rubbing compound/polish compound breaking down noob question

**vick-e** · 02-09-2005, 02:06 AM

im learning to use my pc...so far i think i have done a great job on my moms fenders...ill get some before and after pics poster asap...(i do not know how to take pics correctly...cant seem to take pics with swirls in it).

well anywho...how do i know when the compound is breaking down??? the only way i know how to is

1) stop the pc

2) wipe off the layer of compound and see if the colour is really shiny and reflective

3) if its not i keep on polishing untill it is.

another question i have is that when the product becomes dusty on...does that mean its dried up and i should clean it off the car and add more product on to my pad?

im using A LOT of polish, my mom has a lot of swirls and weird hazed marks i had to take out.

this leads to my next question, i read that i should do a small section at a time. when i am finished with that section, do i put more product on the the pad and continue on another section?

I LOVE MY PC!!! SO MUCH EASIER TO USE COMPARED TO A POWER DRILL WITH A WOOL BONNET. haha i dono if anyone does that but thats what my uncle did when he first got his car...worked great too but its hard on my hands.

**JeffM** · 02-09-2005, 06:24 AM

Yes, buff off the section and use more polish on the pad for the next section.

I use an "X" of product on the pad, or a circle around the outter rim of the pad. Thats about the right amount of product for a 2x2 aea.

It depends on what polish you are using, is it buffing off easily the way you are doing it?

I generally stop the polish once i see, or just before, the dusting.

**vick-e** · 02-09-2005, 01:48 PM

i thought an X would be too much so all i do for a 2x2 section is put 4-6 dabs around the outer edge and then i would rub it on the the area and it seems to be enough to take out most of the swirls and scratches. But it still takes a long time to dust.

Its VERY easy to buff off the product. I just wipe it off with a dry cloth.

When it starts to dust, the pad is stil wet so i tried going on to another small section 1x1 and it still worked great. Could that become a problem? Or should i even be doing that?

**Bill D** · 02-09-2005, 01:53 PM

Originally posted by vick-e

I LOVE MY PC!!! SO MUCH EASIER TO USE COMPARED TO A POWER DRILL WITH A WOOL BONNET. haha i dono if anyone does that but thats what my uncle did when he first got his car...worked great too but its hard on my hands.

A wool bonnet on a new car? :scared I` m glad you got your PC :up

**Accumulator** · 02-09-2005, 02:04 PM

Originally posted by vick-e

When it starts to dust, the pad is stil wet so i tried going on to another small section 1x1 and it still worked great. Could that become a problem? Or should i even be doing that?

Shouldn`t be a problem and note that you thought it worked great (heh heh, that`s a clue

). And note that when you went on to work the second area, you probably had a lot less polish on the pad. But note that the product was quite possibly already somewhat broken down by then too.

I`d generally suggest that you use the least product necessary to do the job.

FWIW, I dunno which product you`re usinig, but I don`t think I ever work mine until they dust, at least not on a regular basis.

It`s kinda hard to describe when some products have broken down. Experience is the best teacher but I realize that sounds like some goofy zen/Yoda-type of answer and isn`t much help. Products that change color (such as Meg`s #80) are easy to use in this regard. But I find that my 3M and 1Z polishes don`t need to be worked until they`re completely dry.

**Glossequation** · 02-09-2005, 03:19 PM

Originally posted by vick-e

well anywho...how do i know when the compound is breaking down???

Yes, the PC is a great tool and I look forward to using it everytime because I know I am going to accomplish true paint correction.

As far as breaking down, its something I have learned to recognize with practice - try to stick with the same products so you can learn their behavior. I apply an "X" pattern of polish about half the diameter of the pad, then apply at 3 to spread it. I then bump it to 5 and quickly it flashes (semi-hazes) but it still somewhat moist - this is when I really go to town and do the up and down, back and forth diagonal. The product begins to dissapear or become less noticeable on the paint. At this point, I can actually start the initial product removal with zero pressure on the PC - the pad begins to naturally pick up some product. By the time I pull out the MF, I have very little to wipe off. If I go anymore than the "less noticeable" stage (again, a judgement call with practice), I`ll start "drying" the product on and it becomes a bit*ch to remove. At least this is what I have found with 3M Polishes. Hope this helps.

**vick-e** · 02-10-2005, 03:08 AM

ahh ok ok thanks guys for all the info

well im using a 3m rubbing compound from walmart, 3m people...dont really know what they talking about i think...i emailed them twice and one person told me its perfect series other says finese.

another questions maybe one of you can answer is...what should i use to get ride of the final swirl marks made by the machine?

i see like one or 2 and they bug me, should i just use a swirl remover?

**Mochamanz1** · 02-19-2005, 12:56 AM

you can use a 50/50 isopropyl alcholol solution misted onto the pad or surface to extend your polish "work time" and break the polish down much finer, and in doing so, achieve a smoother, more reflective finish. Start using the alcohol/water mist when your polish starts dusting. This is better done in the final stages of polishing, of course. No use doing this in an aggressive stage of the process..

**Accumulator** · 02-19-2005, 11:51 AM

vick-e- When moving on to the next section, note that if you *don`t* add fresh product, the product you`re using (still on the pad from the last section) might be well broken down and thus milder than usual. I like to start a "fresh area" with "fresh product".

The micromarring left by the RC is normal. Follow up with a milder product. I follow 3M RC with 3M PI-III MG (05937). You could also use Meguiar`s #80 if you can get it easier.

**Alfisti** · 02-19-2005, 01:52 PM

vick-e, here`s a great tutorial David B wrote with helpful pics about the PC and polishes:

http://autopia.org/kb/index.php?page...2&id=38&c=root

Heaps more tutorials/info at the `Learn` button at the top of this page. :up

**vick-e** · 02-19-2005, 02:50 PM

ahh thanks for so much new information. i htought the thread was dead by now =p

ya i read through the learning stuff couple times already =) very good information there!!

thanks a lot guys!

i have one more Q. isnt alchol bad for the paint??

**Accumulator** · 02-19-2005, 03:13 PM

Originally posted by vick-e

i have one more Q. isnt alchol bad for the paint??

While any astringent solvent probably isn`t exactly "good" for the paint, it won`t hurt anything. Auto paint is tough and alcohol is mild. Just not a real issue...but FWIW, I never need any alcohol mix when I polish.