Page 3 of 19 FirstFirst 1234567891011121314151617 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 271

Thread: Rotary Usage

  1. #31

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    369
    Post Thanks / Like
    I only say clear is tough because I started to learn high speed with wool pads and a product called tru grit while I detailed for an International Limo company to the stars. The cars were constantly beat and needed lots of work. So when I say clear is tough it`s just from my own experiences or fortune, if you must.

    Truthfully, I`ve NEVER burned a car. Not even once.

  2. #32

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    7
    Post Thanks / Like
    Originally posted by Ryan

    I

    Truthfully, I`ve NEVER burned a car. Not even once.


    I wish I could say the same but I can`t. I burned a fender on a f-150 we called it even for the detail $200 and I found out later the guy didnt even pay for the new paint.
    Easy money this detailing stuff

  3. #33

    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    western NC
    Posts
    362
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ive use Tru grit made by Malco. Pretty abrasive stuff.

  4. #34

    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    western NC
    Posts
    362
    Post Thanks / Like
    ANYONE who has detailed for a while, WILL one time or another burn paint. Stuff happens. Sometimes its the products,pads, procedure etc. Sometimes the paint is not cured. Sometimes, you slip on something. Its going to happen. Its always best to be honest and show the customer. It pays to be honest. I detailed a 69 chevy truck, red with yellow scallops, purple pearl, and noticed a HUGE chip in the lower tailgate. I was sure I bumped into it, or something, so I pointed it out to my client when he came to pick it up, with my insurance agents number. He was boiling mad.... then he said gotcha! I did that trying to hook my trailer for my Harley up, when I was drunk! Whew! I was soooooooo happy I didnt do it. Jason:bounce

  5. #35

    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    225
    Post Thanks / Like
    Would anyone know how RPM/OPM come into play. How safe or high high of an OPM can I go without damaging paint.



    It seems like alot of people run the PC at around 5 or 6 which is close to 6000 Orbits per minute. I happen to have a Buffer that I will want to try. It`s actually a random orbit sander that convert with a 6" H&L Pad.



    The OPM rating for that unit is 4,000 up to 11,200 OPM. How high of an OPM can I go till it`s considered safe. I`m sure alot also has to do with whoever is opearting the machine also...

  6. #36

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    369
    Post Thanks / Like
    I think an orbital like a pc or cyclo can be used with no worry of burning a paint. It creates less heat unlike the rotary.

  7. #37

    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    225
    Post Thanks / Like
    I guess the question I`m trying to ask is ...how high of OPM (orbits per minute) can I go without damaging my paint. Since it`s making random orbits, there is a whole lot less heat than RPM (revolutions per minute) as pad is doing straight rotations without any eccentric movement to it.



    The cyclo goes up to 3,200 OPM and the PC goes up to 6,000 OPM. My unit goes up to 11,200 OPM. Alot of PC users run their PC at setting 6, which is at the max (6000 OPM). Can it be safe to say if I was to run this at (8000 OPM), it will not damage my paint ?

  8. #38

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,155
    Post Thanks / Like
    Played around with my Makita yesterday...



    Not bad at all for a "quickie" buff...



    http://www.pbase.com/theveed/accidental_rotary

  9. #39

    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Posts
    18
    Post Thanks / Like
    Does anyone have pictures of burned paint. I`ve been using a rotary for about two yrs or so and haven`t burned any paint yet. But as Bumpers + said, its going to happen sooner or later. I`m self-taught, so I`d be curious to actually see burned paint from somewhere.



    Later,

    B.

  10. #40

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    279
    Post Thanks / Like
    Originally posted by jsoto

    I guess the question I`m trying to ask is ...how high of OPM (orbits per minute) can I go without damaging my paint. Since it`s making random orbits, there is a whole lot less heat than RPM (revolutions per minute) as pad is doing straight rotations without any eccentric movement to it.



    The cyclo goes up to 3,200 OPM and the PC goes up to 6,000 OPM. My unit goes up to 11,200 OPM. Alot of PC users run their PC at setting 6, which is at the max (6000 OPM). Can it be safe to say if I was to run this at (8000 OPM), it will not damage my paint ?


    This thread is on direct drive rotary polishing, not random orbital buffing. To burn through paint with a PC you really have to try hard.

  11. #41

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,155
    Post Thanks / Like
    Originally posted by Brakedust

    Does anyone have pictures of burned paint. I`ve been using a rotary for about two yrs or so and haven`t burned any paint yet. But as Bumpers + said, its going to happen sooner or later. I`m self-taught, so I`d be curious to actually see burned paint from somewhere.



    Later,

    B.


    I`ll post one tomorrow... it`s not my fault actually, when I got the car, it had a couple of burnt spots... I`ll try to take a pic of it tonight...

  12. #42

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,155
    Post Thanks / Like
    here it is... the burn mark on my hood... don`t know when it happened but it was there when I got the car... send me a PM with your email if you want a much larger pic...

  13. #43
    2wheelsx2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
    Posts
    2,246
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the pic, David. So in that spot, is the clean coat all gone? It`s kind of difficult to see, even in the larger pic. Do you see a different colour? Is the paint "rougher"? Do you have to treat that area differently than other areas of the car?

  14. #44

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    7
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the pic, David. So in that spot, is the clean coat all gone? It`s kind of difficult to see, even in the larger pic. Do you see a different colour? Is the paint "rougher"? Do you have to treat that area differently than other areas of the car?


    When the clear has been burned or worn away from time you will deginatetly see the difference. You can shine it up but it will always be noticable. Go ahead and treat it the same. ie. wash and wax.
    Easy money this detailing stuff

  15. #45

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,155
    Post Thanks / Like
    The colour is definitely different, kinda like a waxed/hazed area. It`s like a "halo" around that area...



    The clear is gone (i believe) but the texture is smooth, just like the rest of the paint...

 

 
Page 3 of 19 FirstFirst 1234567891011121314151617 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. FLEX rotary usage...
    By Flatfour in forum Machine Polishing & Sanding
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-11-2005, 02:48 PM
  2. Rotary Usage
    By Nickshades in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-01-2004, 04:36 PM
  3. woo-hoo! Rotary usage
    By scottabir in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-29-2004, 03:52 PM
  4. (rotary usage) pad flat or not ?
    By chip douglas in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-09-2003, 07:10 PM
  5. rotary usage --> pad flat or not ?
    By chip douglas in forum Auto Detailing 101
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-09-2003, 09:17 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •