What am I looking for

[tzw]

First off I am a total newb to polishing gel coat



What I`ve got right now:



2001 Maxum 2500scr needing some work. There is a small amount of chalk on the gunwhales, the rest of gel coat is ok. After doing some reading it sounds like I need to start with a wool pad and some heavy compound. I`ve got a Dewalt dwp849x on the way, I have not ordered any compound or pads yet.



This might be a dumb question but if I start on the gunwhales with wool and heavy compound... how do I know when I`m done? I mean what sort of finish should I be looking to achieve before I move on to the next step. Should I be looking for any reflection at all from a heavy cut or just a smooth clean surface?



Other than the gunwhales there is some reflection in the gel coat. Should I only hit the areas with no reflection with the heavy cut?



I guess I`m asking how do you guys gauge where you start and when do you decide to move to a finer compound.

[First Coast]

tzw, You really only need to use a heavy compound if there is a lot of oxidation or chalk on the surface of the gelcoat. The gunwhales or gunnels are usually neglected on many boats, so this isn`t surprising that they`re in bad shape, compared to to the rest.



As far as the compounding step, you are just removing the oxidation. You are ready for polish when the compounding step has made the surface glossy again, it will be reflective. It should also be very slick to the touch, and it should have an even consistent look while viewing it at an angle. As for touch, think dry erase board vs chalk board. Sometimes if you finish prematurely, you can see some hazy or slightly foggy looking patches in an otherwise shiny area of gelcoat. The patchy areas may benefit from further compounding. The Polishing step will remove any compounding haze from the wool pad and compound much like on an car`s paint.



If you have other areas that are more reflective ,try going straight to the polishing step. Do a test spot on both the badly oxidized areas and the less oxidized areas to see what it takes to achieve your intended results.



A perfect example of the variables involved is Hatchman`s boat a couple threads down from this one. He got those results by hand and DA. It takes practice and trial and error. The good news is, with gelcoat, you have some room for error unlike paint. Always use the less aggressive process to get the results you want. This is important for your boat, and it will save you time. Why polish out compounding swirls if you didn`t need to put them on the surface. You`ll be surprised what a polish and a wool pad can do on a rotary.

[Ron Ketcham]

Agree with all the basics, but for one.

First wash the oxidized areas with a strong water based cleaner.

Plain old laundry detergent can do the job, just keep it wet with the solution for a few minutes, agitating with a mitt or soft brush while it dwells.

This will break off a large portion of the oxidation, after all it is just gel-coat that the UV`s have broken down the resin that holds it together.

It can be removed with the buffing process, however using the "wash first" with a strong detergent will reduce the amount of time and effort of buffing and provide less of that "dull spots" one sees when they first do the buffing.

Saves a lot of time and will not damage the gel-coat.

Grumpy

[tzw]

Thanks guys, I think I`ve got a better idea on where to start and what other products to order.



Its not quite detailing season here in central illinois. I`ll start posting some before pics hopefully in another 2 or 3 weeks.

[Ron Ketcham]

I am just over the border in Iowa, Keokuk.

Not sure where you are, however if not to far away, may be able to give you some hands on with it.

I get over to Peoria a couple times a year.

Check out my two boat club`s websites, Keokuk Yacht Club and South Side Boat Club, both in Keokuk.

Grumpy