Page 2 of 19 FirstFirst 12345678910111213141516 ... LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 271

Thread: Rotary Usage

  1. #16

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,155
    Post Thanks / Like
    so the lack of product is my main reason of residue? i`ll give it a shot...

  2. #17

    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Cincinnati, OH
    Posts
    659
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yes it could be, try using more product and see it may help.



    Laters.
    Andre`

  3. #18

    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    DDO (Montreal), Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    1,030
    Post Thanks / Like
    DavidB wrote a great article about using machines for buffing and polishing. There is a whole section on using a rotary. It`s in Detailing Articles and Tips:

    Machine Buffing
    Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest.

    --Mark Twain

  4. #19

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,155
    Post Thanks / Like
    I`ve read that already... needed more info... thanks.

  5. #20

    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    1,586
    Post Thanks / Like
    I would practice as much as possible. Be very careful before you use the rotary for real. Everyone makes mistakes and it is very easy to burn the paint on the car.

    Like showroom said, slower is best and work the speed up, i never go past speed 3.

    good luck

  6. #21

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    7
    Post Thanks / Like
    Here is a car with pretty bad swirls. I used a yellow pad and very low rpm`s. If you hold the pad on and angle and move fast with high rpm`s you will see the hologram effect. When you flaten the pad and slow down on the rpm`s you will see them disapear. Most production line detailer dont go far enough, the last step thats why you see those holagrams.

    http://www.washman.biz/pictures
    Easy money this detailing stuff

  7. #22

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    632
    Post Thanks / Like
    About a month ago, I was trained by a pro how to use the rotary, and I`ve been practicing ever since. I`ve gotten pretty good at it-- no more splattering, sputtering, or slipping, just a smooth ride. In fact, I bought the Makita recently to aide my weekend business. I had a `92 Camaro that was in pretty bad shape and had no gloss, but a wool pad shined it up very well. After I finished, I smoked up the tires on the Camaro (with permission!). We went to a back alley/parking lot and I revved that American muscle up and slammed the gas. I accelerated to about 60 mph and then stopped and took a look behind me-- beautiful gray smoke. When the smoke cleared, I admired my long, parrarel lines of tire rubber on the pavement. Oh yeah, the rotary! The car looked great, and I feel very comfortable with a wool pad after a couple weeks with a lot of practice. I haven`t left any buffer marks, burns, or bad swirls yet, so I think I`m doing ok. The key to a great finish is the right combination of pads and chemicals, and a slow, steady pace at under 2000 RPM. If you keep the pad flat and moving, you will not hurt the car.
    -Chuckmotor
    Likes mahayanaeka liked this post

  8. #23

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,155
    Post Thanks / Like
    Great tips Chuck...



    Question... what do you do on tight painted panels like in between the bumper and the taillight, under emblems, etc where the painted surface is small (about 3-4")?



    How about bumpers? The areas on a bumper where it`s ridged, gapped (for air passage like grilles), etc that are painted? Do you do those by hand instead?

  9. #24

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    369
    Post Thanks / Like
    THe buffer should aways be on the move. If it skips you may have to recenter the pad on the adapter so the pad spins in a circle. Also, try more product to load the pad. Never run the machnine on a dry surface.

    Dont think about burning the paint. Just remember that a clear coat is very hard and will not burn easily. As long as you are using the right products of course, ie. cc compounds, and high speed polishes.

    Finally, make it a point to be more carefull around edges like door handles, wings, mirrors, where the panels end and a new one begins, and moldings. Anything plastic or rubber needs to be taped off.



    Ryan

  10. #25

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    632
    Post Thanks / Like
    Originally posted by theveed

    Great tips Chuck...



    Question... what do you do on tight painted panels like in between the bumper and the taillight, under emblems, etc where the painted surface is small (about 3-4")?



    How about bumpers? The areas on a bumper where it`s ridged, gapped (for air passage like grilles), etc that are painted? Do you do those by hand instead?


    Sometimes you will have to tilt the buffer in order to get the curves and small areas. Funny you should ask, because today I did a car today that was ridged at the bottom side panels. I slowed down the buffer and moved the buffer with the curves. Sometimes, you`ll have to get the tiny spots by hand. I`ve had to resort to that several times. These machines are not as dangerous as I thought. Before I grabbed a rotary for the first time, I had this image of the clear coat getting zapped away. You just have to be concious of what you`re doing and use some common sense, and everything will be fine. Like most things, the only way to really learn is to practice and practice until it becomes second nature. It seems odd and clunky at first, but after a while, it won`t skip or jump.
    -Chuckmotor

  11. #26

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,155
    Post Thanks / Like
    How slow do you on on edges/small areas?



    I have to hit the gym too... hehe... the buffer feels 3x heavier after a day`s work...

  12. #27

    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    western NC
    Posts
    362
    Post Thanks / Like
    I flick the switch around edges and handles. Good to see you carwasher Jabo vw

  13. #28

    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Cincinnati, OH
    Posts
    4,341
    Post Thanks / Like
    Edges sould be done FIRST. When you start a panel you should cut in the edges first thing. For edges use a very low speed and a 3 degree angle.
    Taking my signature to it`s MAXIMUM POTENTIAL

  14. #29

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    7
    Post Thanks / Like
    Originally posted by Ryan



    Dont think about burning the paint. Just remember that a clear coat is very hard and will not burn easily. As long as you are using the right products of course, ie. cc compounds, and high speed polishes.





    Ryan




    The clear coat in not any harder than paint, infact it is paint and it`s not hard to burn through. Infact all it takes is one wrong move in the wrong spot and you will be paying bucks for a panel to be painted.
    Easy money this detailing stuff

  15. #30

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    7
    Post Thanks / Like
    Originally posted by ShowroomLincoln

    Edges sould be done FIRST. When you start a panel you should cut in the edges first thing. For edges use a very low speed and a 3 degree angle.




    you could ad that you should position your buffer so the pad is buffing off the edge instead of on the edge.
    Easy money this detailing stuff

 

 
Page 2 of 19 FirstFirst 12345678910111213141516 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. FLEX rotary usage...
    By Flatfour in forum Machine Polishing & Sanding
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-11-2005, 02:48 PM
  2. Rotary Usage
    By Nickshades in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-01-2004, 04:36 PM
  3. woo-hoo! Rotary usage
    By scottabir in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-29-2004, 03:52 PM
  4. (rotary usage) pad flat or not ?
    By chip douglas in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-09-2003, 07:10 PM
  5. rotary usage --> pad flat or not ?
    By chip douglas in forum Auto Detailing 101
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-09-2003, 09:17 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •