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  1. #16
    William_Wallace's Avatar
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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Try to find a comfortable cutting face. Because the machine cannot be perfectly flat or itís a beast the tilt I use is very slight maybe 10 degrees. Also donít use 7 inch pads I think you have that covered. I also use soft backing plate. Iím usually 1200-1700 for cutting. I have a makita.

    I also use the extension with 2 inch pad of wool for post spot correction after to sanding.

    I donít think you need to be a Jedi to use one But you also cannot fall asleep behind the wheel like when using a DA and doing a cross hatch for hours.

  2. #17
    rlmccarty2000's Avatar
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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Great thread. I tried starting a rotary thread 6 months or so ago without much success. I bought the new Rupes rotary and have not used it much at all unfortunately. I want to get the Rupes rotary pads and their polishes and give them a try. Rupes rotary polishes are supposed to have more oils to cut down on buffer trails and haze. I have tried Rupes wool pads on both the rotary and the 15 and have had great results. I bought the rotary for heavy correction and jeweling, I just haven’t had much time to attempt either (also for headlight correction).

  3. #18

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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Just an FYI, at a recent Roadshow I used the Rupes MK3 15mm, which I was in the market to buy, back to back with The Flex XFE and Griot`s (I have a Boss 21 already). I actually found I liked the other 2 better, and with the crazy Warranty the Boss is hard to beat, plus it is cheaper than the Rupes. In the end I went with the Flex XFE. I really liked the feel of the machine over the Rupes. Good luck

  4. #19

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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    considering I own 2 flex machines currently (3401 and PE14) I am highly interested in the XFE7-15 but I cant find any solid reviews or use videos of it. And I keep reading about the head getting hot and with the proper technique for that style polisher my hand would be directly where that heat is coming from. How is the heat around the head where you hold it. How is it on contours? Does it stall easy I would prefer the flex as it has more power and higher OPM rate than any of the rupes offerings
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  5. #20
    Dan's Avatar
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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Back when people were using rotaries for finishing, all the products filled really well. I`m just a hobbyist, and while I could finish it down well with a rotary, it is just way faster with a DA. As thin as paint is and as good as compounds are, I can`t find a single reason to drag out my rotary. Add in the fact that most new cars are under 100 microns, a rotary will obliterate that with a modern compound.

  6. #21
    Dr Oldz's Avatar
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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkThrottle View Post
    that`s going to be my plan of attack... but can I effectively cut at 600 rpm on my pe14 as that is the lowest speed

    yes you can effectively cut at 600 RPM. Itís what I would suggest. Higher RPMs create more heat and heat is the enemy.
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  7. #22
    Mr. Slick's Avatar
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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Now that I got my hands on ďThe MinigunĒ (rotary polisher) I think itís faster to start with wool or cutting pad with a modern compound, then finish with an orbital with a polishing pad and light polish. Other steps if necessary. I got the Milwaukee m18 cordless and love it.


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  8. #23

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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Oldz View Post
    yes you can effectively cut at 600 RPM. Itís what I would suggest. Higher RPMs create more heat and heat is the enemy.
    Yes that I understand very well but I figured if I increased machine speed I would use less pressure and increase arm movement to balance out the additional speed


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  9. #24
    Dr Oldz's Avatar
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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkThrottle View Post
    Yes that I understand very well but I figured if I increased machine speed I would use less pressure and increase arm movement to balance out the additional speed


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    Why do you want to increase machine speed? Your just learning the rotary so be patient and keep it slow. Less chance for mistakes or burn thru.

  10. #25

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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Heh heh....every time I read "..burn through.." it makes me cringe; I hope nobody here comes within spittin` distance of such a severe oops! I worry about people taking off mere microns.

    DarkThrottle- I`ve never run a rotary that slowly unless trying to Finish with it, and/but you oughta be fine at that speed. Yes, it will still cut, and as long as you don`t need more speed to break a product down (those days are mostly behind us...I think?!?) there shouldn`t be any problems.

    You`re on the right track thinking about arm movements/etc. One of the biggest things is just avoiding letting the machine stay in one place for too long, like at the end of each "arm-movement stroke" (give thought to how you`ll change direction each time), and of course you oughta keep it moving at *all* times no matter what. (Those who get a lot more aggressive might read that and think "well that`s how he`s avoided doing damage", might even think I`m too conservative, but IMO *nothing* is more important than not doing damage..ever).

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan
    ..most new cars are under 100 microns..
    Note that 100 microns is a *LOT* more than was on my last Mazda (an `01, it was around 3-point-oh-something mils in most places), and that`s in the places they actually clearcoated.

  11. #26

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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Iím picking up a hood from a challenger today so Iím going to do some wet sanding, severe scuffing, medium scuffing and use the rotary and learn how to do it also going to purposely burn thru some things at different speeds to see how long it takes for heat to build up and etc so I can physically experience it to know how to avoid it


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  12. #27
    Mr. Slick's Avatar
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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkThrottle View Post
    Iím picking up a hood from a challenger today so Iím going to do some wet sanding, severe scuffing, medium scuffing and use the rotary and learn how to do it also going to purposely burn thru some things at different speeds to see how long it takes for heat to build up and etc so I can physically experience it to know how to avoid it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Best way to learn! Make a video and share! That would be interesting to watch


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  13. #28

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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    Its like anything else-- if your going to get real good @ anything, your going to need time on the machine-- practice. Some people need more than others, some are just naturals at whatever specific skill they have. I believe for the absolute best finish a rotary is the tool to use. These new machines ( DA`s) are for less experienced /skilled people that can give them a tool to do a high quality job will less risk . I have a guy that does my body /paint work for me when I need it-- all he owns is a big old ( and i mean old ) rotary-- I would put him up against anyone on any finish ,--anyone, even Todd Helm (Mr. Rotary ) How many folks think that they can put a better finish with a DA than Todd with a rotary??

  14. #29

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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    well I have quite a few things to use the new tool on. I just acquired a 2014 Challenger hood in red for a practice panel, I`m going to do a full correction and ceramic coating on my moms Blue 2014 Toyota Camry that`s been severely neglected over the last few years, and my GFs white 2018 Jeep Patriot its white but it has little to no depth looking forward to getting to put this machine thru its paces. I have the lake country pads extension kit , 3 in bp, 5 in bp and a slew of pads and Menzerna compounds and polishes..im going to hone in on a technique in the 40 or so hours ill put in on those 3 things alone.. then I have my race bike, my truck, and 4 other family Cars that have never seen correction I can polish as well.
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  15. #30

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    Re: New Rotary User Help

    DarkThrottle- Since "burning through" is *way* past the point of "too much", I`d get an ETG and learn how to tell..or at least guesstimate... how much paint you`re taking off. It`s all about not going a few microns too far and with all the relevant variables (amount of paint, ease of cut, panel contours factoring in..and that`s just the car, there`s still the machine/pad/product to consider) there`s a lot to consider.

    I know I`m a broken-record on this topic, but I see *SO MANY* cars with cc failure that`s *obviously* the result of over-correction. I can often tell just how they did the buffing and even guess why those areas "needed" so much work to "fix" (scare-quotes intentional as only a paintgun can fix such damage).

    How many microns of clear are on a `14 Camry? I simply don`t know, but I`d *need to* before I tried to correct one in a major way. Remember that the UV Resistance (which is basically the *functional* purpose of clearcoat) is all in the top few microns, rather than being uniform from the top to the basecoat. E.g., to use an example I`m familiar with, you might start with 4.5 mils of clear on a typical Ford Crown Victoria, but if you remove more than ~0.66mils the paint will fail under UV exposure (failure-specs per Ford and they oughta know).

    OK, enough of my dire warnings What color blue is that Camry? Light blue metallic or darker?

    The white Patriot will be interesting, spotting holograms on white can be a good test of your lighting (and inspection skills ). That`ll look *really* great once it`s all shined up! (I for one do *not* find white boring )

 

 
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