Polisher for Novice...

[Lonnie]

This seems to be THE most re-occuring question in this forum: What polishing/buffing machine should I buy?
There are now five types of machines to choose from:
1) Rotary
2) Long-throw dual action (15mm and 21mm)
3) Forced rotation
4) The Cyclo (I put it here because it is a unique counter-spinning random orbital (NOT a rotary) with dual pads)
5) LC Power Tool`s User-Determined Orbital Stroke (UDOS) Please see thread:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/machi...tml?highlight=

The last one is kinda the one I am waiting on, BUT some design changes to include a rotary action has delayed its production and release date to late August/early September of this year. Still no word or "info leaks" if it will actually happen or if it is even in beta-testing (field testing of prototypes by actual detailers/users for feed back and durability.)

For myself as a hobbyist, one of the most important factors is price. I do not have tons of money to spend on my detailing hobby. The other is skill level to operate the machine. I lean towards a rotary because it can do so much in a short time and has the versatility of attaching various-sized backing plates from 3" to 6" , BUT does require a learning curve and experience/practice to properly us it.

So any time I see these thread topics on new machines or the re-occuring one on suggestions for polishing machine, they are read with great interest. I REALLY appreciate the feedback that fellow Autopians give on this subject.

[Accumulator]

Lonnie- Here I go again, playing Copy Editor! Hope you don`t mind...

4) The Cyclo (I put it here because it is a unique counter-spinning rotary with dual pads)

It`s a Twin Headed *Random Orbital*, not a rotary

[DBAILEY]

Wouldn`t tick marks when applying LSP mean your arm movement is too fast?

[Accumulator]

I’ve always gotten super fine micro tic marks in the paint, whenever I have tried to apply a wax or sealant with a long throw

-AND-

Wouldn`t tick marks when applying LSP mean your arm movement is too fast?

I`ve been wondering about this topic...

DISCLAIMER: I`ve never applied LSP via a long-throw, although I`ve done it countless times with a Cyclo (I don`t really if it`s a "long-throw" no matter what Rupes says..).

I have zero doubt that TheMeanGreen knows what he`s doing

That said, *IMO*, LSPing shouldn`t result in tic marks (or any other kind of marring) with any polisher/method. The only ways I can think of it happening are:

-Contaminated pad or surface (yeah..."duh!")
-overly harsh LSPing pad
-LSP that gets harder than the paint when it dries

I bet we can assume that TheMeanGreen didn`t have contamination issues, so I`d discount that possibility.

I`m equally confident that he used an appropriate pad.

I don`t work on stupid-soft paint, so that could be it (variation on the third guess).

Otherwise, I find it both interesting and baffling! OK, I don`t try too many LSPs, so there are countless ones that could do stuff I don`t experience, like drying into something that`s harder than the paint.

But I still think it`s odd...I`ve overworked different LSPs via Cyclo plenty of times with zero micromarring. I`ve buffed dried LSPs off via Cyclo with no-nap/suede-style MF bonnets (also via Cyclo), and that`s never done it either.

SO..I`m hoping somebody will see this post and offer some suggestions, inquiring minds want to know...I have no intention of LSPing via my BOSS15, but it bugs me that I don`t have a ready explanation!

TheMeanGreen- Which LSPs did that for you? I`m guessing (again!) that they were ones I haven`t tried.

[Swanicyouth]

The 8mm DA is so much more versatile than any large stroke machine. You can use any pad or BP with it from 3-6" any probably other sizes as well. You can get a machine that will be next to impossible to stall, too.

Also, you can use it for sanding stuff, if you happen to be into refinishing furniture like me. Or, applying LSPs. You can remove virtually any defect that can be removed with a GG6 as well and finishing is easy too.

You could get a large stroke and a dedicated 3" polisher @ significantly increased cost. Only benefit to that route is it may save you some time. If you`re just doing this as a hobby, no real need - and this is coming from someone who has the whole Rupes system & the 15.



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[DBAILEY]

I agree. It kills me when I see people responding to `Which first polisher should I get` posts telling them to get a 15mm or 21mm machine. If you only have one machine then it should be the most versatile one like a GG6.

I have never used a longthrow to apply LSP`s either. Only a 8mm machine.

If your arm movements are too quick then the orbits won`t be loopy and become more of a go-stop-change direction-go movement that creates a sharp tick mark at the point it changes direction. Kind of like making the pad walk/skip a bit because your moving too fast. I see videos of people hauling ass applying LSP with a DA all the time. Turn the speed down and be more deliberate with your arm movements.

[Accumulator]

It kills me when I see people responding to `Which first polisher should I get` posts telling them to get a 15mm or 21mm machine. If you only have one machine then it should be the most versatile one like a GG6..

I dunno...I`d rather do without my GG6 than my more aggressive ROs, but that`s just me, doing my vehicles. It`s OK for spot-correction (with 3" pads), but I`d sure hate to do a whole vehicle with it (and I`ve used it with M101/MF Cutting Disks). My Rupes Mini isn`t much, if any, better..OK for little stuff, but for serious correction of a whole panel I`d want something else.

If your arm movements are too quick then the orbits won`t be loopy and become more of a go-stop-change direction-go movement that creates a sharp tick mark at the point it changes direction. Kind of like making the pad walk/skip a bit because your moving too fast. I see videos of people hauling ass applying LSP with a DA all the time. Turn the speed down and be more deliberate with your arm movements.

I`ve heard that (the tic-mark micromarring) can happen with some abrasives, but I still don`t see how it could happen with LSPs, at least not with the ones I use. I`m wracking my brain trying to remember what`s gone wrong when LSPing via machine..but I can`t recall a single instance of actually marring paint. I`ve really overworked M16 by machine, and that was sure a learning experience but it was just "wax stuck to the paint" that was a PIA to buff off.

Heh heh, moving so fast that the pad *skips*?!? Gee, don`t people immediately realize that something`s wrong? IMO that`s simply, uhm...user error (to be polite), no matter what`s being done. Guess that just never occurred to me.

You *can`t* turn my Cyclos down (they`re the old Model 5s), they`re always running fast, but they`re great for LSPing.

Eh, I bet I`ve done OK because my arm movements have never (really) been all that fast. Another case of my not thinking of potential problems because, well...the stuff some people do just never occurs to me.

[Accumulator]

DBAILEY- My last post sounded more argumentative than I intended, sure not against buying the most versatile machine if only buying one, and I don`t really disagree with your recommendation. Nobody`s gonna actually *go wrong* buying the GG6, that`s for sure.

I gotta admit I`m completely baffled by the "tic marks from LSPing"!