New Paint!

[Accumulator]

I`ll let it sit a week and then I`ll try some NXT on it followed up with some S100, I`m hoping that will take care of the mild holograms.

I`d do it differently. Rather than hide the holograms with products that might (more like "will") interfere with outgassing, I`d just polish out the holograms with an abrasive polish and use something fresh-paint-safe on the new paint. Four weeks has never been long enough for my repaints, and that`s with baking, hot weather, etc. etc. Four weeks is about when the paint acts "normally hard" with regard to polishing but I often even smell the outgassing (meaning there`s a lot of it going on) for a month or more after that.



I know, I`m a broken record on this "let the paint cure" business But it`s nice for all the paint on the vehicle to be the way it oughta be, hardness-wise. It`s a little detail, but it still matters to me- no big surprises or need for different approaches for different panels.

[djerickd]

Ok I`ll just do that and be safe. I want this finish to last! So meg`s #5 eh? Does this stuff work good by hand? I don`t have a PC orbital yet...

[djerickd]

I found this on another post for reference:

The below Meguiar’s polishes are wax and silicone free, and will not seal the surface of your fresh paint. This means the paint can continue to properly cure throughout the recommended curing period.



M-03 Machine Glaze

M-05 New Car Glaze

M-07 Show Car Glaze

M-09 Swirl Remover

M-80 Speed Glaze

M-82 Swirl Free Polish

M-81 Hand Polish

A-21 Deep Crystal Polish

Accumulator, I see you reccomended #80 in another fresh paint post, whats the difference between #5 and #80?

[Accumulator]

Accumulator, I see you reccomended #80 in another fresh paint post, whats the difference between #5 and #80?

The #80 contains abrasives and the #5 does not. Same with the #82 and the #9.

Otherwise, see the PM I sent for more ideas.

[djerickd]

I`m thinking the #80 followed by the #5 wil do the trick the holograms aren`t too crazy.

[Horseman2475]

I called Megs and the person I talked to advised me to use #5 on fresh paint. I found it very easy to put on and take off.

[djerickd]

thank you! I think I`m gonna pick some up

[djerickd]

Well I ended up picking up some Meg`s Deep Crystal #2 and did the car, I don`t see any holograms but are they really there just covered up? As I understand it this polish just fills them in vs. actually removing them... Looks good tho! Can wait to hit it with some NXT topped with S100 :waxing:

[MorBid]

I`m in agreement with Accumlator



I just finished painting some parts on my Audi (I use the same tools and procedures as a body shop - minus the paint booth, sadly) and used a top end Clear Coat from Dupont.



The P-Sheet for this Clear says not to wax for 120 days this is whether the finish was baked, IR Cured, or air dried.



Bottom line is if you want to find out how long till you can wax any newly painted car is to asked the shop what Clear they used and who made it and go to that company`s website and pull the P-Sheet.

[Accumulator]

Well I ended up picking up some Meg`s Deep Crystal #2 and did the car, I don`t see any holograms but are they really there just covered up? As I understand it this polish just fills them in vs. actually removing them...

Yeah, they`re still there but they`re hidden by the DC#2 (I gotta remember that A21 designation). No point buying the #5 now that you have the DC#2, so just get something with abrasives in it to remove the holograms permanently. You might want to do thate before the paint finishes curing so it`ll cut a little easier, but I often wait unless they really look awful.

[djerickd]

it`s not bad at all, they were minor in my eyes... I see cars eveyday with worse! Now the car is almost perfect, except for the right rear quarter panel that I guess the body shop TOTALLY missed with the wet sanding and buffing. It looks like a silver orange skin... arrgh. I may have to break down and get a Porter Cable buffer and wet sand and polish that spot myself. Sooo aggrivating.

[Horseman2475]

I called F1 and they told me I could use 2180 on fresh paint. What do you guys think?

[imported_Reflections]

I took a look at my paint the otherday and I saw a TON of swirls going from the front to the back of the car. All I`ve done since the car has been painted was wash it using NXT car wash using a soft wash mitt and drying using my absorber chamois, AM I DOING SOMETHING WRONG to cause all these light scratches? You can only see them in the right light they are so fine, but they are all over.

Accumulator has a lot more experience than I do, but in MY humble opinion, I bet the body shop polished it with a heavy glaze and now it`s worn off. I see this a lot on friend`s cars that come from the dealership. I rarely give any body shop or dealership enough credit to do proper paint correction instead of hiding (or creating) problems. A photo of the swirls would help though.

[djerickd]

I *think* the product they used was 3M Perfect-it or Finesse-it. Does that sound about right after wet sanding is perfomed? I`m thinking now, I should get some thing like this or a Meg`s equivalent and wet sand the peel myself with some 200 grit, does that sound about right?



Thanks for everyones help!!

[Accumulator]

I called F1 and they told me I could use 2180 on fresh paint. What do you guys think?

I`m not familiar with the 2180,is it a sealant? I`ve never received a good explanation of how a sealant can permit outgassing so I just stick with the glazes. The logic behind such claims eludes me and IMHO that`s always a pretty good clue as it`s not like I can`t follow the reasoning behind this stuff



Remember to take anything a vendor tells you with a grain of salt...it`s not *their* paint that might not attain maximum hardness