but those have always been too gentle to do the job effectively for me.

    If you want to use a Rust Converter (my fave has been off the market for ages), I`d do a pinpoint application with a tiny (disposable) brush or a toothpick/etc.

    Assuming you`re not gonna just live with it (yes, seriously), I`d almost certainly try to remove at least the vast majority of the existing rust via mechanical/abrasive means.

    The "Rust Removal Pens" that use filaments (usually fiberglass) can be OK for larger ones, but I find them hard to control 100% (back to that "don`t damage surrounding paint" issue) and often less effective than one might expect.

    When I`m fixing them (o.e., not just living with them...did I mention that? ) I grind the existing rust out with a tiny (diamond) burr on a rotary tool, then treat with a pinpoint application of a Metal Prep/Etch product.

    I usually use a Paint Over Rust (*BUT NOT POR15!*) for the primer and apply the touchup paint to that during the proper "OK to paint over without sanding first to ensure adhesion" window (usually a few hours after application, the product info will give specifics).

    Then I wait for the touchup paint to cure for a while before I do anything to it other than maybe a quick wipe with OCW.

    Note that DrColorchips works *infinitely* better for me when I apply it with a tiny brush instead of using their "smear it around" method. And/but it`s never all that hard, stays kinda fragile so you have to be careful not to just polish it off, even with rather mild products.

    While I`m currently just watching/waiting on the Tahoe`s rusted chips (many of which are over a decade old easy..and that includes annual salt exposure) and not having any problems from doing that, I *have* used the above method numerous times with results that are as good as I can get with a brush-applied touchup (which isn`t as good as my "good" painter used to do, but still good enough for me and I set the bar kinda high).

    EDIT: I`d *absolutely* use the right Pre-paint Prep Products, and *NOT* IPA. I know it`s not uncommon for people to reach for that, but I can`t understand why; it`s not like *ANY* paint/body guy would ever use that, it`s just not the right solvent for such jobs. (Actually, I can`t even recall the last time I used IPA for *anything* on any vehicle..been many years as I only use it as the first passes on deteriorated rubber.)

 

 

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