Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikesdanlc95 liked this post
Thanks for the answer. I guess I should`ve phrased my question differently. I meant to say if I use the one product, wouldn`t that call for one type of pad instead of two? Or can I use it as more of a compound with a rougher pad and polish with a smoother pad? I hope that makes sense.
Also, should I not get one to apply wax with as well? Do people typically use the polisher to buff the wax after it drys or remove it by hand with a microfiber cloth?
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikesnickclark08 liked this post
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikesdanlc95 liked this post
Yes the choice of pad will effect the finish. If I was in your shoes and going to use an AOI, I would use a medium cut pad. This gives you enough power to remove most swirls and fine scratches. As you said, this is a 14 yr old DD and you are not looking for show car results. Buy 4-6 pads and clean them often.
I you you are buying an AOI (All in One) your wax is in the AOI. This does not stop you from applying a wax after the AOI, but it does question the use of an AOI. You could just buy a medium polish (e.g. Menzerma 2500), then choose a Last Step Product (LSP) of your choice (e.g. Wax, sealant, coating). You can remove wax with the buffer, but I prefer to remove wax by hand. If you are using the buffer to remove wax you will need microfiber cloths that fit on your buffers pad made to remove wax. Hope I`ve helped.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesMary B liked this post
The Harbor Freight DA with 20% off coupon is a good deal. There are some video`s on how to repack it with grease so it runs cool and quite. I`ve had one for several years now and have had no problems with it.
For a little more then twice the money you can get the GG6 with a life time warranty. Griot`s Garage is a fantastic company that has top notch customer service and back their product like no other company I know of. I bought a used GG6 off Ebay awhile back and had problems with the speed dial not working. It was still covered under warranty even though I bought it used from a third party. Within 6 days after mailing the polisher to them, I received a brand new polisher on my door step. Now that is great customer service backing their product!!!
Of the two choices you listed I would choose neither! Like Mary B said if you have to wait and save up for one, that would be the way to go. Good luck with your choice and welcome to the forum.
I`m a newbie with very limited experience. I`ve corrected paint on 3 cars so far, with pretty good success. A lot of reading here and on AG. Many products tried, but far fewer than others here.
Getting a DA to correct the paint on your cars is fine. I WOULD NOT put a DA to the hood you`re talking about until you know what the issue is. Do you see scratches/swirls? I would get some polish (not compound) and do a test spot by hand. How does it look? Does it shine? If so, how many scratches are left? I would ease into it.
I feel good about the work I`ve done and my cars have never looked better. I`ve gotten past the excited/proud of myself phase and am now scared about what damage I could cause. I don`t have a paint gauge. When I compound a car I have no idea how close I`m coming to going through clear coat into the paint. I don`t want to find out. My next purchase is likely to be a paint gauge, assuming it can tell me clear coat thickness. (Or maybe I have to assume paint thickness and subtract to get remaining CC.) And I believe that some polish by hand is likely safe for anything. I would start there.
If you read enough you`ll read about people damaging their paint unintentionally or going through their clear coat. Don`t be that guy.
Just a PSA-type note- It`s not a matter of going through the clear, but merely taking off too much. The specs for how much (I really oughta say "how little") you can take off before you precipitate failure are pretty scary, and the short-version is "not much at all". Especially with today`s cars that have so little on there to begin with.
When I get a chance I`ll study up on the lastest info bulletin from Ford (big thanks to Ron K), but I haven`t gotten around to it yet. In the past, they said something like "less than 2/3 of a mil" which is a lot less that many people take off without even thinking about it.
Thanks for the info, Accumulator. Another example of me not being a pro, and another example of why I`m now terrified rather than confident and empowered to take a compound to my paint. I think this is appropriate and healthy given the risk.
I`m now looking hard at LSPs (and last stage correction) that may have some filling capability. If I can make it look good without taking off material, that`s my preference.
RippyD- Maybe look into products like Black Hole. I`ve never had great results with "filling" but then I`ve never tried that product and eh...I set the bar awfully high when it comes to things like that.
And I won`t argue with anybody deciding to err on the side of caution. As I like to say (and it`s just IMO), "better imperfect original paint than a need for a repaint". Better to not have to redo areas that have already been repainted too, and repaints are seldom as durable as the oe finish.
SilverVroom- I like applying some LSPs by machine but not all of `em. And I always end up wasting product that way. AND I find it harder to do my Ultra-Thin Application thing, which I consider functionally important (i.e., it`s not just about wasting LSP/$).
I do like buffing off LSPs via machine using MF bonnets, but I always have to give it a final going-over by hand anyhow to get that last 0.5% for some reason and even with my thin applications it can take quite a few MF bonnets to do a big vehicle.
And no matter what, the whole on/off by machine thing won`t work for every part of the vehicle.
I would recommend spending a little more money and starting with the Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher. I have recommended several of these to my friends just getting started in detailing. You can`t go wrong and you don`t have to spend a lot of money. I started with one of these and moved up to the Flex after getting serious about detailing. For basic correction and waxing the Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher is as good as it gets.
Has the PC`s "hollow shaft breakage" thing become a non-issue?
That`s one of the main reasons for my frequent (and pretty much knee-jerk) recommendations to buy something else, and in recongnition that Things Change I don`t want to be unfair about it.
Going to give Carpro Essence a try. Essence primer claims to have some fillers over which you can apply a coating. Essence Plus claims to have some fillers that go over a coating to remove swirls. This sounds like potentially less paint correction in theory. Will see how it goes. I`ll do a test panel once it warms up a little. If I like the look I`ll finish the car with Cquartz UK. When any swirls show up I`ll see what Essense Plus does.
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