Thanks for the info Todd!
So long as the solution hasn`t hardened to a resin then it should be good to use right? Do you have a picture that shows us how it should look like when the resin is beginning to harden? Also, so long as you fully screw in the black cap then the syringe is completely sealed off from the air outside?
So when you transfer OC2.0 to a spray bottle, put the unused portion in a cup to be sucked back into the syringe, won`t the solution have already reacted with air?
2011 SEMA Meguiar`s Car Crazy Showcase Team
Great write up Todd!
I`ve for Eraser to be my go to wipe-down product as well. I also agree with Troy on the CarPro block wrapped with the suede MF towel for application...for most surfaces anyway. Plastic trim, wheels, and door jambs seem to work best with the supplied foam.
I feel it gives the paint a "glassy" look.
I`ve only used the 2.0 on one car, but with Opti-Guard, on a warmer days I`d say you have less than a minute to knock down high spots...IME at least. I`ll likely be using the 2.0 this weekend with temps in the 90`s.
Rasky
How long after Dr Colorchip application can OC2.0 be used? Also, can Dr. Colorchip be used sometime after OC2.0 is applied?
Optimum Coatings are very reactive so the syringe is the perfect "storage" solution. However, you can certainly transfer the coating to another device for application. The resin will harden in the sprayer if not returned to the syringe and will likely clog the nozzle if not removed before drying. Regarding reactivty, Optimum Coatings will polymerize in the presence of moisture...not air, but the moisture in the air. So you can leave it in a container for a week or so if it`s small and sealed. We do recommend transfering it back to the syringe for storage.
Yes, I`m testing it now and it works well. It even seems to make the coating more reactive and it flashes a little faster in its concentrated version. I like this because I started out with the pro version and didn`t care for how long the consumer version took to flash. It will most likely be dilutable up to 3:1 so you can tune it to your application.
Thanks for the info Chris!!
So, when the coating is out, let`s just say it starts the hardening process and it ends at around 3-5% before you transfer it back to the syringe. Since the polymerization already started, will it continue even if there`s no moisture present? Or will it stop since there`s no moisture?
As for the air bubble inside the syringe, will this start the hardening? I know that you need to remove as much air as possible but I don`t think you can remove it completely. Will it, over time, harden the OC inside the syringe?
Do you have a picture of a coating inside the syringe that started to harden? So we know what to look out for?
What`s an indication that the product has gone bad?
2011 SEMA Meguiar`s Car Crazy Showcase Team
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvj80cB2HLc]Opti-Coat 2.0 Application - YouTube[/ame]
New video added at the end of the first post
Thanks a lot Todd, this will be of much help when I start using the Opticoat.
If you have left over product that you`ve transfered into a bottle for application and you do not intend to use it in a few days, you should not wait a few days to transfer it back into the syringe...do that as soon as possible.
After returning a portion back into the syringe, you may need to check for the next few days to make sure there is not air forming inside. When exposed to the moisture in air (varies in climate and seasons) the product will give of gas as it polymerizes. If this happens in inside the syringe, the plunger will expand as a result. If the air is not released and the moisture content is high enough, the plunger can be forced out of the end and the product may be lost.
There won`t be enough activity to make the product go bad or start to harden in the syringe, just watch to make sure the air doesn`t expand..and just let it out if it does. You will only have to watch it for a couple of days after the transfer...any moisture should be neutralized by then.
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