What do you reach for first? Getting rid of deeper scratches.

**zannard** · 05-24-2006, 04:47 PM

Alright, I know it all depends on the condition of the scratch or the problem you are dealing with, but IN GENERAL what do you reach for first when dealing with a difficult paint problem or when what you normally use isn`t cutting it? No pun intended.

More aggressive pad or more aggressive product?

Lately, I do great with a cleaner or polish on a polishing pad. Sometimes stepping it up to a megs red pad, but I can`t seem to remove those scratches that I think should come out. You know, the ones that only show when you use halogen lights or direct sunlight. I get sick of the paint looking great under flourescent lights in the garage, you pull it out into the sunlight and BAM, you can still see a lot of scratches. The swirls are gone, most light scracthes but not the deeper scratches.

Just attempting to improve my skills. Any suggestions would be great.

Oh yeah, I use mostly a PC, and still learning the rotary.

**Beemerboy** · 05-24-2006, 04:54 PM

If I`m working on a real bad swirled car...I get the rotary out, green Edge cutting pad and SSR 2.5 that`s only when I have determined that its going to need some real cutting...I then follow that with a same machine blue Edge pad and SSR1...always seems to work for me

If there are real deep scratches that don`t come out from there...I`m inclined to leave them alone or work a bit better with the SSR2.5....I have wet sanded some but its really allot of work and in most cases I don`t really see a marked improvement...I guess you need to know your limits

**WuNgUn** · 05-24-2006, 05:13 PM

I`m experiencing the same difficulties as zannard...
Paint looks great...until the direct sunlight hits it. I`ve ran over the finish with an orange 7.5" LC pad with SSR2, but this combo isn`t `cutting it`, as they say...
I`m ordering SSR2.5 this week, and trying `er again...

**Beemerboy** · 05-24-2006, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by WuNgUn

I`m experiencing the same difficulties as zannard...
Paint looks great...until the direct sunlight hits it. I`ve ran over the finish with an orange 7.5" LC pad with SSR2, but this combo isn`t `cutting it`, as they say...
I`m ordering SSR2.5 this week, and trying `er again...

There has been many threads about this but for removal of swirls a rotary is about the best solution...if you are using a PC then a cutting pad and SRR2.5 on high....I would work the area real well and work in small panels like areas...wait for the product to get hot and almost disappear...This should remove most but I really have never been able to get all swirls out with a PC, and for that matter with a rotary you can`t get them all out but a good 90% plus....IMO

**WuNgUn** · 05-24-2006, 06:03 PM

What about SSR3? I`ve never seen it discussed here before, only 2.5 and 1.
I already have SSR2 and 1, so maybe I might have better success with a SSR3 with a cutting pad, then, 2 then SSR1 on finishing pads?

**tguil** · 05-24-2006, 09:40 PM

With a pc, Meguiars burgandy pad and Meguiars #83.

Tom

**joyriide1113** · 05-24-2006, 10:04 PM

The deep deep stuff always gets DACP #83 via rotory.

**zannard** · 05-25-2006, 02:50 AM

yeah, I use #83 most of the time. Guess I am going to have to keep improving on my rotary skills to get the results I truly want. I learned how to use the rotary on a old car hood. Burned the paint turned it on its side, ect ect. I don`t think the rotary is as horrible as people make it out to be, but I obviously still have alot to learn since I can`t get those stubborn/deep scratches out.

What I don`t get is, I know pictures don`t show everything, but it seems like on this website most of the detailers get all the scratches out of cars in comparible condition to what I normally work on. I certainly must not being doing something correct because using a PC, cutting pad, and #83 never cuts it on some scratches.
I have reached for more abrasive products than #83 from time to time while using the rotary, but then spend even more time repairing the induced swirls. Would like to learn to fix it in a couple shots.

Also, with more work comes more time, not sure how people here get the results they get in the time they advertise? Again, maybe more practice and knowledge of what works on what defects?

Maybe my expectation of what can actually be accomplished are too high? And my expectations exceed my capabilities?

ok, I`m done foaming at the mouth.

**Big Leegr** · 05-25-2006, 05:13 AM

Well, one possibility for getting the car done quicker is to work on 1 section only until you find the combination that works. If you go, for example, with SSR2 and a polishing pad over the whole car, then check it and see that it didn`t work, you`ve "wasted" the time it took for you to polish the car, as you`ll be going over it again with a different combo. If you work 1 section only, you spend only the time it takes to do that section.
SSR3 is pretty gritty stuff. I don`t think it`s mentioned too much because most people don`t go to that "extreme." If you are experienced enough, it can work well on deeper marring, but if you aren`t experienced, you can inflict more marring quickly. Many people don`t work a polish/compound long enough. This leads to marring being left behind. This leads to frustrated people. With SSR3, you would get very noticeable marring if you stopped too soon.
As to the "pad vs polish" question, I would go with a more aggressive polish before a more aggressive pad, as, if your polish has diminishing abrasives, they will break down and help to polish the paint (thus removing some of the marring inflicted by the polish), making the next step easier (less marring to remove via this step). If you go to a more aggressive pad, you will not get less marring than the pad inflicts regardless of which polish you use, since the pad agressiveness does not diminish.

As to your expectations etc., if it`s a daily driver, I wouldn`t push for "perfect" as it will be exposed to the elements, parking lot dings, etc. It sounds like your car looks better than most on the road. Unless you are entering a competition, most people wouldn`t even notice a light scratch here or there, or would just accept it as "normal" for a DD. Maybe look for a good glaze?

Just my 2¢.

**lonewolf0420** · 05-25-2006, 07:50 AM

I do believe SSR2.5 is the highest Poorboy`s recommends for a PC. SSR3 is more for use with a Rotary. Correct me if I`m wrong.

**zannard** · 05-25-2006, 10:54 AM

Originally Posted by Big Leegr

Many people don`t work a polish/compound long enough. This leads to marring being left behind. This leads to frustrated people. With SSR3, you would get very noticeable marring if you stopped too soon.
As to the "pad vs polish" question, I would go with a more aggressive polish before a more aggressive pad, as, if your polish has diminishing abrasives, they will break down and help to polish the paint (thus removing some of the marring inflicted by the polish), making the next step easier (less marring to remove via this step). If you go to a more aggressive pad, you will not get less marring than the pad inflicts regardless of which polish you use, since the pad agressiveness does not diminish.

Thanks for the info, the point of working the product in is something I have definetly been working on. Must use the products the way they are designed or it is pointless. Guess that is where experience comes in. Trial and error.

Thanks again. I`ll keep trying.