The Best Clay?

[Accumulator]

RMD- Yeah, that Sonus Glyde really does call for rinsing, or even a light washing.

Glad you like the ONR, it would`ve made life easier for me had it worked out. I`ve used IUDJ a few times trying to convince myself...but nah, just not right for me.


And yeah, combining a chemical decon with clay can work great. I`ve clayed while the chemicals are dwelling, but !oh man! does it mess up the clay fast!

[RMD]

Claying while the chemicals are working would certainly save time. I tend to get pretty close to the paint when I`m claying to look for anything on the surface, but I don`t want to get near any of the iron remover products like iron-x or corrosol due to the god awful smell. I stand back and let those things do their job after spraying them on.

[WaxAddict]

Great answers, and I too can recommend Sonus and Clay Magic Bllue and Poorboys.

Maybe more important is what Not to buy. Namely, the no-name blue stuff that some detailing places sell, the blue bricks from China, and the blue clay that says "3M" all over it, often found on eBay. Those are all way too hard and you can`t knead them.

I also find Mothers clay (as sold in stores with the QD) to be too sticky.

[kkritsilas]

I use the 3M marked clay all the time. I don`t find that it is at all difficult to knead, as long as the temperature is normal (>18C, mid 60s F). It seems to hold up well. It is not a "fine grade" clay, but more of a medium. Not an issue for me because I only use clay to remove contaminants prior to machine polishing. It does leave some marring behind, but because, as previously stated, it is followed by a machine polish I don`t have an issue. I use it with CG`s Luber, but have recently moved to Nanoskins`s Glide. My first clay was the Mother`s yellow clay in the plastic jar. It was OK, but up here (Canada) a 100 gm. piece is close to $40, in my mind, way too expensive for regular use, and to be honest, it didn`t work any better than the 3M marked clay that I got from eBay.

I will be trying the medium Nanoskin sponge in the near future, just to avoid having to stop and knead, and as a safeguard against dropping it (hasn`t happened yet, but will, sooner or later).

[Dwhite0960]

I enjoy the griots clay it doesn`t mar paint and pulls contamination off with ease. Gary dean has a clay bar from Japan he imports that gets very kind words, I will be trying this once the last of my griots clay is out. I found the griots at advance last year on clearance for 5 bucks vs the typical 20 I bought the shelf. Funny thing is since it sold so well they kept stocking it and haven`t sold any since the dust on the lids is horrendous, maybe I`ll get more cheap griots soon

[Accumulator]

Dwhite0960- Yeah, I used Griot`s for ages, starting with their green version. Only switched to the Sonus so I could be more gentle on my LSPs.

Huh, hadn`t heard of Garry`s clay...I like his IUDJ so much that I`d be inclined to think his clay`s probably OK too. BUT...I bet he recommends using IUDJ as the Clay Lube, and while I`ll do that now and then for a little spot-claying, it`s sure not my preferred lube by a long shot.

[Dwhite0960]

Well of course he wants to sell more iudj lol. He has clayed on video and went straight to lap so it`s gentle I would say. I hear nothing but good things about his stuff. The clay is 20 which is pretty standard in the market some of his liquids can get pricey imo. I have a order coming from him this week so we shall see what the hype is about

[JustJesus]

And yeah, combining a chemical decon with clay can work great. I`ve clayed while the chemicals are dwelling, but !oh man! does it mess up the clay fast!

It totally does!! The one time I tried it, it hurt me to see the clay come apart.

Britemax clay is supposed to be chemical resistant. Per Autopia store:

Britemax Claymax Chemical Resistant Clay Bar is the first of it`s kind - A chemical resistant Clay bar! The unique properties of a Britemax Claymax Chemical Resistant Clay Bar allow this special clay bar to be used in conjunction with Britemax Iron Max Iron Remover to conjoin your decontamination into one simple step!

Claying while the chemicals are working would certainly save time.

In my case, it totally saved time. I used Poorboy`s World Clay Lube, over 3D`s BDX (iron remover) and Poorboy`s Clay. The PB`s lube smells sooooo good, I recall it helping mask the BDX foul odor. At least that`s how I remember it

Huh, hadn`t heard of Garry`s clay...I like his IUDJ so much that I`d be inclined to think his clay`s probably OK too.

he mentioned it in one of his videos. He searched and searched for a clay that he liked and would sell through his site. I believe he gets it overseas, but don`t think he mentioned country of origin. Looks like a generic blue clay bar wrapped in plastic.

[Dwhite0960]

His clay package has made in Japan written on it, and he also states in his some videos it`s from Japan. The color is a gray/whiteish color and it`s a 100g bar

[JustJesus]

Dwight: thanks! I`m forgetting too much lately. Well, it`s been a while that I`ve watched that video and wasn`t planning on ordering his clay?

[grungy]

If dealing with overspray, I have found the clay towels to be far better due to speed (large surface area) and noob safety. I loaned my towel to a neighbor who bought clay magic for some latex overspray from house painting after he got about 1 square foot done in 30 minutes with the clay. Finished his car in less than an hour (both front fenders, hood and windows) and was thrilled to be done that evening. YMMV, but for large flat areas, hard to beat the clay towels or pads. Clay cannot be beat in small/tight areas.

[Accumulator]

If dealing with overspray, I have found the clay towels to be far better ...

Noting how I`m always so, uhm...critical of the towels, I bet they *ARE* much better for overspray! Since you`d be doing significant correction anyhow, even *I* can see their advantage for that. (I once used clay to remove latex housepaint overspray from my K9 guy`s E250, that was a bit of a job to say the least.)

[Dwhite0960]

For heavy overspray using apc diluted helps make quick work in the removal process. However it eats your clay you will burn through a couple if not more bars on a full size vehicle. If you can get it priced right it saves a bunch of time though and you can make up for the clay loss on the next job vs just one for the day. Just a tip I got from a pro a few years back. He is on his own so speed helps bring in extra but he has high standards. His work is great and his tip is useful in the right setting

[Boden]

Noting how I`m always so, uhm...critical of the towels, I bet they *ARE* much better for overspray! Since you`d be doing significant correction anyhow, even *I* can see their advantage for that. (I once used clay to remove latex housepaint overspray from my K9 guy`s E250, that was a bit of a job to say the least.)

For latex overspray alcahol is a solvent. A 60/40 H2O/IPA will wipe it off.

[Accumulator]

For latex overspray alcahol is a solvent. A 60/40 H2O/IPA will wipe it off.

Never thought to try that....heh heh, put myself through more work than necessary. I`ll remember that should it happen again...thought of using Mineral Spirits but did the clay instead.