Porter Cable XP Sanding & Kevin Brown Method

[rmccall6]

I purchased the Atmos Klear scentless deodorizer, which by the way is incredible. When was detailing a freinds BMW 850, yes, the kind of "excuse me, I seem to have moisened my undergarmets" kind of car. While he tried to keep it in top noth shape by having it detailed constantly, (unfortunately by a crapy detailer, who aperantely was on his cell phone while using a rotary!), the AC inevitably developed a moldy musty smell. You are suposed to turn the recurculate button on, and spray the Atmosklear de-odorizer into the air intake while running the AC for a few minutes. I was a little unsure about where this usually is. Is it DIRECTLY under the window where the wipers are, on the top of the hood near the windsheald where there are a bunch of openings, or on the front of the car? Thanks alot. -Brad Hayward

[Brad B]

It`s usually at the base of the windshield (sometimes under the hood in the recessed well). Turn the blower on and listen closely from the outside of the car. You will hear it there.

[David Fermani]

I?ve been wanting to try out some DA sanding with my new Porter Cable XP and test the infamous Kevin Brown Method to remove the marring. I?ve been faithfully using the KBM for a few months and love the way it carefully levels paint and creates substantial amounts of gloss all in one. I?ve heard some people warn of electrocution using water with an electric DA, some say that the PC?s throw is too long. I thought I?d give it try on a complete detail scheduled on this 04 Saab 9-3 and who`s paint was in very poor shape. The owner was seriously considering repainting it and gave me the go ahead to do whatever I wanted to the paint.

Befores:






I really wanted to use 3M 1500 Trizact, but realized I only had regular 1500 grit. I had did have a bunch of 3000 Trizact so I felt confident that any heavy sanding marks from the non-Trizact 1500 would easily be refined by following with 3000.



After carefully prepping the surface to insure that all topical contaminants were removed to facilitate safer sanding, I taped the edges with 3M ? inch painter?s tape. I wanted to stay as far away from the edges as possible to avoid strike through.

I then lubed the surface with an ONR clay lube mixture:



And then some lube on the sandpaper. I chose to do this wet, but it can also be done dry.



Set the speed between 3 & 4:



Final sanded = 1500 >>> 3000 Trizact:





Initial priming of the LC/CMA Orange Flat pad with Meg?s M105:








1 pass with M105 cleaned up all the sand scratches & left the finish with a decent amount of gloss. (I was able to work ? the trunk in 1 pass)












Sun Shots after 105. Definitely pad micromarring, but not bad results after 1 easy pass.






Here?s after Meg?s 205 via LC/CMA White Flat pad:

[imported_Luster]

David, amazing results considering what you started with! Looks like a new paint job!!!

I am also a subscriber and firm believer in the KBM. Since first using the method, I`ve never looked back.

Thanks for the write-up and documentation.:biggrin:

[Old Pirate]

Great write-up and pictures David on the KBM method. Lots of folks will be looking at these!

[imported_User Name]

Holy crap that is a great thread!

Well done David! This is such fantastic work with amazing pictures, I almost* feel as though I would try something like this myself.
























*Almost in my case really means "not a chance in hell I would try that".

[imported_Flash Gordon]

Wow, I`m very impressed David. What a tremendous turn-a-round

I may have to get a P/C now

[Paul Sparks]

Looks great David. It`s nice to have as they say " a guinea pig" to test out an idea. Any idea how much paint was left after this process.Wanted to do this a few times but never pulled the trigger.

` ` Paul S

[MB Fan]

Really, that is just amazing! Thanks for writing this up and sharing your expertise.

[imported_broker99]

WOW great turn around. That truck lid looks like a mirror. KBM keeps getting better.

[gmblack3]

Great work David and thanks for taking the time to share!

Have you tried the surbuf pads yet?

You should prime the entire face of the pad. :thumbup:

[Street Dreams]

Yea that`ll do. Very impressive results, its amazing how in the past few months we are learning to correct so much more using so much less. Big thanks to KB for the innovation!

[Todd@RUPES]

Great job David.

We have seen pro`s and experts on other forms (as well as the manufacturers) themselves say that using too long of a stroke will include pig tails.

Kevin can explain it much better then I can, but it isn`t true per say. A longer stroke will induce the pad to spin faster because of inertia which will `tighten` the curly cue pattern of movement which can cause pig tails, but this can be accounted for by using slight pressure and a lower speed.

A longer stroke actually helps keep the area being sanded `cleaner` by removing material and any detached abrasives from the area. How conclusive is Kevin`s findings on stroke in sanding, I believe that one manufacturer is going to reword their statement to conclude that stroke is not responsible for an increased risk in pig-tailing.

Congrats on giving that car a new paint job and doing two days worth of work in one. DA sanding, when done right, is really unbeatable in precise leveling ability and defect removal. That car looks amazing now!

Obviously Kevin can explain much better then I, but this man in a genius with a capital `G` and his polishing knowledge is really the tip of the iceberg.

[Michael Stoops]

Very, very nicely done!!

[bmw5541]

Absolutely awesome job!:thumbup::hurray:

It really is amazing what you can do with a pc and a skilled detailer like yourself.

Thanks for sharing this with us.