New/second post/windshield so far, but need to do more for perfection

[JJZ4MR]

So, first off I`m really liking this OPEN style forum. Stepping up my game, starting " new " detailing biz, even though I`ve been professionally detailing on the side, since 1980. I`ve been gaining high end clients and going that route with official new biz.

Windshield. It`s my DD, 2010 Honda Insight Hybrid with 83K miles. Glass has years of hard water spots. My general upkeep has been, wash/Stoner Invisiglass/Rain X/wet microfiber wipe down. I`ve been happy. Recently stumbled out the detailing stone age, going to drop around $ 2000 on upgrades in tools/equipment to further enhance my abilities.

Here`s what I`ve done this week. Stocked up on many gallons of distilled water. Used distilled white vinegar 3:1 with DW. Terry cloth scrub...noticeable improvement, not good enough....next...cleaned, clayed with Simoniz blue bar/Black Magik QD for lube, MF wipe down, Stoner glass cleaner.....Actually thought I had looking beautiful, before glass cleaner, but after cleaner I could see the spots. I have more than just the spots, I have wiper marks. No scratching, I always clean my blades/change them often, and use some cleaner and RainX on them. It`s more you can see the travel of the blades on the glass when wet, especially as I leave for work in the early AM. ( I own my own mobile personal training biz )

I don`t yet have a DA. I want to polish the glass. Or perhaps as I`ve read, use 0000 synthetic steel wool, with some type of glass specific polish OR a chemical that removes hard water stains. Looking for some technique and product advice. I did see a highly rated hydrophobic called Aquapel, any input ? Razor scraping ? Seems like it could scratch but Larry from Ammo used lube. Kaboom cleaner ? Seems dangerous around trim. Would Magic Eraser or Car Pro Eraser do any good ? ScotchBright pads seem to work for some.

Thank you in advance, JJ

[Civicclutch]

I like using carpros ceriglass and their rayon pads


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[JJZ4MR]

So I just finished my AM workout. Relatively cool at 7:30 AM here in FL at 73*. Real humid and dewy which makes the marks really stand out. Tested some wiper travel marks ( clear and defined line, which is good to stare at ) I`ve always believed in the phrase " least aggressive first " so in my continuation of that....Mr Clean Magic Eraser/Scotch Brite/0000 steel wool. Invisiglass as lube for all. ME actually made a difference, with way too much effort. SB helped, but not as good. 0000 SW, good, I did remove some of the lower level water spotting, but for the 1/2 hour I just polished the glass with the SW, heavy pressure, frenzied movements, spending more time on travel lines/marks....still can see them as I pass over with slightly damp MF. As everything dried, it does look sparkling clean.

I checked my paint polishes/lense/plastic polishes/even metal polishes, none mention being safe for glass. I guess cerium oxide powder ( $20 for an 8 oz bag/High Grade at Walmart ) may be my next step. Still need to look into various hard water stain remover made for detailing. Some CLR I was thinking may work also.

[Civicclutch]

I`m serious pick up some ceriglass and a rayon pad for a da as well as a small da and you will save time and get it done right


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[Civicclutch]

And it`s sold right here at autopia


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[JJZ4MR]

In my opening post I stated not owning a DA...YET...I`m leaning heavily on GG6 and getting 3" HD backing plate. I do want a dedicated 3" DA for tight spots/headlight lense restore. So is the ceriglass and rayon pad something that attaches to the DA ? or can it be hand polished ? I will be adding that to my research list...which is getting pretty long. My Master Buy List is TOO LONG. My funding and wanting are getting farther and farther apart, so I need to stick with the necessary with an emphasis on versatility ( like just starting with ONE DA and 2 sizes of backing plates ) Seriously how long does it take to change a backing plate ?

Can you even reach the corners/edges of the windshield with a rayon pad ?

Edit, OK just added 5oz/5"/3" to my bag. Do I need the block to get the edges ? If so I`ll buy the kit...Ohhh and it comes with a MF...Sarcasm

[Civicclutch]

I`ve never really worried much about corners if they seriously needed it that bad in corners I used the edge of pad by hand to do corners. Also make sure to tape off the rubber seals around windshield and do before Wash to wash off the splatter. And don`t let it get to dry or hot


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[JJZ4MR]

OK, well AGAIN, NO DA, but I want it perfect NOW. So use the Ceriglass all with elbow grease ? I do appreciate it, just was hoping there was a technique I could try in the AM, I`ve used up my arsenal. I will say, after the 0000 Steel Wool, the glass is noticeably brighter. I did read up on the Ceriglass, sounds like a great product.

[Civicclutch]

I think I`ve seen a kit somewhere with a hand help pad but wasn`t autopia so not sure if I can post


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[JJZ4MR]

So 3rd AM session of achieving a perfectly clear windshield. I`m just "experimenting" with my DD. I put a 1/2 oz of THE WORKS bathroom cleaner in the center of an old MF. Layered some paper towel at the base trim ( cowl ) for protection. Product says " removes scale/lime/rust/hard water buildup....Wiped it onto my dewy glass....crystal clear...no hard water marks, no wiper travel marks...Perfect ! I did then clean everything off multiple times with glass cleaner. BAM ! $ 3 product from Family Dollar solved my problem. I`m sure the claying and vigorous 0000 steel wool polishing helped as well. My glass is now perfect, will top it off with Rain X, which I love. I have read that people don`t like Rain X because of the streaky swirly effects after using. A wet MF wipe down solves this completely. Now of course I will be using distilled water for glass.

[JJZ4MR]

Just as an update : I`ve come to the conclusion that using The Works is too harsh a chemical to be using. I experimented with different dilution rates, but just decreased it`s effectiveness. Kept searching for options on line. CP Ceriglass is on my BUY LIST. But, saw a lot about Bar Keepers Friend online. Went to Bed Bath Beyond. Bought Soft Cleanser and Spray Foam. I have to say...AMAZING ! ....I`ve been experimenting on multiple windows on my and GF cars. I`ve come to the conclusion that 1) going over with medium clay and QD 2) palm sized 0000 Steel Wool with Foam BKF is really quick and really effective, for a very low cost. I also have purchased from Amazon Cerium Oxide $ 12 for 8 oz. I`m going to use my 3M headlight restoration 3 inch backing plate w/ polishing pad to try and really make the glass sparkle. This step in not needed, I`m just having fun trying different techniques. Hope this helps someone looking for a cheap quick alternative. Going to order Aquapel glass treatment for the finish step, as I now think it is superior to RainX, though more expensive.

[Civicclutch]

I`ve used the mckeeys glass coating on a lot of windshields and I still have quite a bit in the 4oz bottle I bought and it is far superior to rainx and aquapel. And it lasts bout 6-8 months


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[rlmccarty2000]

I agree a coating like the McKees Glass Coating is superior to Rain-x or Aquapel. Now that your windshield is perfectly clean it`s a great time to install a coating.

[Accumulator]

Sounds like I might oughta consider that McKee`s Glass Coating for the Crown Vic if/when I use up my RainX. Just *so* many choices for some stuff these days!

[Civicclutch]

Sounds like I might oughta consider that McKee`s Glass Coating for the Crown Vic if/when I use up my RainX. Just *so* many choices for some stuff these days!

Pitch the rain-x and save the constant hassle by getting the glass coating


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