Paint correction on Single Stage Paint `86 4Runner. Any advice or thoughts on approach or LSP welcome!

[JustJesus]

Great job on that truck JustJesus- I couldn`t help but laugh when I read this..." Did he clay bar first? Brand of wax? Any special tips or tricks this guy did? Rotation/rotary wax wheel with polishing pad? " .

Thanks man! Oh, that IS funny. I don`t think I had seen that.

Some good info on "restoring" single stage

That was one of his threads I read and eventually put into practice.

I`m with you on how long the #7 takes. FWIW they also make a #3 Glaze that is meant to be applied by machine.

"...All that is about to change with the introduction of Meguiar’s #3 Professional Machine Glaze."

Hmm. If it`s similar, but for machine use, it`s caught MY attention! Thanks

[RaydiantDetail]

Thanks man! Oh, that IS funny. I don`t think I had seen that.




That was one of his threads I read and eventually put into practice.




Hmm. If it`s similar, but for machine use, it`s caught MY attention! Thanks

Thinking about ordering the #3 since there is the 25% off sale on AGO right now

From the description "This is a true polish. It will improve the texture and appearance of your paint, but it will not remove oxidation or swirls. For that you need Meguiar’s #9 Swirl Remover. Follow up with #3 Machine Glazeand then a premium wax."

I am wondering if that is more for a base/ clear type of paint that it would not remove oxidation on since it only has a cut level of 1 and would work for oxidation on single stage super soft pain?. Maybe with a MF finishing pad? Anyway its worth a shot to try it out either way looks like a nice glaze to add to the arsenal.

Thanks for the recommendation Knozzmoeking

[JustJesus]

Huh. It pretty much tells you M3 will *not* remove oxidation, although it`s safe to use on all paint types.

My best guess, it`s not anywhere near aggressive enough. But on soft single stage? Yeah, I wonder.

Keep in mind, Autopia price matches! Even the sales over on the other side.

[RaydiantDetail]

Huh. It pretty much tells you M3 will *not* remove oxidation, although it`s safe to use on all paint types.

My best guess, it`s not anywhere near aggressive enough. But on soft single stage? Yeah, I wonder.

Keep in mind, Autopia price matches! Even the sales over on the other side.

DOH! And my connect is good till December end too! Shoot well Ill have to keep that in mind for next time. I already placed the order over on AGO like 5 min ago.
Still, for everything I ordered I got a good deal but extra 10% off on top would have been better lol.

[JustJesus]

I kick myself in the butt way too much for not getting Connect. It was being done at a time when I wasn`t really buying, so that`s maybe why I didn`t. Who knows.

Yeah, that`s a really, really, crazy sale. Like insanely crazy.

Well, try out that M03 and let us know how it works out

[Kean]

....really like Petes 53....IMO....one of the most underrated waxes out there

yeah... I was looking for something similar to Fuzion (a stupid easy to use WOWO product) without the steep price for my Challenger. Not exactly cheap but the price was tolerable. I probably would say that I still like Fuzion better overall between the two but Pete`s is a close second. I really didn`t want to waste it on the T4R especially using it as a sort of AIO to help remove the oxidation but I needed a fast and easy solution at the time. ....never really got around to using until then.

More recently I used my FK1000P for that purpose on the truck. ....worked quite well.

[Accumulator]

Meguiar`s M03 is functionally nonabrasive in-and-of itself, though the pad might contribute a little cut. Back in the day we added corn starch to it to provide a little cut (don`t try this at home kids, at least not now in the 21st century).

IME it`s utterly useless/worse on b/c but still VG on some single-stage and more user-friendly than M07.

M09 is so minimally abrasive as to do virtually zero actual correction unless used quite aggressively, but it does do some concealing and AFAIK it still contains the same TSO as M07/M03.

So on ss paint, using M09 and then M03 (be gentle with the latter so it doesn`t disturb the residual M09 stuff), and then topping with a low-solvent LSP can be a good, if temporary approach. It`s not what I do on my ss Jag, but that`s just me on that car. Honestly...I haven`t used my M03/M05/M07/M09/M81 for ages.

For oxidation, none of these products strike me as appropriate (and I tried such stuff back in the day when ss oxidation was a regular issue). I`d rather use something with strong chemical cleaners or else just cut through it with something that`s reasonably abrasive. The old M02 used to be great for that on both counts, although it was some pretty harsh stuff...no idea whether they even still make it or whether it still has the same chemical cleaners post VOC-regulations.

[JustJesus]

Thank you, Accumulator, for the additional info. What the heck is this "corn starch" you speak of anyway? hehe., Just messing,

I found M09 to not be enough for what I was using it for, and shelved it. M205 met my needs that day.

QUESTION: do modern b/c paints even oxidize? Or does the clear coat just fail?

[Accumulator]

I found M09 to not be enough for what I was using it for, and shelved it. M205 met my needs that day.

Yeah, that makes sense. I was happier with my M09 when I quit using it as a "swirlmark remover" and started using it as a "glaze". And heh heh...I got into some, uhm...discussions...about how Meguiar`s uses certain words

QUESTION: do modern b/c paints even oxidize? Or does the clear coat just fail?

Yeah, they oxidize, but not as readily as most ss. The oxidized b/c paint on some of my used-vehicle purchases had them looking like there was a milky film on the paint: dark blue looking light gray (`93 Audi) ; silver looking nearly white (Tahoe).

[JustJesus]

Yeah, that makes sense. I was happier with my M09 when I quit using it as a "swirlmark remover" and started using it as a "glaze". And heh heh...I got into some, uhm...discussions...about how Meguiar`s uses certain words

I know what you mean, though I haven`t had similar discussions

Yeah, they oxidize, but not as readily as most ss. The oxidized b/c paint on some of my used-vehicle purchases had them looking like there was a milky film on the paint: dark blue looking light gray (`93 Audi) ; silver looking nearly white (Tahoe).

Thanks for the info. That`s odd about those color changing cars! well, yeah. hehe. I guess upkeep is important, eh

[Kean]

Yeah, they oxidize, but not as readily as most ss. The oxidized b/c paint on some of my used-vehicle purchases had them looking like there was a milky film on the paint: dark blue looking light gray (`93 Audi) ; silver looking nearly white (Tahoe).

....the 90s bring back some bad memories of paint problems during that time.

[Accumulator]

....the 90s bring back some bad memories of paint problems during that time.

In all fairness, the `93 Audi has held up well considering what it went through with the original owner and her "detailer" (scare-quotes intentional..[freakin`] hack killed every panel and it always looked like [crap] when he was done anyhow).

Worse is my `85 Jag`s Rhodium Silver single stage metallic lacquer. So problematic that they discontinued it...mine was (partially) repainted *THREE* different times during manufacture and again at point-of-import (and yeah it shows, always did even when showroom new). The paint continues to fail and nobody will mix a lacquer-based match for it these days, not that I`d know which panel to have them match anyhow.

Sorry about the rant The Jag`s been bugging me for 31 years now, total mess but I *LOVE* how that particular paint looks on that particular car..wouldn`t own it in b/c or even a modern ss like urethane, it`s gotta look JUST SO to be my Wayback Machine.

[Kean]

Yeah, I just remember my black `93 Silverado that developed crows feet regardless of the care I provided it. ....perhaps due in part to some of the changes the manufacturers were going through in paint technology at the time.

[Accumulator]

Yeah, I just remember my black `93 Silverado that developed crows feet regardless of the care I provided it. ....

On my Jag I call that "patina" and say it`s a feature as it speaks to the car`s originality

But yeah, some of GMs early b/c paints were just awful...look at how nasty Buick GNs always are even when stored since new.

[Bill D]

My `89 Cadillac has crows feet on one panel as well. I think it was due to a paint defect that year. It`s been there since the car was at least five years old so I have to dismiss it as patina as well.